Hitachi Bathurst sp twins 650ps
This is very cool. I would love some of the experts to chime in also on "your HP" vs US HP and I would love to see some torque.
Not sure of the HP conversion as my "sp" Hitachi are not that far off on much less PSI.
It is awesome to see someone really running these!! Beautiful car btw!!
Not sure of the HP conversion as my "sp" Hitachi are not that far off on much less PSI.
It is awesome to see someone really running these!! Beautiful car btw!!
Funny thing is when I bought these turbos I had no idea about this thread. My stock turbos were dead and I wanted to stick with the twins. Contacts in the racing industry spoke to GCG turbochargers and said they have the stock Hitachi twins but there also was a special Hitachi Bathurst SP twins that were the highest quality twins money could buy and to contact a guy called Sasha who sells them. I wanted the best for my Spirit R and GCG are a reputable company so their recommendation was good enough for me. Then I happened on this thread which is interesting to say the least.
That's pretty much how I felt about these. Be happy with your purchase. They should exceed the originals in both power and longevity so sounds like a win win.As for the numbers I agree. I am not that concerned for mine. I am concerned more how it feels. It is nice to know where you stand though. Like with the tune and all and being able to compare one to another. Congrats again on the awesome vehicle!
Last edited by Testrun; Mar 19, 2022 at 01:54 PM.
First, I'm really happy that you're happy with the setup. That said, 20psi even on upgraded turbos is the limit, so I don't understand the "not pushing the limit" statement. 20PSI E85 370hp.... Something is off or the dyno is reading way low, I'm guessing this is the case. Those numbers should be well over 400 @20psi, I agree with the comments above that the dyno is likely reading 30hp lower than even a mustang dyno. Likely 50hp lower than most.Details on the rest of the setup? Exhaust/Porting etc?
I expect most tuners in this specific setup would back the boost down to 16-18psi bring the numbers down about 20-30hp for safety in case you get a bad tank of gas/bad mix of e85 and daily driving, then have the power map in reserve, or scramble function for power. I'm assuming whatever management system you're using has an ethanol sensor that can do this for you, otherwise that's a bit scary.
I expect most tuners in this specific setup would back the boost down to 16-18psi bring the numbers down about 20-30hp for safety in case you get a bad tank of gas/bad mix of e85 and daily driving, then have the power map in reserve, or scramble function for power. I'm assuming whatever management system you're using has an ethanol sensor that can do this for you, otherwise that's a bit scary.
Off the top of my head mods probably forget some:
Extend Port, dowels, 3mm apex seals
SP twins + intercooler, intake, rhd pipe kit from Sasha
Haltech Elite 2500 + sensors + flex tune + IC7 dash
Turbosmart FPR
Turbosmart Eboost2 - 3 settings I believe around 10psi, 15psi, (20psi E85 only)
RB twin tip exhaust
Radiator
Clutch
Ignition
2000 injector, 525 pump, dual hanger + lines fittings filter each
RB sway bars, end links, ,Tien shocks springs, brake pads, brakes, ADO8r tyres
Miscellaneous new solenoids, new battery, 2nd hand alternator, old car problems switches electrical etc
Probably forget some stuff too
Below my dash after filling up with E85 this morning showing ethanol content top right at 81%
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...13e2bca272.jpg
Extend Port, dowels, 3mm apex seals
SP twins + intercooler, intake, rhd pipe kit from Sasha
Haltech Elite 2500 + sensors + flex tune + IC7 dash
Turbosmart FPR
Turbosmart Eboost2 - 3 settings I believe around 10psi, 15psi, (20psi E85 only)
RB twin tip exhaust
Radiator
Clutch
Ignition
2000 injector, 525 pump, dual hanger + lines fittings filter each
RB sway bars, end links, ,Tien shocks springs, brake pads, brakes, ADO8r tyres
Miscellaneous new solenoids, new battery, 2nd hand alternator, old car problems switches electrical etc
Probably forget some stuff too
Below my dash after filling up with E85 this morning showing ethanol content top right at 81%
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...13e2bca272.jpg
Sorry not too sure, I'll get back to you once I find out. How are the turbos working out for you so far and how is your build/mods going?
[QUOTE=HAK1;12511378]Sorry not too sure, I'll get back to you once I find out. How are the turbos working out for you so far and how is your build/mods
We don't share the same turbos although mine are sold as "sp". They are flawless and I am very happy. I need to work a bit more on the transition and get the boost under a little better control. I am using the Apexi PFC to control my boost so it takes a little to set up.
We don't share the same turbos although mine are sold as "sp". They are flawless and I am very happy. I need to work a bit more on the transition and get the boost under a little better control. I am using the Apexi PFC to control my boost so it takes a little to set up.
[QUOTE=Testrun;12511393]
That's good to hear Testrun, are they the HT12-3KAI turbos or something different altogether? Interesting.
