*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

I don'tknow why I didn't post this is upearlier, i just ran across it again. peak boost is just shy of 13psi, but where peak power is made boost had dropped to 11psi. 1st sheet is RWHP vs RWTQ. second is RWTQ vs BOOST (in psi). relevant mods are:

NA S4 motor w/ TII rotors
extended streetport
walbro 255
680/850 injectors
rtek 2.1
hybrid turbo (stock s5 hotside and chra, turbonetics 60-1 hi-fi cold side)
old school trust ic

RotaSpinna69

iTrader: (10)

Great numbers! I was looking at your gallery and was wondering what E-fan you were running with shrouding?

Thanks,

Andrew

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

andrew,

thanks, as was rather impressed as well at how much power it made at such a low boost level.

the fan is a 16” Zirgo E-fan (model ZFB16S). its a perfect fit for the fc rad and cools phenominally. the shroud is custom and made from .090" sheet aluminum.

i highly recommend the fan to anyone wanting to go e-fan. it has a low amp draw and pulls a ton of air (3000cfm @10 amps). and it was a good price (i think it was like $100+shipping from summit). shrouds can be made pretty cheap too. i have a budy at a machine shop so mine only cost ~$35 to make but i cant see anyone charging more than $100. there is also company that makes a aluminum shroud/efan combo thats bolt-on for fcs for like $250? if i find the site ill post it..

RotaSpinna69

iTrader: (10)

Awesome, thanks!

Andrew

flaco

iTrader: (7)

make it hold 14-15 psi and youll see

just startn

iTrader: (33)

this is exactly what my car made at the same boost level. last year and many years before.

s4 n/a turbo rotors stock ports.
bnr stage 3
forget injector size. they were maxed out though.
stock Ic, stock manifold, 2.5inch racing beat DP RB presilencer and the rest of the exhaust was STOCK!
walbro 255.
THe car got way to hot for my likeing when it was like this

solareon

iTrader: (1)

now hurry up and finish the rebuild and put a 35r on it dammit.

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

haha i hear ya kyle. im actually thinking of keeping this turbo since its got a nice power to spool balance AND its not as expensive as said 35R. definately going with a different ic setup. thinking so hard about a v mount

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

Nice, what were the AFRs? With the turbo rotors I would definitely get some AI and turn the boost up to the compressor's highest efficiency range. If you max out this setup you should make some good HP (probably 350whp+) and have a fun car, but it depends on what you want out of it. Do you still have the exhaust diffusers in the housings?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

are you using turbo intake manifolds?

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

khanartist: yea, i hear you man, its plenty of fun at 10, so im sure its a blast @ 15+psi. no, exhaust diffussers are out.

arghx: yessir. TII tb, UIM and LIM that is custom made to fit a 6 port (courtesy of japan2la).

Japan2LA

iTrader: (256)

Nice!!!!

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

btw khanartist, i have been thinking of going AI. with the fmic i have (4" thick core) i have noticed a considerable rise in coolant temps so i was going back and forth between a v mount (which would also give me a valid excuse to buy an awesome hood) or a stock tmic w/ AI. what do you guys think? which would be more effective?? obviously a stock tmic/AI would be more cost effective (at least in the short run) and less work than a vmic and also probably more effective but not as badass haha. to put things in perspective, i think ultimately i'd be happy with ~350whp (which i think is possible w/ this turbo, but i may be upgrading later on anyways..) and the car is street driven with spirited driving of course.

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

thanks man, couldnt have done it without your LIM. btw, for anyone looking at getting one (if he still has the one or two for sale), THEY ARE EXCELLENT. quality, direct fit, nice price, quick turn around, etc etc. cant reccommend it enough. also makes a 6 port turbo much easier since you can use anything meant to be used with a TII (my ic for instance, no spacer on the turbo mani, etc) rather than doing everything custom.

RotaSpinna69

iTrader: (10)

I'm also wondering the same thing...

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

If you have a TMIC laying around I would run that setup first and see how it does. How hot does your water temp get though driving normally and redlining?

