era1oner

iTrader: (1)

was wondering why and how am i makeing less power than stock setup,......went to the dyno and 203whp was my max power on a 4th gear run,,,, i have: stock ecu , ported waste gate on stock twins mbc 10psi no leaks or spikes aftermarket intakes catback downpipe , ..no leaks or smoke idles fine .guy the said i was running a bite to rich but nothing risky ,.at 4500 when secondary comes online boost drops to 9psi and by reline is back to 10psi,(please same more than power fc )lol

20Bforme

bajaman

Joe-Jumpin'-Jehosophat!

WHAT has become of education these days?

cpnneeda

iTrader: (1)

How many threads will it take before someone gets the hint? 3 in the past few day that I can remember, probably more.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

1. A chassis dyno (dynojet, dynapack, mustang dyno) is measuring power at the wheels, which will be lower than power at the engine flywheel due to drivetrain losses. Most factory HP ratings advertise power at the flywheel which will be higher.

2. Not every dyno will give the same measurement for the same car, they are complicated devices and there are lots of calibration values that can skew the readings. A clever dyno owner could change a few software settings and cause the dyno to display different numbers for the exact same setup.

3. That number does seem a bit low compared to other stock or nearly-stock setups (search if you're interested), assuming the dyno is reading 'normal' numbers for other cars. Might be a good idea to double-check that your ignition system is healthy (how old are the spark plugs and ignition cables?).

4. Dyno plots are more useful for before/after comparisons (assuming the same dyno is used for both), looking for gains and the general shape of the curve. Don't get too hung up on numbers unless you have other reasons to believe the car is down on power.

era1oner

iTrader: (1)

i know i read your 2

turbotoaster

255bhp at the flywheel standard, thats about 200whp so you have no problems with your setup

FearNoPiston

iTrader: (17)

correct me if I am wrong but that does seem a bit low. I thought stock fd's put out around 215 to the wheels and he has a couple mods.

turbotoaster

well ill be suprised if he only lost 40bhp through the drive train, its normally 55-60 on a stock car and then 75-90 on a big single car

MOBEONER

iTrader: (18)

you can`t expect a 17 year old car to still keep up with factory HP numbers.

FearNoPiston

iTrader: (17)

true but what are the odds its on the original motor?

Upgrayedd

iTrader: (1)

My FD with only a catback at 70k miles dynoed at 208.0 hp and 180.5 tq

Enervation

You have got a few mods (intake, downpipe & exhaust). You should be producing well over 200 whp. I would estimate you should have somewhere around 260-270+ flywheel hp, which at 16% drivetrain loss is approx 218-227 hp. A dyno that reads substantially low may give such a reading, but I would hesistate to jump to that conclusion without knowing about other readings on that dyno.

I assume you don't have a JDM model with a 180K speed cut? (Pretty sure thatll be very early in the rev range in 4th anyway).
Given that you are hitting 10psi at redline (and not drooping down to 8 or so), it sounds like your turbos and exhaust are pretty healthy.

So, perhaps ask the dyno operator if his setup is known to significantly under-read. Do you have the dyno sheets that we can view?

MAXX65

iTrader: (2)

I will have to agree that the dyno type makes all the difference when you are talking about numbers.

With the mods that he has I think it’s a bit low. From my experience, I don't think he should be putting up whp number over 225, but he also shouldn't be at 203 at 9 psi. I was at 212 on a stock good condition motor before I did my current set up, that was on a motor with 25,000+ miles on it. After I added a Power FC, intake, 99 spec turbo’s (oil sil blew on stock twin while on the dyno) and 3.5" exhaust from turbo back I am currently sitting at 243 whp at 7.5 psi.

Who's doing you tune?

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

he's on the stock ecu, so... mazda
and that does sound low for an car with a dp and catback, especially on a dynojet, that would be feasible on a mustang, but I think it should be closer to 220 on a dynojet. Do the full 60k tuneup, new air filter (or an intake in general) change oil, oil filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, tranny and diff fluid, coolant flush, i'm probably forgetting something here, but that should free up a few ponies.

for reference I put down 260 whp with intake, exhaust, fmic, pfc, and 13lbs of boost on a conservative map on 91 octane on stock ports on a mustang dyno

Tim Benton

iTrader: (1)

Post the dyno sheet so we can see the over alll curve of it. Like others have said, how old are the plugs and plug wires? How many miles are on the engine?

era1oner

iTrader: (1)

Hey thanks a lot guys on your inputs , turns out i had a small fuel leakage on a o ring on one of the injectors ,and plugs were a bit on the ugly side , did the 60k tuneup myself not to long after that , ended up switching to full non- seq , car runs great have yet to return to the dyno . As far a tuning ? i prob playing with fire here but no one is , the only thing i mess with as far as that goes is my idle and boost . again thanks a lot .....

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

if you turned up the boost, yes, you're playing with fire, without a PFC, if you have a PFC and datalogit/commander (both preferably) you can make the necessary adjustments yourself

era1oner

iTrader: (1)

ahhh yeah thanks, i have a mbc 10psi with no creep at all and a stable idle, thanks anyways