MrZUMZUM

Already searched this, btw..........

Is the camber easy to adjust on the FD. If so, I'm thinking of trying like -2 degrees for the track, and then switch it back when I'm done and back on the street. Or, maybe just leave it, since I don't put too many street miles on it anyway.

I definitely am wearing out the outside edges of the track tires first, so I'm guessing this will help with that, and make me faster too.............

How easy is it? and do you guys normally set it up the same all around?

Thanks,

dp

DamonB

Camber is easy to adjust, setting it correctly has some difficulty. Since you're not sure how to adjust it yourself, I would leave it to the professionals. Just take it to a good alignment place and insist on having them set it to your specs. Should be about $100 for a four wheel alignment on an FD.

I know how to set it and have done so, but fact is even though I do all my own work on my car I find it much faster to just pay $100 to have it done and be certain it's perfect. Toe in/out I will do myself on the fly, but getting the castor/camber right is a big pain without a rack to put the car on.

enrique

what about if you have camber plates?

maxcooper

FDs don't have MacPherson strut suspensions, so camber plates wouldn't work.

Get a pyrometer if you really want to dial in the perfect camber. Measure the inside, middle, and outside of the tire right after you come off the track. Here's some example readings and what they mean:

inside, middle, outside
160, 150, 140 -- too much negative camber
140, 150, 160 -- too much positive camber
160, 140, 140 -- too much negative camber, and the tire is underinflated
160, 160, 140 -- too much negative camber and the tire is overinflated
140, 140, 160 -- too much postive camber and the tire is underinflated
140, 160, 160 -- too much positive camber and the tire is overinflated
150, 140, 150 -- tire is underinflated
150, 160, 150 -- tire is overinflated
150, 150, 150 -- setup nirvana! until the next session, when the temps will be different

The temp should be about the same (you won't get it perfect) across the tire. If the inside is too hot, you have too much negative camber. If the outside is too hot, you have too much positive camber. If the middle is too cold, the tire is underinflated. If the middle is too hot, the tire is overinflated. The actual temps will change depending on how long you wait to test (do it ASAP when you pull off) or how "hot" your cool-down lap was (consider pulling off for a quick test and then doing a cool-down lap), but the trend across the tire is what tells you what to change, assuming you were able to get good measurements.

-Max