6 port turbo first timer
#1
6 port turbo first timer
S4 6 port turbo
hybrid S4 turbo
megasquirt
ID 1000 injectors
Full racing beat exhaust
synapse BOV
This was my 3rd run ever down the strip, first two were slower than this. somehow this was faster than any other run later in the night as well! My intake temps were up to 170*F I was nervous but it didnt give me any issues for all 9 passes.
I'd like to upload my log of a run and have someone look over it if they are interested!
Right lane
hybrid S4 turbo
megasquirt
ID 1000 injectors
Full racing beat exhaust
synapse BOV
This was my 3rd run ever down the strip, first two were slower than this. somehow this was faster than any other run later in the night as well! My intake temps were up to 170*F I was nervous but it didnt give me any issues for all 9 passes.
I'd like to upload my log of a run and have someone look over it if they are interested!
Right lane
#3
Trunk Ornament
iTrader: (11)
You can definitely get better results than that with a high compression 6 port turbo. (You might need to turn the boost down some too!) Did you buy the full version of Tuner Studio? If you put together a decent AFR map, it tunes the fuel map (VE map) for you, and it does a DAMN good job too. MIDNFauciUSN and I both use it (I'm sure others do as well) and we both agree it's probably the best $50 spent so far. I'm a non-believer in butt dyno results, but when it's "fast" before, then you can't hold your head off the seat afterwards, I'd call those results. A datalog of before and after show much better AFR's throughout the RPM range, which is something I was having trouble trying to pin down through the process of doing datalog runs followed by a subsequent bench tune.
Edit:
Holy CRAP! IAT of 170*!!! You definitely need to turn the boost down before you blow that ************ up!
Edit:
Holy CRAP! IAT of 170*!!! You definitely need to turn the boost down before you blow that ************ up!
#6
I purchased it last night, I'm gonna try and take it for a drive sometime tonight and see how the tuning goes. What do I need to modify to get things in the right areas? By that I mean what do I need to do so the computer knows what to do. Do I just modify the AFR table? or other things as well?
Also, I dont think I can lower the boost....I have it hooked up straight to the wastegate currently and that I see hold around 5psi if I give it partial throttle, If I go WOT it goes up to 15. I dont think a MBC will be able to lower it?? I hope I could add water injection for the time being until I can take off the turbo again and port the wastegate some more.
Also, I dont think I can lower the boost....I have it hooked up straight to the wastegate currently and that I see hold around 5psi if I give it partial throttle, If I go WOT it goes up to 15. I dont think a MBC will be able to lower it?? I hope I could add water injection for the time being until I can take off the turbo again and port the wastegate some more.
#7
Trunk Ornament
iTrader: (11)
It's called boost creep, and it's deadly. It happens when the wastegate is fully open, but not enough exhaust can be bypassed through the tiny wastegate port, so the exhaust finds it easier to escape through the turbine, thus continuing to spool the turbo up with the wastegate fully open.
FC3S Pro v2.0: Mods - Wastegate porting
You don't even need to pull the turbo off to do so. I bought a carbide burr from northern tool to port mine, and it won't creep past the wastegate setting.
Under the tabs on the dash display, the last tab is "VE analyze live! - Tune for you". Go to that one, and it should ask you questions about the size of the engine, injectors, etc. Input the information, guess about what power you're making (I said around 250HP and 250Tq, not sure how accurate that was, but why not), and it should create an AFR table for you. Modify it to your needs, then hit the auto tune button and take a drive.
FC3S Pro v2.0: Mods - Wastegate porting
You don't even need to pull the turbo off to do so. I bought a carbide burr from northern tool to port mine, and it won't creep past the wastegate setting.
Under the tabs on the dash display, the last tab is "VE analyze live! - Tune for you". Go to that one, and it should ask you questions about the size of the engine, injectors, etc. Input the information, guess about what power you're making (I said around 250HP and 250Tq, not sure how accurate that was, but why not), and it should create an AFR table for you. Modify it to your needs, then hit the auto tune button and take a drive.
