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88 GTU turbo conversion went to the track

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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 03:43 PM
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88 GTU turbo conversion went to the track

Went to the track Friday night.

Here are some mods done.

-S5 Jspec engine rebuilt with S4 rotors and S4 intake plates.
-S5 rebuilt turbo
-Cleaned and tested 550's
-Walbro
-Aeromotive FPR set to static 55psi.
-unknown used TII clutch(capable of 300+tq though)
-TII Tranny /Mazdatrix hybrid driveshaft/na LSD rearend
-Apex BOV
-FC3S.org CF TII hood
-Koyo Radiator
-Racing beat 2.5 downpipe and presilencer
-Corksport 3inch single catback
-some generic 15 inch rims and some dunlop tires.

I dynoed at 180hp and 182tq @ Rearwheels back in December.

Car has no boost control method like stock S5's or S4 twin scroll. So it's natural boost increase with creep to go over stock wastegate pressure.


I only did 2 runs.

1st run was against a newer firebird with slicks and stickers all over(msd etc...)
I redlighted trying to get a good reaction.

60ft was bad 2.6
He got me off the line but I started to catch him. By the end I was next to him.
I pulled a 15.0 He pulled a 14.7
I had a mph trap speed of 98 he had like 94-95mph.


Second run was against a guy I met with a Viper GTS.
Well I didn't win but he didn't do great either(mid 13).

I dropped my 60 ft to 2.4
I kept the same MPH but pulled a 14.95.

I can probably drop the 60ft a little more but not bad for uncontrolled boost.
I tried look at the boost while running. It seemed to manage 7-8psi through most gears.

Once I port the wastegate I will put a boost controller on and run 10psi. SHoudl be good for dropping a few tenths off.
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Digi7ech
Went to the track Friday night.

Here are some mods done.

-S5 Jspec engine rebuilt with S4 rotors and S4 intake plates.
-S5 rebuilt turbo
-Cleaned and tested 550's
-Walbro
-Aeromotive FPR set to static 55psi.
-unknown used TII clutch(capable of 300+tq though)
-TII Tranny /Mazdatrix hybrid driveshaft/na LSD rearend
-Apex BOV
-FC3S.org CF TII hood
-Koyo Radiator
-Racing beat 2.5 downpipe and presilencer
-Corksport 3inch single catback
-some generic 15 inch rims and some dunlop tires.

I dynoed at 180hp and 182tq @ Rearwheels back in December.

Car has no boost control method like stock S5's or S4 twin scroll. So it's natural boost increase with creep to go over stock wastegate pressure.


I only did 2 runs.

1st run was against a newer firebird with slicks and stickers all over(msd etc...)
I redlighted trying to get a good reaction.

60ft was bad 2.6
He got me off the line but I started to catch him. By the end I was next to him.
I pulled a 15.0 He pulled a 14.7
I had a mph trap speed of 98 he had like 94-95mph.


Second run was against a guy I met with a Viper GTS.
Well I didn't win but he didn't do great either(mid 13).

I dropped my 60 ft to 2.4
I kept the same MPH but pulled a 14.95.

I can probably drop the 60ft a little more but not bad for uncontrolled boost.
I tried look at the boost while running. It seemed to manage 7-8psi through most gears.

Once I port the wastegate I will put a boost controller on and run 10psi. SHoudl be good for dropping a few tenths off.


14.9 seems kind of slow for a turbo car, my n/a should be running about a 14.5 or around there depending on how much more i upgrade it, but you should be hitting 13's on a turbo at least 14.1
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 06:43 PM
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Should and what time is really does are two seperate things.

My car when it was NA pull 17.0 and my 88 SE pull 17.4's.

NA's are really slow. I find it uncommon to see a NA FC in the 15's most of the time.

These runs were also done with no boost control so the turbo would make 5psi and then boost creep to anything above that(S5 hotside so better than a S4 wastegate). SO the runs aren't that bad for natural boost building.
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 06:47 PM
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Oh yeah.
Engine health has a huge factor in what it does.

My NA engines had 85k and 130k on them around the time of dragging.
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Old May 8, 2005 | 01:49 AM
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i must agree, you should be in the very low 14's. we have a big FC crew here and there isnt one tII that will run slower than a mid 14.. and that includes the ones that pretty much only have exhaust and are running 8 or 9psi. and tII's are heavy.
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Old May 8, 2005 | 02:03 AM
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TIIs arent that heavy, mine weighs 2580 right now with a full interior.
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Old May 8, 2005 | 02:58 PM
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N/A's not even in the 15's that ****. . . hahahahaha that's one shitty *** driver
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Old May 8, 2005 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Digi7ech
Should and what time is really does are two seperate things.

My car when it was NA pull 17.0 and my 88 SE pull 17.4's.

NA's are really slow. I find it uncommon to see a NA FC in the 15's most of the time.

These runs were also done with no boost control so the turbo would make 5psi and then boost creep to anything above that(S5 hotside so better than a S4 wastegate). SO the runs aren't that bad for natural boost building.
What did the boost creep to?
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Old May 9, 2005 | 02:24 PM
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It creeped to about 8-9psi I think. Kinda hard looking at that ,afr's,and Tach.

I just ported my wastegate so I do 5-6psi constant now and I only creep to about 7-8psi in 5th gear now. Just installed a boost controller and I have about 100 miles left on the break in of my Spec Stage 2 clutch.
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Old May 9, 2005 | 03:06 PM
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That is a good result porting the waste gate then.

