2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Weather permitting I will be going to Lapeer Drag Way tomorrow (today)
I want to see where I am before adding the boost controller and moving the boost up. I`m not running full boost yet and no restrictor pill in the waste gate actuator line
so have only seen about 5psi max on the street.

stock s4 13bt motor
S5 BNR Stage 2 turbo
K&N cone
Rtek 1.8
four (4) 750cc
walbro 255
LC1 wideband with DB gauge
Stock Wheels and Kuhmo 225 x 50 x 16 all four corners
KYB-AGX four way fronts and eight way rears
Eibach Pro Kit Springs
ACT 6Puck unsprung clutch
Eliminated DTSS
Miata Short Shifter
E-Fan
FD Alternator

I`ll post time slips if not to embarrasing



Any recommendations on strut settings for best weight transfer to rear wheels gladly accepted.

Silverfc88

iTrader: (7)

I think going to a softer setting in the rear should help with some traction. Run around 30psi in the tires. Don't expect to run any decent times your first couple of runs, but you should get better each time. Don't freak pulling up to the tree, just take it easy. Your time doesn't start until you actually leave the line so take your time.


Launch high say around 5000rpm and see how that works for you and don't slip the clutch to much or else you will burn it up.

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Well 150 mile round trip only to get rained out. I'm pretty ******* disgusted at the moment.

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

The clutch is an ACT six puck UNSPRUNG its more like an on/off switch

Thanks for the positive input. I`m going back tomorrow after watching the weather channel for a couple hours.

On the settings for the KYBs I've been running 2 on the front and 4 on the rear which is the middle setting for each. I`ll reset tire pressure to 30psi before pulling out in the AM and drop the rear struts to 3 to try to get a starting point that will transfer weight to the rears without developing wheel hop.

Since I`m running the directional Kuhmos on all corners I am concerned about being able to do a pre run burn out. They don't allow street tires in the water box and the way my car wants to bite on dry pavement I wonder if I can even pull off short, quick burnout without the damn car launching instead of spinning.
Any suggestions? or experiences somebody cares to share.



BTW. Lapeer Drag Way now has a paved return road. Pits are still dirt but lots of room.

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Well I got six runs in before test and tune ended but the track official at the gate gave me somebodys number TWICE so my first three runs i did not get time slips for.
The last three were pretty consistent 14.8 - 14.9s. I did red light on the last run though.

I found it impossible to do a burnout with the Kuhmos, the car wants to launch not spin. I would still get wheel hop causing me to have to let up a hair then back down.
at the start every time. I ended up with the rears set at 3 and rear tire press at 26psi.

I guess over all I was expecting better ETs. I still don't have the boost controller installed so I was only seeing about 5-6psi tops. If I can solve the wheel hop issue and get boost controller in I would think things would improve.

I'll post the three slips I have tomorrow.

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Read the slips from right to left for proper order in time.

Also please note that a "perfect light" is .500 at this track

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

? thats weird. Usually a triple 0 is a perfect light.

Edit: Looking at the slips your easily into low 14-high 13's with a better launch - the 60ft time is whats killing you. I managed a 13.6 with only another 3-4mph trap speed then you.

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

The track website goes into detail to be sure everyone understands the difference in what is a perfect light, they don`t say why there is a difference just that .500 is what you want without going under.

I am looking at maybe getting a set of drag radials. Since I'm on a budget I have to drive the car to/from the strip (150 miles) so no way to get slicks there and then switch from street tires.
I did have fun though.

Silverfc88

iTrader: (7)

It doesn't even matter if you red light or sit at the light for 3 seconds. Your time doesn't start until your break the lights at the start or when you leave the line. You have to look at your sixty foot. If you brought your sixty foot down to maybe a 2.00 you can probably pull low 14's. Maybe even work on your 2-3 gear shift.


All I can say really is practice, thats the only way to bring your times down.


Where you standing on the brakes to do your burnout?


The way I do my burnout is I rev to about 6 grand and dump the clutch and quickly apply the brakes with my left foot while still on the gas. Then you let out and you should roll roward. A line lock on your front brakes would be the easiest route though.


Drage radials made a hell of a difference in my times thats for sure. On average I pull 1.8 60's.




Edit: Your reaction does matter if you plan on bracket racing though.

RETed

Depends on the track...

Some will post unadulterated RT's, which does not adjust the stopwatch time minus the perfect index.
Sportsman tree = 0.500
Pro tree = 0.400

To the OP, drag racing isn't easy.
The second time slip gives the best indication of your potential.
14.8 @ 96 is not bad, but your set-up has a lot more potential than that.
You should be trapping at least 100mph...even 105mph, or a little over that.
It makes me wonder if your fuel is dialed in or not?


-Ted

Silverfc88

iTrader: (7)

Damn I didn't even look at the mod list very well. That car should be well into the low 13's with no problems even 12's.


What are your A/F's like? You should be able to turn the boost up to around 10psi with no problems. Full exhaust?

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=RETed;7143119]Depends on the track...