Also I might add that my 98 tune was 314 HP and my E85 tune was 370 HP. So a 50+ HP gain on the same DD shootout mode after going ethanol.
Sorry not too sure, I'll get back to you once I find out. How are the turbos working out for you so far and how is your build/mods
We don't share the same turbos although mine are sold as "sp". They are flawless and I am very happy. I need to work a bit more on the transition and get the boost under a little better control. I am using the Apexi PFC to control my boost so it takes a little to set up.
We don't share the same turbos although mine are sold as "sp". They are flawless and I am very happy. I need to work a bit more on the transition and get the boost under a little better control. I am using the Apexi PFC to control my boost so it takes a little to set up.
Also I might add that my 98 tune was 314 HP and my E85 tune was 370 HP. So a 50+ HP gain on the same DD shootout mode after going ethanol.
I guess I will jump on this thread too. I have the same turbos, the Bathurst twins from FD motorsports, as HAK1. I purchased them through Raceonly Garage in Australia. I have the stock turbo out and am just waiting for my new injectors and some various parts to be returned from Jet Hot (LIM, heat shields, Downpipe, etc.) before I install the new big turbo. Probably looking at installing them in the next two weeks and hopefully getting the car tuned shortly after.
My current set up:
1993 Base NU red
Automatic transmission (flame away!)
HKS downpipe
Apexi Midpipe
Reinhard dual muffler
PWR SMIC
Autoexe carbon fiber intake
Koyo radiator
R-magic ignitor
NGK 9 plugs all the way around
IR high amp alternator
Antigravity battery
TT supra fuel pump
550 oem primaries
1300cc secondaries from RC
Cusco sway bars
RE front stabilizer
HKS coilovers
Autoexe strut bar
APEXI power FC
I will keep you all updated on the install!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9145a810fb.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a10060056e.jpg
My current set up:
1993 Base NU red
Automatic transmission (flame away!)
HKS downpipe
Apexi Midpipe
Reinhard dual muffler
PWR SMIC
Autoexe carbon fiber intake
Koyo radiator
R-magic ignitor
NGK 9 plugs all the way around
IR high amp alternator
Antigravity battery
TT supra fuel pump
550 oem primaries
1300cc secondaries from RC
Cusco sway bars
RE front stabilizer
HKS coilovers
Autoexe strut bar
APEXI power FC
I will keep you all updated on the install!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9145a810fb.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a10060056e.jpg
Last edited by anchaf3; Mar 27, 2022 at 08:18 PM.
Beautiful. Love to hear any updates.
Do you have the program FC Tweak for the PFC?
Which secondaries are you going to go with?
No flames coming from me. What matters is when you put your foot down if your happy or not.
Do you have the program FC Tweak for the PFC?
Which secondaries are you going to go with?
No flames coming from me. What matters is when you put your foot down if your happy or not.
And I do not have the FC tweak, but I have been reading about it.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5bf49540e.jpeg
Bathurst vs 93 stock twins
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bc6b3bbf3.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...08e121f37.jpeg
Bathurst
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3eb6cb407.jpeg
Stock
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...edcc26f73.jpeg
Bathurst
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...776970d81.jpeg
Stock
Bathurst vs 93 stock twins
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bc6b3bbf3.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...08e121f37.jpeg
Bathurst
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3eb6cb407.jpeg
Stock
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...edcc26f73.jpeg
Bathurst
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...776970d81.jpeg
Stock
So the car is back together. everything back from the powder coaters. Since the car was down for a while I went ahead and did the following:
Simplified sequential conversion
850 primaries
1300 secondaries
Mikuni OMP
Project Mu big brakes
Recaro RZ seats
and now.... the car won't start. The car cranks, but won't start. the spark plug wires are connected. the coil packs are less than a year old. the fuel pump primes with no problem. Injectors are brand new. injector connectors are in correct positions. Fuel feed and return lines are in the right place and not backwards.
Also, when turning the key to the on position the wastegate solenoid clicks rapidly and continuously, until I turn the key to the off position. All the solenoids are new. When hooking the connector up to the old solenoid it too will click. When switching the connector to the pre control it also clicks rapidly. I am not sure why I would have this problem. I have gone through and checked the grounds, wiring, and vacuum lines. All looked good. I am wondering if my ECU is bad. I am running a power FC and it has worked fine the last year and a half. It was new when I purchased it.
Any help would be appreciated but I do have a laundry list of things I am going to check. I will get to it later this week and report back.
Simplified sequential conversion
850 primaries
1300 secondaries
Mikuni OMP
Project Mu big brakes
Recaro RZ seats
and now.... the car won't start. The car cranks, but won't start. the spark plug wires are connected. the coil packs are less than a year old. the fuel pump primes with no problem. Injectors are brand new. injector connectors are in correct positions. Fuel feed and return lines are in the right place and not backwards.