What times are you looking to run with 10psi now that you can control it?
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Old May 9, 2005 | 08:09 PM
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No idea. I'm hoping to hit a mid 14. This is my daily driver so I'm not out to go blowing **** just yet.

Oh yeah. My car is also running 205x65xr15 tires.
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Old May 13, 2005 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by wtfdidusay82
14.9 seems kind of slow for a turbo car, my n/a should be running about a 14.5 or around there depending on how much more i upgrade it, but you should be hitting 13's on a turbo at least 14.1
Get a real time, then make a post. I thought a few cars of mine would be 13's easily, they were in the 15's.

My TII (when it was running)

Ran a 14.12 on a Majestic Stage 2 turbo, ported wastegate, intake with HKS filter, full 3" exhaust (2.5 each duals), wires, plugs, 16" Enkei's, short shifter, and a few other mods. I'm sure you'll be in that range when your done. Let the clutch break in and at 10psi, I'm sure a low 14 or a high 13 is in order.

Good luck!
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Old May 14, 2005 | 12:55 AM
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14's is quite alright for a TII, it's definatly NOT easy to get a n/a into the 14's. They're mid-low 16 cars stock. The TII running a 14 is pretty good. The 60ft times are horrible even for stock boost, you need to get those down to like 2.1 or 2.0.
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Old May 15, 2005 | 02:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Digi7ech
Should and what time is really does are two seperate things.

My car when it was NA pull 17.0 and my 88 SE pull 17.4's.

NA's are really slow. I find it uncommon to see a NA FC in the 15's most of the time.

These runs were also done with no boost control so the turbo would make 5psi and then boost creep to anything above that(S5 hotside so better than a S4 wastegate). SO the runs aren't that bad for natural boost building.
My miata neer stock pulld 15.8 in 1/4th
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Old May 16, 2005 | 06:53 AM
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Learn how to launch the car.
It's no excuse to be posting anything above a 2.2x 60' time consistently.


-Ted
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Old May 16, 2005 | 10:47 AM
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You might have a 12 second car but you better be a 12 second driver or you will be forced to use the "clutch was slipping" excuse that all the loud mouths use when they find out that a pro driver from the factory ran in that car is different from what they are capable of laying down. Good work Dig7ech and your times will improve with more practice runs.
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Old May 16, 2005 | 04:25 PM
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Bukwild, curious, what do you run at the track?
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Old May 17, 2005 | 10:59 AM
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Agreed with ted. My first time out to the track I pulled 2.2s and by the 6th and 7th run 2.0s are where I was at. And you will be amazed the amount of time that will drop off the 1/4. You should def be mid 14s or lower. I also think mid 14s for an na are a stretch. Mid 15s maybe with exhaust,intake,tb mod and a good launch. i think the only way to get into the low 14s is nitrous or porting
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Old May 17, 2005 | 02:33 PM
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I replied to your question but my post has been deleted since this morning?
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Old May 17, 2005 | 04:02 PM
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Yeah i know I can drop my 60ft.

I haven't drag raced in a long time.

Last time I did it on a weekly basis with my NA I ended up breaking my Diff mount. I do not want to go through that **** for a fourth time.
I also do not want to slip the clutch because I hate replacing items.

That's why I only ran twice and called it a night.

Lately I have been watching my boost since the controller went on Sunday.
1st is sluggish but 2nd and 3rd kick in strong.
I set the boost to 7-8psi. It creeps to about 9psi in 3rd/4th/5th.
I did see that in the higher RPMs it will drop down to around6-7psi.

whatwver though. I'm happy w/ my daily driver
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Old May 18, 2005 | 01:11 PM
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I used to run a supercharged LX 5.0. Light to light races on 6lbs of boost were easy wins. You can't beat a charged stang in a straight line from light to light on the street. I took it to the track a few times and at first I was in the 12's and once I got better at the trees I got deep into the 11's but the more I let air out of the tires and upped the boost the more stuff I broke. So I stopped bringing it to the strip and sold it later. My next car was my 88 vert. I did a complete t2 swap on it and had the motor rebuilt with preparation for running a big single. I will take it to the track a few times but these second gens really start to break every track day when you are running 20lbs of boost and beating the thing.
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Old May 18, 2005 | 05:59 PM
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Differential mounts are the first thing to go on the track(except the engine in some situations lol)

I've replaced 3 so far and do not want to do another. Dropping the subframe and working in 4 inches of clearance sucks.

Suspension upgrades may help prevent the diff breaking but they are just old so they're going to go sometime.
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Old May 19, 2005 | 03:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Digi7ech
Last time I did it on a weekly basis with my NA I ended up breaking my Diff mount. I do not want to go through that **** for a fourth time.
I also do not want to slip the clutch because I hate replacing items.
If you fear this sorta failure, then you can't expect fast times on babied starts.


-Ted
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Old May 19, 2005 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Digi7ech
Differential mounts are the first thing to go on the track(except the engine in some situations lol)

I've replaced 3 so far and do not want to do another. Dropping the subframe and working in 4 inches of clearance sucks.

Suspension upgrades may help prevent the diff breaking but they are just old so they're going to go sometime.
Ever thought of a solid diff mount? And then a pinion snubber in between the bottom of the car and the diff? Never have a problemt again... And they're cheap.
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