Some will post unadulterated RT's, which does not adjust the stopwatch time minus the perfect index.
Sportsman tree = 0.500
Pro tree = 0.400

Thanks for your input. I expected not to be perfect as this is the first time I've ever taken ANY car to a real track.
As for fuel, I'm running Rtek's 1.8 ECU which is not adjustable and four 750cc RC Engineering new injectors.
The car pulls hard once I get it to stick and air:fuel gauge shows 11.5 ish all the way up at WOT. Surprisingly it pulls hard as hell to redline and then a couple hundred rpms more.
I have a Megasquirt built for this car and just picked up the MS2 daughtercard since the code is now out. This first trip was to number 1 let me get a feel for racing in this environment and I did enjoy myself . Number 2 let me see what the car does (I have to be very careful cutting up on the streets ....can`t afford the points...so I really don`t have a place to practice launching.

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=RETed;7143119]Depends on the track...

Some will post unadulterated RT's, which does not adjust the stopwatch time minus the perfect index.
Sportsman tree = 0.500
Pro tree = 0.400

Thanks for your input. I expected not to be perfect as this is the first time I've ever taken ANY car to a real track.
As for fuel, I'm running Rtek's 1.8 ECU which is not adjustable and four 750cc RC Engineering new injectors.
The car pulls hard once I get it to stick and air:fuel gauge shows 11.5 ish all the way up at WOT. Surprisingly it pulls hard as hell to redline and then a couple hundred rpms more.
I have a Megasquirt built for this car and just picked up the MS2 daughtercard since the code is now out. This first trip was to number 1 let me get a feel for racing in this environment and I did enjoy myself . Number 2 let me see what the car does (I have to be very careful cutting up on the streets ....can`t afford the points...so I really don`t have a place to practice launching.

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for the double post but the edit time expired before I finished editing.


[QUOTE=RETed;7143119]Depends on the track...

Some will post unadulterated RT's, which does not adjust the stopwatch time minus the perfect index.
Sportsman tree = 0.500
Pro tree = 0.400

Thanks for your input. I expected not to be perfect as this is the first time I've ever taken ANY car to a real track.
As for fuel, I'm running Rtek's 1.8 ECU which is not adjustable and four 750cc RC Engineering new injectors. A Walbro 255 fuel pump. I also have the full turbo back REV TII 3" exhaust. (costly exhaust but well worth it )
The car pulls hard once I get it to stick and air:fuel gauge shows 11.5 to 12 ish all the way up at WOT. Surprisingly it pulls hard as hell to redline and then a couple hundred rpms more.
I have a Megasquirt built for this car and just picked up the MS2 daughtercard since the code is now out. This first trip was to number 1 let me get a feel for racing in this environment and I did enjoy myself . Number 2 let me see what the car does (I have to be very careful cutting up on the streets ....can`t afford the points...so I really don`t have a place to practice launching.

I was never able to get a short burnout because at each attempt I get hop and never really get to the brake to hold her down. I'm looking at getting a pair of drag radials and a pair of 17" wheels and just put them on for the drive up to the track and back then back to street Kumhos. I also will get the boost controler installed this week so I can work on getting the boost up a little at a time without getting to lean. It could be that I don't get Megasquirt installed until I max out the potental of the Rtek.

Funny thing, I was the only import running this weekend......unless you count the Datsun that was running a 572 Chevy Bigblock. Not a lot of import interest in the Detroit area but it surprised me no others were there.

Any recommendations on a pair of drag radials and wheels ?
FYI My old lady is pretty tired of me spending money so wheels only need to serve the purpose but the tires I"ll try not to be a tight wad with.

RETed

Well, what I mean is that a fuel controller (i.e. A'PEXi S-AFC) can be used to fine tune the fuel curve for better power.
Don't assume that your fuel is dialed in perfectly.
For your turbo, the car should be putting out close to 300 at the wheels.


You mentioned trying to run 17" drag tires, but I would recommend to stick with 16".
The taller sidewall can benefit with traction.
You can stuff a 225 / 50 / 16 drag radial on stock wheels.
If you want a little more width, you can step up to a 255 / 50 / 16 size.
I've only used Nitto NT-555R drag radials, so I can't comment on other options.


-Ted

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Once I get the megasquirt installed I`ll be able adjust air:fuel etc.
As for drag radials the Nitto NT555R comes in a P245/50R16 and thats the only 16 inch they offer.
My Kuhmos are 225 50 16 now. The 245s will only be slightly taller, hopefully they will fit in the rear wheel wells without any mods . I'm gonna go with tires first then on to the standalone. My goal was 300RWHP and I know its there just need to get control over the car

jkimbro

iTrader: (3)

Unless I'm just missing something here, you're a bigger intake/exhaust away from gaining about 10-12mph and dropping 1.5 seconds off your 1/4 time. Are you still running stock exhaust, and a stock TID?

mort2002

iTrader: (1)

looks like he is running full exhaust. thats wierd it ran that slow...

here is one of my times from the track

R/T.................. .701
60'.................. 2.096
330'................ 5.488
1/8 ................ 8.792
MPH .............. 82.04
1000'............. 11.385
1/4 ................ 13.550
MPH................ 104.26

this is on boost that was spiking to about 9ish and dropping to almost 5psi at redline. i was using shitty *** toyo spectrum tires on stock GXL wheels, they were skinny. aired down to 12psi, with a 5k launch. rest of mods are in signature, but this was before i installed the secondary injectors.. and stock S5 turbo..

sleepydave

yeah nitto used to have a 225/50/16 555r, but it is no longer being made. I recently made the jump to 16x8's +25 with 245/50/16 555r's. I CANNOT spin at teh top of first anymore, which I could do easily with the 225's.