arghx

iTrader: (3)

I just got back from the dyno and damn I need a beer... this car is making more power than a stock Turbo II!

Relevant mods:

Engine:

- Street ported Series 4 motor (RacingBeat template), Turbo II intermediate housing, Rotary Aviation seals, timing advanced

Intake:

- K&N cone filter with cold air box, ported intake manifold and TB mod, pineapple port sleeves, auxilary ports wired open

Exhaust:

- RacingBeat collected header, straight mid-pipe,
2.5" RacingBeat dual exhaust

Fuel upgrades:

- 3rd gen fuel pump, 550cc secondary injectors, Apex'i SAFC


Car still has s4 rotors and intake manifold. I'd like to give props to my buddy Smoken' on this forum, the previous owner of the car, who built the engine and should get about 80% of the credit.

Other notes on the mods: I know my ports are wired open, and I'm in the process of fixing that right now with an rpm switch and electronic Corvette smog pump. The 550cc injectors were put in there to address a lean condition up top that I had encountered on my very first dyno run (157rwhp on a dynapack), which I don't have scanned and isn't attached. They helped somewhat, but I think it's either a fuel pressure issue or just the fact that I have the stock ECU in there. I set my SAFC to +20% at 7000rpm and it still won't take anymore fuel.

Notes on the dyno graph:

1. The first pull was taken back in July when my car was really running like **** and I just didn't realize it. Auxilary ports were stuck closed. I had a resonator and a cat in to help quiet down my old hellishly loud N1 exhaust system. I had leaky injectors and fouled plugs, so major ignition breakup.

2. The second pull was the same day, but as you can see, wiring open the ports gave me about 20 more horsepower and shifted the torque curve greatly.

3. Today's pull was with clean injectors, new plugs and wires, racingbeat catback, and a straight midpipe replacing the resonator and the cat. Notice how uncorked all that bullshit from the exhaust gave me about 20 more lb/ft of torque. This time the pulls were done in 3rd, mainly because I read Kahren recommending it somewhere.


Overall I'm very pleased with today's results and I don't plan to do anymore power mods such as nitrous until I retire this as a daily driver, which could be a while.

SevenDreamz

Nice...props To Ya...she Should Move Pretty Well Puttin Down Those Numbers....

Kahren

iTrader: (13)

not bad, its going lean up top if you bring the AF down under 13:1 the power should go up to ~180. it looks like you are running too much timing advance and getting break up. are you on 87 octane?

ddub

Racing Beat has a 6 port template? News to me... never seen it on their site.

Dom_C

Looks good man! Have you considered going with a megasquirt or something? i'm sure your car would benefit very much from it. Oh and you may be making more HP than a stock T2 but lacking the torque a bit Sounds like an awesome car though, good job!

ddub

Oh yah and fix your car before you blow it

Too lean, got some nasty break up going on. Something isn't set up right there.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

He said his 02 sensor tends to read leaner than one installed in a bung--like the bung will read 11:1 and his will read about 12:1 . It should be fine. It won't take anymore fuel up top due to either a fuel pressure problem or just the fact that I have the stock ECU. I cranked the SAFC up to +20% on my 550 secondaries and it just doesn't like to richen up. I've wound the thing out a bunch of times and it's never detonated so I'm not too worried.

Yeah the timing may actually be too far advanced. It was set right about a year ago when I took it to a different dyno and I didn't have any ignition problems then. I run 87 octane.

ddub

I'm also talking about the ignition breakup. Running too lean doesn't cause ignition breakup, something else is wrong.

Put your timing back to stock until you can tune better, at least that's what I would do.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I'm gonna set the timing back to stock.

Kahren, do you think my lean condition up top is due to stock ECU or maybe a fuel pressure problem? I set the SAFC to +20% and it still ran a bit lean, and I've got 550 secondaries in there.

Kahren

iTrader: (13)

there is no way it should still be running lean, there is something wrong. have you ever changed teh fuel filter? if not it is a really good idea to do so. make sure your fuel pump is not dying. and check the afm to see if there is nothing wrong with that either. if the afm is busted it could not meter the intake air properly and give the wrong amoutn of fuel. but it sounds like either the fuel filter is cloged or the fuel pump is not putting out enouf pressure. since you put a new fuel pump in check the wire connections and test the voltage with a voltmeter. maybe even go inside teh gas tank and check to make sure the hose from the pump to the metal pickup tube is secured properly if you used one that is.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I had a T2 fuel pump in there the first time I dynoed it a year ago (sheet not posted) and it was running lean then. The FD pump was an attempt to correct the lean condition, as my friend with an FD just had one lying around and gave it to me for free. The injectors were also my attempt to richen it up. The fuel filter was changed about 2000 miles ago.

As far as the AFM, well it's tilted up slightly for to fit the cold air box I bought, which doesn't fit perfectly I admit. I don't think that made much of a difference though because when I dynoed it last year I had no cold air box, the AFM was perfectly level, and it was still running lean.

I think I've ruled out everything but fuel pressure, or at least it seems that way. I guess the fuel pump voltage could be something to check. I thought that was only a problem if you're really flowing a whole bunch of fuel though... for like 200+whp Turbo IIs and stuff.

