rx7 TurboII 317 hp at 13 psi stock port motor built by Rick Engman at mazmart BNR stage 2 turbo 720 injector haltech platinum sport1000 front mount intercooler dyno tuned by me

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AcLgwXAISqc

 

Nice job, Hobbie. Bryan told me about it.

B

 

At 13 psi i had 16 degrees on a timing felt like i could give it more but the temperature outside with 91 degrees 80 percent humidity so i stop right there

 

Nice pull and numbers... solid torque and hp just keeps climbing, I bet that's a fun ride! Any pics of the engine bay?

 

thanks it is a blast to drive just can't keep the wheels to stick to the ground this is the first time I used a haltech to tune and I am loving it don't know how I lived without it before it only took 10 pulls to tune the car

here's a picture of under the hood picture was talking when I had the rtek2.1

 

nice numbers.

 

thanks a lot of work has went into this car are still a lot more to do

 

Any changes or new numbers to your setup?? I am trying to make 350whp and 300tq with the same turbo at 15 psi so i am liking what i see here so far

 

I'm sure that I can get 350 out of it I am going to go back when it starts cooling down i was very conservative on the timing and when i go back i m going to log the exhaust temperature hopefully i could give it more timing

 

Eventually you should be able to set up your IAT correction table so that it will run those extra couple degrees when it's cooler outside but you will stay safe in this kind of hot weather.

 

that's a good idea I do have it set up in the higher temperature to take away timing but I never thought of giving some timing in the lower temperatures
by the way I have read a lot of your posts and learned a lot from reading your stuff
I have also used one of your timing tables on the rtek system and the car ran great with it so I think you

 

you got it built by the best rotary engine builder in the world.

 

yes he is the best in the world I am going to try to get him to build me a another engine a 13b rew for big horse power trying to get in the 600 club

 

HOw is your boost so stable with the BNR. I took a quick look at the PSI graph and damn.. SOLID!!

 

is it hard to use the platnum sport
are you using the stock map
what are you using for primarys and secondarys

did you install the sport

 

I believe that is a DynoCom dyno. Their plots are heavily smoothed. The size/resolution of the image also make it look smoother. If you ever play around with certain dyno software you would know what I mean. Here is a dyno sheet from a 2006 WRX using the same type of dyno:

 

Is that a setting in the software or does it always smooth out the graph readings? Wouldnt that be a bad thing by hiding/smoothing out the readings therefor hiding certain imperfections?

 

Too little smoothing and it becomes nearly unreadable. Less smoothing can also bump up the peak numbers a bit. Too much smoothing and you hide imperfections, but it is more aesthetically appealing. Most people don't know or think about smoothing. People assume the tuner (or the turbo or whatever) is really good when they see a smooth line. It's just another complication with dynos, and another reason to be skeptical of what you see on the internet.

Allow me to give some more concrete examples. In both the Dynojet and Dynocom software (which are available free online), the smoothing can be set from 0 to 5. Some software, like the Virtual Dyno "road dyno" software, has a higher range of settings, so smoothing can go up to like 15. On a Dynojet, the default smoothing setting is 0 and there is a slider bar on the main screen. On the Dynocom, the default smoothing setting is 4, and the option is changed in a pull-down menu. The Dynocom smoothing algorithm is more aggressive than Dynojet's.

This isn't a perfect comparison (some runs can be noisier than others), but here is a Dynocom plot with the default "4" smoothing:



Here is a Dynojet plot with a setting of "4" for smoothing:



So 99% of people seeing these curves are going to assume that the Dynocom plot, which is at the default smoothing setting, is cleaner-looking. That makes the tuner look good as well as the engine management, the parts installed, and the engine itself. But the reality is more complicated. Now like I said, every dyno and run could be different so some are going to be noisier than others. I don't want to post any more big pics but if you look in my attachments you can also see a comparison of Dynocom vs Dynojet on a setting of "1" for smoothing.

 

HOly crap.. On the first fraph of the attached thumbs. AT 3.5 rpms there is knock right?

then the smoothing out hides that knock on the second graph?

 

what kind of front mount are you using btw? and bov as well

power numbers look awesome for a stock port (it's a s4 block right?)

get the damn 1/4 mile times already

 

is it hard to use the platnum sport
are you using the stock map
what are you using for primarys and secondarys

did you install the sport

 

wow I toally forgot about this thread 720 injectors all the way around rick has built me a new motor should be on the dyno after break in it is not hard to use the platinum 1000 and I built my own map

 

Umm, maybe? You can't necessarily be sure just by looking at the dyno sheet alone, out of the full context of being there. Your typical chassis dyno produces noise, torque spikes, and lost tach signals all the time. It's up to the tuner to figure out if it's knock, a torque spike due to the dyno messing up, a torque dip due to insufficient timing or incorrect mixture, or whatever. Sometimes the way the car is strapped down has a big effect, or how well the dyno has been maintained

Maybe. Too much smoothing and you hide potential flaws in both what the engine is doing and noise from the dyno itself. Too little smoothing and the dyno plot is practically unreadable. Heavy smoothing definitely makes everything look pretty at the expense of a little bit lower numbers. As cynical as it sounds, most customers want a pretty dyno sheet and a high number more than anything else.

 

hey man ive got a T2 pretty much just like yours ive got the sport 1000 also havent installed it yet, should being doing the lil bit of wiring required tomarrow....i got the terminated harness so its mostly just plug and play....but let me know what you think of the sport 1000 and where did you get the base map from ive tried to load it from haltech site, i downloaded it and tried to open it with the haltech software open it and its just trying to tell me how to use the haltech rather than opening the base map to a edit screen...?!?! lol do i have to have it pluged to the ecu with power for it to show me whats up or what?

 

Those are good numbers.