I was looking at the RX7 store or rotary extreme Toe Links, from reading they seem very good. This car WILL see track time in places such as Sebring, Homestead, and Moroso (track not drag). Maybe even Roebling if Im up for the drive. Are the prices worth it, how do they compete against their stock counter parts. Any other comments about them are greatly apprecaited. If their over kill let me know as well. Any suggestions let me know.

[EDIT] I forgot to add I may buy the RX7 Store Trailing arms as well.

 

After doing some research, I decided to replace the OEM bushings in the stock toe links. The OEM bushings will last longer than the others, and provide performance at a high level. If your bushings are not worn, don't bother replacing them.

 

Well if these will last longer and the bushing will take less abuse then I do not mind fronting the money now for a long term benefits.

 

toe links:

a short rod w spherical bushings at each end adj length controls toe in rear. functionally there is NO difference between oem and aftermarket. no perf adv unless your links have sloppy ends. you can check easily w a couple of 14 mm wrenches. if the link is sloppy i suggest you go to classifieds on this forum and buy a used set for $40.

trailing arm:
big performance advantage to ditch the huge rubber bushing in the front of the arm and replace w nylon (about $50) or aftermarket w sperical bearing and tube.
i prefer nylon.

howard coleman

 

I have the M2 toe links and trailing arms, and the Unobtanium nylatron bushings. All highly recommended!

The M2 (and probably other) trailing arms will also allow a slightly wider tire/wheel. I think Kevin Wyum had 315s on his car in back, but had to roll the fender. I think he said the trailing arms enabled this. On my car, with 10" wide wheels (measured inside the bead) and 285s, I had no issues with the stock trailing arms.


Cheers,

Steve

 

This is my idea for suspension

Garfinkle Torque Brace -> $85
PPF (open to suggestion) -> 200-300 (or should I just repair my stock one. I CAN WELD!
Unobtanium Bushings
Home Made Motor Mounts
Front Bearings
Toe Link Bearings
Differential Brace
Koni Shocks (adjustable ones)
Toe Links (Rotary Extreme or stock =/ still not sure)
Trailing Arms may get the RX7 store ones
Pillow Ball Bushings

Am I missing anything? My suspension would be considered new after this no?
[EDIT] I want to make the suspension as if it came off the show room floor with this. ANY other suspension or bushing or ANYTHING Im missing?

 

Why do you think you need all that stuff?

 

garfinkle torque brace...
essential to take stress off motormounts and ppf. his is a real winner designwise. it is on my car.

ppf...
i suggest you not weld it. as you know welding/heating changes metal properties unless properly heat treated. since we don't know how the ppf was heat treated i would want to mess w it. if it is cracked buy a good used one inexpensively from the forum's classifieds.

motor mounts...
i don't think you need them unless yours is damaged as the torque brace takes the future, er, torque. if damaged you generally only need to replace one... i think it is the driver's side.

toe link...
check yours before you replace... if no slop, no need to replace. no performance advantage. if you do need a toe link check out the classifieds. i wire brushed my toe links and repainted them a snazzy aluminum.

diff brace...
i would run nylon differential bushings (IMO, an essential mod) before going to the diff brace. the diff brace might be a good mod in addition to the nylon diff bushings as it further takes strain off the ppf and eng mounts.

springs/shocks...
springs first, shocks second if needed.
non-coil overs... IMO you have 2 really good options springwise... Eibach Pro Kit... rate 350 fr 255 r, ride height 25.25 fr and 25.75 rear at the top of the wheel wells. really nice.. transforms the car. option 2 is Tein S-coils 432 fr and 378 r. both are well made and work super for aggressive street and track. they also work very well w stock shocks. shocks control springs not the car. the oem non r1 shocks are excellent w the above springs.

trailing arms (rear longitudinal link)...
a big performance upgrade here. the front bushing is a huge glob of rubber and it is responsible for controlling most of the eng and brake torque. you have 2 options. replace the bushing w nylon and use the exquisitely designed oem aluminum link or replace the link w a metal rod w a rod end (spherical bearing) in the front. either option functions the same. when you install the nylon bushing you can space the oem aluminum link inboard anout an 1/8th inch for additional tire clearance. the nylon bushing is available installed in your link for around $70 total.

pillowball bushings (spherical bearings actually)...
the key here is to realize that there is an order of failure amongst them. many may never need to be replaced. a couple should be replaced approx every 50,000 miles. they are on the lower lateral link and carry the vehicle load.

front swaybar mount...
mazda went a little crazy w it and it looks like swiss cheese. it also handles alot of torque and is prone to failure/cracking... check it out. i have a crooked willow replacement item and don't think it is currently available... at minimum, inspect the item often.

that's it from my vantage... run 30 front and 27-28 rear cold air pressure.... .1 toe in front and rear w 1.2 degrees neg camber front and rear and zero rear thrust angle.

good luck,

howard coleman

 

Cause I have 140k on the chassis and it all rattles and clunks like its going to fall apart.