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#9
Warheads on foreheads!
iTrader: (8)
You can definitely get better results than that with a high compression 6 port turbo. (You might need to turn the boost down some too!) Did you buy the full version of Tuner Studio? If you put together a decent AFR map, it tunes the fuel map (VE map) for you, and it does a DAMN good job too. MIDNFauciUSN and I both use it (I'm sure others do as well) and we both agree it's probably the best $50 spent so far. I'm a non-believer in butt dyno results, but when it's "fast" before, then you can't hold your head off the seat afterwards, I'd call those results. A datalog of before and after show much better AFR's throughout the RPM range, which is something I was having trouble trying to pin down through the process of doing datalog runs followed by a subsequent bench tune.
Edit:
Holy CRAP! IAT of 170*!!! You definitely need to turn the boost down before you blow that ************ up!
Edit:
Holy CRAP! IAT of 170*!!! You definitely need to turn the boost down before you blow that ************ up!
I purchased it last night, I'm gonna try and take it for a drive sometime tonight and see how the tuning goes. What do I need to modify to get things in the right areas? By that I mean what do I need to do so the computer knows what to do. Do I just modify the AFR table? or other things as well?
Also, I dont think I can lower the boost....I have it hooked up straight to the wastegate currently and that I see hold around 5psi if I give it partial throttle, If I go WOT it goes up to 15. I dont think a MBC will be able to lower it?? I hope I could add water injection for the time being until I can take off the turbo again and port the wastegate some more.
Also, I dont think I can lower the boost....I have it hooked up straight to the wastegate currently and that I see hold around 5psi if I give it partial throttle, If I go WOT it goes up to 15. I dont think a MBC will be able to lower it?? I hope I could add water injection for the time being until I can take off the turbo again and port the wastegate some more.
If your intake temps are at 170, I'd imagine you need an aftermarket wastegate, or some kind of alcohol injection.... or a different intercooler.
How is the intake piping routed? Where is the filter? If you're running a TMIC, is the ducting on the hood there (the collapsible rubber or foam stuff)?
You're correct in saying that an MBC wont be able to lower your boost levels... they just keep the wastegate from opening.
To use VE Analyze Live, you need a solid ignition map, and AFR map... the rest seems to be done for you by the computer. Like AGreen said... best 50 bucks ever spent!
#10
MIDNFauciUSN, vmount is coming soon as well as water injection, stick intake piping track, though it is 2.5 inch instead of 2inch. filter is in the common stock box area. The rubber around the hood duct is there as well.
I can post up my MSQ if you guys wanna take a look. I actually just went out with the car and it pulled some fuel in the cruise map and added a bit way up top, it pulls harder! I cant imagine what it'll do once I can get the intake temps under control....That was well worth the 50$!
I can post up my MSQ if you guys wanna take a look. I actually just went out with the car and it pulled some fuel in the cruise map and added a bit way up top, it pulls harder! I cant imagine what it'll do once I can get the intake temps under control....That was well worth the 50$!
#11
Trunk Ornament
iTrader: (11)
You may need to temporarily add a minor exhaust restriction to keep boost creep down.
I flogged my car on my way back home from Jacksonville (about a 45 minute drive) just a couple days ago and never got intake temperatures above 87 degrees. I don't remember what the ambient temp was, but it has to be hotter than Oct/Nov in Delaware.
The exhaust restrictor is essentially a plate that you bolt between exhaust flanges that either has a bunch of holes drilled in it, or one large-ish hole. I'd do the swiss-cheese method, since you can always unbolt it and add more holes if it feels too restrictive. What you're hoping to get is to restrict just enough exhaust flow to keep boost levels down to a safe level, but not too much to where it does the job too well and limits your power. I have a feeling you can make more power if you slightly restrict your exhaust and lower the boost down to about 10.
I flogged my car on my way back home from Jacksonville (about a 45 minute drive) just a couple days ago and never got intake temperatures above 87 degrees. I don't remember what the ambient temp was, but it has to be hotter than Oct/Nov in Delaware.
The exhaust restrictor is essentially a plate that you bolt between exhaust flanges that either has a bunch of holes drilled in it, or one large-ish hole. I'd do the swiss-cheese method, since you can always unbolt it and add more holes if it feels too restrictive. What you're hoping to get is to restrict just enough exhaust flow to keep boost levels down to a safe level, but not too much to where it does the job too well and limits your power. I have a feeling you can make more power if you slightly restrict your exhaust and lower the boost down to about 10.