Also, when turning the key to the on position the wastegate solenoid clicks rapidly and continuously, until I turn the key to the off position. All the solenoids are new. When hooking the connector up to the old solenoid it too will click. When switching the connector to the pre control it also clicks rapidly. I am not sure why I would have this problem. I have gone through and checked the grounds, wiring, and vacuum lines. All looked good. I am wondering if my ECU is bad. I am running a power FC and it has worked fine the last year and a half. It was new when I purchased it.
Any help would be appreciated but I do have a laundry list of things I am going to check. I will get to it later this week and report back.
You may want to start a thread on the main forum to get more views and input on the No Start.
Does the tach needle bounce when you crank? If not, you have a problem with the crank angle sensors. If so, crank angle sensors are fine.
What are you using for ignition - stock or aftermarket? There's a lot of issues with some IGN1A setups. Wiring on those setups is tricky too.
Just helped a guy here diagnose a no spark and it was 1 ground wire that got missed with his IGN1A setup. Tach needle bounced and was smelling fuel in the exhaust so that pointed to a no spark condition. Fuel, spark, compression, that's all you need.
Dale
Does the tach needle bounce when you crank? If not, you have a problem with the crank angle sensors. If so, crank angle sensors are fine.
What are you using for ignition - stock or aftermarket? There's a lot of issues with some IGN1A setups. Wiring on those setups is tricky too.
Just helped a guy here diagnose a no spark and it was 1 ground wire that got missed with his IGN1A setup. Tach needle bounced and was smelling fuel in the exhaust so that pointed to a no spark condition. Fuel, spark, compression, that's all you need.
Dale
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,804
Likes: 646
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
^yup, the IGN1A setups are awesome *when installed 100% correctly* with massive over-grounding required. Meaning redundant grounds, about twice what you'd expect you need.
You may want to start a thread on the main forum to get more views and input on the No Start.
Does the tach needle bounce when you crank? If not, you have a problem with the crank angle sensors. If so, crank angle sensors are fine.
What are you using for ignition - stock or aftermarket? There's a lot of issues with some IGN1A setups. Wiring on those setups is tricky too.
Just helped a guy here diagnose a no spark and it was 1 ground wire that got missed with his IGN1A setup. Tach needle bounced and was smelling fuel in the exhaust so that pointed to a no spark condition. Fuel, spark, compression, that's all you need.
Dale
Does the tach needle bounce when you crank? If not, you have a problem with the crank angle sensors. If so, crank angle sensors are fine.
What are you using for ignition - stock or aftermarket? There's a lot of issues with some IGN1A setups. Wiring on those setups is tricky too.
Just helped a guy here diagnose a no spark and it was 1 ground wire that got missed with his IGN1A setup. Tach needle bounced and was smelling fuel in the exhaust so that pointed to a no spark condition. Fuel, spark, compression, that's all you need.
Dale
I am running the stock coils with a R-magic ignitor. I am going to double check all my plugs and wires. I did remove the UIM and there is a smell of gas from the LIM runners.
Then I have the problem of the wastegate solenoid continuously clicking. I am going to check the MAP and make sure it is functioning.
So I will check all those things and more tomorrow and Thursday. If no luck I will make a post in the general forum. I have read and read and read so many threads about all this. I hope I can get it going.
Thanks for your input.
Here is a pic of the engine bay... it was looking too good, so something had to go wrong.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f0ea384459.jpg
I am going to be back to my garage tomorrow night. I will take noticed of the tach needle when I attempt to start.
I am running the stock coils with a R-magic ignitor. I am going to double check all my plugs and wires. I did remove the UIM and there is a smell of gas from the LIM runners.
Then I have the problem of the wastegate solenoid continuously clicking. I am going to check the MAP and make sure it is functioning.
So I will check all those things and more tomorrow and Thursday. If no luck I will make a post in the general forum. I have read and read and read so many threads about all this. I hope I can get it going.
Thanks for your input.
Here is a pic of the engine bay... it was looking too good, so something had to go wrong.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f0ea384459.jpg
I am running the stock coils with a R-magic ignitor. I am going to double check all my plugs and wires. I did remove the UIM and there is a smell of gas from the LIM runners.
Then I have the problem of the wastegate solenoid continuously clicking. I am going to check the MAP and make sure it is functioning.
So I will check all those things and more tomorrow and Thursday. If no luck I will make a post in the general forum. I have read and read and read so many threads about all this. I hope I can get it going.
Thanks for your input.
Here is a pic of the engine bay... it was looking too good, so something had to go wrong.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f0ea384459.jpg
Car runs pretty well with the new 850 primaries and 1300 secondaries with adjustments on the commanders. Idle is smooth. I will still need to get it tuned soon.
I will update after tuning.