Kahren

iTrader: (13)

voltage can matter for even low hp application. it needs to get atelst 12v at wot to have some decent pressure. if you donthave a gauge on the fuel rail somwhere i would maybe invest in that they are only about 10-20 bucks. if the voltage turns out to be fine i would deff get a gauge to make sure the pressure is where its supposed to be. another thing to think about is, your chart shows some ignition breakup that could be a ground issue also...which in turn can cause other electircal problems also.

bloodlinefc

i c how u got 20 more horses from the aux ports. my s4 n/a is modded in some of the same ways that urs is w/out the fuel mods an my aux ports are wired open and it gives me a huge boost in the power that u can feel while ur driving.im gunna be headded to the dyno soon so i will post the results w/ N20 and than w/out it

bloodlinefc

hey hows ur supra as a beater?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Wired open auxilary ports suck. They're just way better than having them stuck closed from a performance perspective. My auxilary ports have never worked since I've owned the car, and I'm still trying to get this corvette smog pump working. I think I have a bad relay or something. When my ports were stuck closed the car actually felt a lot better in 5th gear and stuff... I'd really like to get the 6PI system working as Mazda intended it. It really feels anemic around town with the ports open all the time.

The Supra is an awesome beater now... not so much when I got it, because I had to fix a bunch of **** that the previous owner neglected. It's got all the torque that my N/A 7 lacks. It's waaaaay slower though obviously, even though I put an intake and custom exhaust on it. I ran them on the highway and I think I put 6 carlengths on it from a 70-100 roll.

I regularly do burnouts, donuts, and all sorts of abusive **** that I would never do in my 7 because I don't give a **** about the Wal Mart tires. I haven't had any headgasket issues and the motor was rebuilt like 15k miles ago. The body isn't in the best shape though and it has a number of annoying electrical problems. For the money it's an awesome car, since it's not my daily.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I came very close to spraying the car recently... I bought the kit and everything. I just decided that I'd probably bust the drivetrain and I needed it to be a reliable daily driver.

bloodlinefc

lol ive owned almost all the old school cars and i wan t a supra too. but i know the 7 is faster. an a 85 300zx blew up(lol) that wasnt a good beatre

bloodlinefc

my 7 is my daily driver but i want more power outta it... how much was the fd fuel pump?
and how much hp can the stock n/a ecu handle?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

You won't need an FD fuel pump. A T2 will do just fine. Check the "beefy N/A" thread in the archives.

Now here's another question for Kahren or anybody else. When I replaced my wires, I just used some carquest 7mm replacement ****... would I benefit from like 8.5mm Accel or Magnecore wires? Would that help my breakup? Or is it just the the timing you think? I just think it's weird that I'm getting breakup but when I set my timing at the dyno last year it had no problem, and that was with the old worn out wires.

jkimbro

iTrader: (3)

if you wires are bad, new ones will help. But if your 7mm's are in decent shape, you probably won't see much difference by going to an 8.5mm wire set.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Alright. The 7mm's are new... they have a couple thousand miles on them. I'll just mess with the timing.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

It'll only bust if you can't drive (or have super large shot).

Put the timing back to stock and you'll be neat :O.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

The fuel pump voltage is fine and I double checked the fuel lines on the fuel pump. I guess that means I need a new fuel pressure regulator right? Is there a way to check fuel that isn't a huge pain in the ***?

spot_skater

Regarding your loss of fuel up top, you should really check the fuel pressure. That should have been the number one thing you checked before you started installing new parts. I'm not sure if the rail on these cars has a tap for a pressure gauge, but anywhere before the regulator will give you a good pressure reading (make sure you tap the feed line, not the return). If it is low, there's a good chance the regulator has **** the bed, and if it's not the regulator than your fuel pump has taken a ****, which I doubt considering you've swapped them out for a TII pump AND an FD pump. Also check the lines for any kinks or any distortion of any sort.

Easiest way to check fuel pressure is to install the guage as I mentioned above. Key on engine off, check the gauge. The fuel pump should turn on for 2 seconds. Check the gauge, see if the pressure falls off. If it falls off from spec you've got a bad regulator (most likely). Or you've got a bad check valve in the pump (highly doubt it). OR you MAY have a problem in the return line somewhere...perhaps a leak, which would only be present with the engine running (if the regulator is in good shape).

PLEASE make sure you keep it rich, especailly up top. You don't want to blow that motor, man... I mean 172 RWHP on an S4 NA is impressive! Keep those AFR's below 13.5 all around, just to be safe. I hope to make some numbers like those when I get my S4 tuned, but I doubt it considering I'm on stock ports...

PROPS to you for making good numbers! And listen to what Kahren and the others are saying, I think I read somewhere that he's getting close to 200 RWHP on his NA...but I could be wrong.

Cheers!

arghx

iTrader: (3)

^ Thanks for the input. I see now that my Haynes manual has a procedure for checking the fuel pressure. I presume I can get a gauge at autozone or something. Now are you sure that the results of this test will show if it's actually losing fuel pressure at 7000 rpm WOT ?