 

correction re the above post.

ppf should read "i would not want to mess w it."

howard coleman

 

Well the bushings will be my first priority. The motor mounts are less than 100$ if I do it myself which I will.

The bushings are pricey yet essential as you stated. Im doing the bearings as well because the rear bearings are SHOT tires are requiring alot of push to make it move. The front are good so may be replaced if Im in the mood.

I guess I shall start the search for a PPF , maybe get brave and get a mazdaspeed one =O

When I get a hold of a lift I will take pics and show them to you guys.

BTW I already got the Eibach springs, I agree Im not a nut for coil overs. Springs with the Koni shocks I thought would give me the best of both worlds, stiff for track and soft for street.

Apprecaite all your input greatly

 

Replace all your worn out bushings first. No need to start adding all these braces and other aftermarket parts until you have the car in "like new" shape again. Of course it rattles and clunks if everything is worn out.

Replace all the stock parts first that are worn or broken and then live with the car for a little while before deciding what else you need. Worst thing that can happen is you save a bunch of money.

 

Its burning a whole in my pocket!! LoL, I agree. Yet I was just getting suggestions. Sebring is on July 31 and I want to take it a few steps at a time to be able to make it to there. I talk to Garfinkle the torque brace should be on its way. I feel I need it since messing around under the hood and giving it gas the whole thing shakes. The motor mounts are cheap and maybe a weekend project. The bushings would probably be another weekend project maybe two since I dont like to rush things.

After 140k miles my stock shocks wouldnt be shot? Because their still the originals.

 

i have a shock dyno and have dynoed many fd shocks w over 140 k on them and they spec out the same as new. only caveat: hydraulic leaks... so visually inspect them.

howard coleman

 

Even though I DONT have an r1? or the shocks the same?

 

I think the Shocks are different, correct me if im wrong. The R1 shocks are a little bit stiffer compared to the Touring and Base which use the same.

ALI

 

Excellent Info!

 

Where can I get Unobtanium bushings, I have looked and can not find. Let me know.

Thanks

 

Which one isthe $70 trailing arms? I am interested in replacing mine. Car is still hopping like kangaroo on turbo.
Thanks - Reza

 

i run 2 sets of nylon bushings and consider them to be one of the first essentials for higher suspension performance.

1. differential mount bushings

2. front bushing on the lower longitudinal link in the rear.

jimlab makes them but i don't know if he sells individual bushings... i do not want all nylon bushings in my car. if he does sell them individually they are first class.

i had my bushings made by a guy (actually he races a DSR in SCCA) in wisconsin. he did an excellent job. you send him your link and he fits the bushing to it, installs the bushing and returns it. generally he round turns in a couple of days.

his email is: a1dave@centurytel.net
phone is 920 836 2812
website http://www.suspensioncontrol.com

howard coleman

 

Before you replace ALL your rear suspension bushings I suggest you check to make sure the inner rear bushings are worn. At 71k my ball joints were worn, but my inner control arm bushings were in very good condition. I replaced my inner bushings anyway because I had already purchased the replacements, but in retrospect I think it was a waste of money.

 

Hi Reza,

I think the arm that Howard is referring to, is the one that connects to the center pillow ball on the lower rear arm. From the lower rear arm, it goes toward the front of the car, and connects with a large rubber bushing.

Howard, please correct me if I am mistaken.

By replacing the rubber bushing with a solid one, you will wear out the pillow ball joint more quickly.

 

yes adam, that's the bushing that needs to be replaced. as to wearing out the pillowball bearing... that specific bearing has the same function as the lower balljoint in the front in that it simply supports all the corner weight. that's why it wears out first. i doubt if changing the front bushing on the link would significantly impact it's length of service. even if it did, it is still one of the single best tradeoffs for performance.

howard coleman

 

Howard,

It seems to me that the center pillow bearing is keeping the lower rear arm from moving forward or backward, and not supporting weight. By repacing the front bushing, with a more solid one, harsher forces will be directed to the pillow bushing. However, the tradeoff for better performance/handling may be worth it.

 

Here ya go:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=300687