VMIC is too much work and money IMO unless you have access to fabrication equipment and can weld. I say if you have the money, run the TMIC setup and upgrade the radiator. Or put the front mount behind the radiator and fabricate brackets like the stock condenser/radiator setup.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

if your water temps consistently stay below 200 F or so I wouldn't worry about the water temps. The thermostat doesn't even open fully until 95 C (203 F).

solareon

iTrader: (1)

I don't think he has a problem in that department. He does know me after all

The TMIC stocker sucks. Running it past stock boost makes it an interheater than an intercooler.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Try water spray on the TMIC. Set it up to spray on 8# up on the boost.

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

under boost they were hovering around 12.1:1. richest point according to the shop WB was 11.8:1, leanest was 12.3:1. rich but safe IMO since i wasnt dyno tuning. just highway tuned and then only did a dyno RUN.

on avg, the temps are fine, i dont see anything past about ~190F to 195F just driving around even on a hott day. the highway is where im haveing an issue. according to my rtek i have seen temps up to 225F. well above where i wanna be. peak that i have seen is almost 235F. that was on a hott day, i had been driving @ ~2800rpms on the highway for a few miles and did a few pulls (stupidly).
haha thanks kyle. yea if i go v mount im gonna build up quite a beer tab w/ you haha


this is just what im thinking. anyone have any solid data on this setup? (by solid data i mean intake temps of course)

junito1

Can the rtek log Intake temps? PEAK?

On the highway the car should be the coolest. I dont understand why it would get hotter on the highway. Missing underbody panels i suppose? This is why the front mount works like crap too?

I also think your afr's a tiny bit lean for 11 psi and possible high intake temps.

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

yes, the rtek can log intake temps via the stock sensor. it has a continuos log that displays as a line graph. so when you go back and read the log you can spot the peak easily.

you are absolutely right, thats what i found weird too, but my underbody splash tray or whatever its called is still there.

the fmic doesnt work like crap! it actually works fine, its my COOLANT temps that are in trouble. i already thought of just keeping the fmic i have and getting a koyo...but i dunno, tmic w/ spray would be pretty cool.

you really think that 12:1 is too lean??! i dunno, maybe it is to lean tho. im more used to piston motor tuning i guess where you can run low/mid 12s up to 17 or 18 psi haha..

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

From his understanding (and mine) the front mount is probably the biggest airflow obstruction to the radiator. And 225* is baking. It should never get above 210, but then again I've never done 3rd/4th gear pulls on a hot day. Maybe you should retest it on a cooler day or at night where the temp is lower than 90* Also install the undertray and panels below the coolant reservoir behind the front bumper. Maybe make a panel to cover the gap b/w the support bar and the top of the radiator if you want to make it perfect.

And yeah 12:1 on the lean side but everyone has their own tuning methods. If the car is running right then I don't see a problem. Also with a 4" thick intercooler I don't think he's seeing high intake temps. The car is on low compression rotors too.

The water spray has a lot of reviews, you can google it if you want. I couldn't find any results on here when I searched. Most reviews from other platforms claimed temperatures lower than ambient after the spray, most effective when the car is being driven hard. I wouldn't wire it up to a boost switch though since you won't see the effects of it until after most of the water has evaporated. It will have little or no temperature drop directly following the spray. Wire it up to a switch and spray a little before you start to drive the car hard.

I think you'll be fine with the TMIC and AI, some people don't even run intercoolers with AI. Should be a good balance between the two methods of cooling. The setup will be the least effective when you are sitting in traffic with the heatsoaked TMIC. When you start to drive the car at higher speeds the TMIC isn't that bad, I've compared the charge pipe temp to the IC with no spray driving mostly highway on a cold night and the TMIC is much cooler, even without the spray.

junito1

I have an s5 TII engine and i run it on 10.3.1 AFR's At only 7psi. I rather have my baby last then make an extra 15 HP +-.


Also. DO not go tMIC. They suck ***** and heat soak like a mother trucker.


DO you by any chance have an n/a radiator on your car?

ALSO. post some intake temp numbers.

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

good lord man!!! 10.3:1!!!! im suprised the motors not choking!! i was hitting AFRs that rich when i had 1600s on the car and i bogged all day.

i do have an NA rad, i didnt know there was a difference?

ill have to go back into the logs to find intake #s, but i believe i havent seen anyting over like 100F?? cant recall, gotta get my palm...