whats toe steer??
This is when the soft factory bushings or joints in the rear suspension flex under load and change the static toe-in setting for your rear wheel, effectively causing the rear to "steer" the car in a slightly different direction than you had intended. Its a subtle thing that might make the car feel loose in a particular corner as one of the wheels points slightly out or towards the outside of the corner.
Actually toeing in the rear wheels for example is one method used for "curing" a power-on oversteer problem.
Actually toeing in the rear wheels for example is one method used for "curing" a power-on oversteer problem.
Full Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
From: IL
Originally posted by ptrhahn
This is when the soft factory bushings or joints in the rear suspension flex under load and change the static toe-in setting for your rear wheel, effectively causing the rear to "steer" the car in a slightly different direction than you had intended.
This is when the soft factory bushings or joints in the rear suspension flex under load and change the static toe-in setting for your rear wheel, effectively causing the rear to "steer" the car in a slightly different direction than you had intended.
The correct term should be "bump steer". It depends on the geometry of the suspension.
For example, for a double wishbone suspension, it usually gain negative camber and toe-out when the suspension is compressed. This characteristic helps in cornering as the car roll and compress the outside front and rear wheels/suspension.
But when a car goes straight and hit a bump, this split-second gain in negative camber and toe-out would pull the car to one side ---- hence bump steer.
AFAIK, it has nothing to do with the bushings.
Full Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: OC CA
You are right that the FD gains negetive camber when the suspension is compressed (more so in the last few inches), but the rear toes in when compressed. I was supprised how much bump steer the rear of the FD has
Originally posted by Takumi
Not exactly.....
The correct term should be "bump steer". It depends on the geometry of the suspension.
For example, for a double wishbone suspension, it usually gain negative camber and toe-out when the suspension is compressed. This characteristic helps in cornering as the car roll and compress the outside front and rear wheels/suspension.
But when a car goes straight and hit a bump, this split-second gain in negative camber and toe-out would pull the car to one side ---- hence bump steer.
AFAIK, it has nothing to do with the bushings.
Not exactly.....
The correct term should be "bump steer". It depends on the geometry of the suspension.
For example, for a double wishbone suspension, it usually gain negative camber and toe-out when the suspension is compressed. This characteristic helps in cornering as the car roll and compress the outside front and rear wheels/suspension.
But when a car goes straight and hit a bump, this split-second gain in negative camber and toe-out would pull the car to one side ---- hence bump steer.
AFAIK, it has nothing to do with the bushings.
Bump steer is generally a front wheel phenomenon. It's generally caused when the steering arm doesn't follow the same geometry as the A-arms, so when the suspension is compressed, one takes a sharper angle, and turns the wheel slightly.
I'm not sure if "toe-steer" is a real term, but i assumed it was refering to the rear wheel since it was in relation to launch kits (which essentially are the toe links and trailing arms), which eliminate bushing flex... and that isn't exactly bump steer.
Oh yeah, and "negative camber" won't steer the car in any case, toe will. In a well engineered system, bump steer won't happen (even over bumps) because the geometry is correct. That is the case with the FD. The imperfect part is the bushings, and their compliancy under load, such as during a "launch"... something the Pettit kit solves w/ spherical fittings.
Your car should have some negative camber at rest and should gain some as the suspension compresses, that way as the car leans during cornering, the wheels (ideally) maintain the proper angle to the road. If they travelled straight up, when you went around a corner, they'd begin to lean over.
Your car should have some negative camber at rest and should gain some as the suspension compresses, that way as the car leans during cornering, the wheels (ideally) maintain the proper angle to the road. If they travelled straight up, when you went around a corner, they'd begin to lean over.
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
