I finally have my car where it is driveable after a multi year slumber under a car cover and will be hitting the track on 3/30 at Laguna Seca.
2900lbs with me in it, 575rwhp, 315/30/18 front, 335/30/18 rear, Racing Brake BBK with ducting.

What pads are you serious track day junkies running?
This is my 1st choice: DTC-70 front and DTC-60 rear

* what are the part numbers I need?

Any other recommendations or feedback on the above combo or what you have run?

Thanks in advance!

 

I use Hawk DTC 70 front and DTC 60 rear. Part number is HB110 (DTC 70) for Racing Brake RB440 front kit and HB 158 (DTC 60) for stock rear size pads. Overall brake performance is excellent!

 

Thx for the reply!

James2u- How is dusting and are they absolutely just munching thru the rotors? How many track sessions (20-30 mins) do you have on them? How long do you think the front rotors will last running them?

I also contacted Warren at RacingBrake and may try out the XT track pads they offer.

Has anyone on here run the XT pads on their track car?

Need to order pads by end of the week at the latest.

Car is getting Ronin flared front fenders this week to fit 315's up there.

 

My car is putting out around 315 hp at the wheels, still on stock twins at 12psi. I use my car mostly on the weekend doing track and autocross events.

I have had my Racingbrake BBK kit front and rear since 2008 and I am still on the original rotors with approximately 15,000 miles on them. I might have about 3000 track miles on them.

I haven't notice any dusting issues on my CCW wheels with the DTC pads. My CCW classics have the black centers.

I have about 5-6 track days with 4 twenty min. sessions per day using the DTC pads and I still have about half of pad life left. Also, my rotors still have quite a bit of life left in them.

 

Anyone running the Racing Brake XT brake pads?

 

If you love your rotors, and enjoy saving money and not replacing rotors often then please purchase carbotech. I've gone through too many sets with hawk DTC60's and 70's. They're just too aggressive of a pad. Carbotech is a much better pad. Pagid's are also a great choice.

 

Bought the XT pads from RB. Will report on them in April with feedback

 

I did a high 60* temp day at Laguna Seca with these pads and was impressed with their stopping power, minimal squeal, no brake fade, and low dust. Still running them on the street for about 600 more miles and they barely squeal at all only time to time.... dust is low and easy to clean off. Cold brake temp stopping distance is worse than my street pads.... but that is expected.

Due to not having an oil cooler I couldn't push my car hard as after a few laps my oil temps were spiking and oil pressure getting wonky...... so my evaluation is at about 75% driving effort and not a full session to see if the RB BBK can tame my power output reliably stop after stop.

Hope to report back more this summer.

 

Was back at Laguna Seca on Monday with an oil cooler which helped oil temps.... but it still needs to be ducted or run a larger one as the oil got thin and pressure got weird. Wouldn't increase beyond 42psi with increasing RPMs..... so basically the viscosity went away.... I would cool down for 1 lap and then for 3-4 laps it would be good again until it happened yet again. Temps were only in the high 70's or low 80's.

I only ran a 1:43.6; however that was on 2 year old Nitto NT01 315's front and 5 year old Toyo RA1 335's out back on a mild street alignment. I have no aero (splitter/wing) and the car could lose a couple hundred pounds for sure which is coming up next. I drove to/from the track from SF getting low 20's mpg on the highway. Ended up melting/deforming the rear poly diff bushings from diff heat/exhaust temps and the diff was clunking on every shift. Remedy is some alum bushings and diff cooler (running Cobra IRS diff). Never changed the suspension settings at all (could go a lot firmer).

Hoping with slicks to lose 3 seconds, 1-2 seconds with aero, 1-2 seconds with traction control (some corners I need to modulate the throttle), and 1 second with some further weight reduction (CF doors, race seats, smaller battery, less fuel).

Got a chance to pound on the brakes a bit.... but only did late braking on a few sessions as I'm still testing the car. Running ATE Blue fluid and never had any brake fade with the RB XT track pads. I'm actually driving these pads on the street and brake squeal is minimal. Way better than Hawk HP+ that my roommate is running on his M3. I can hear him from blocks away. The pads feel good so far; however I think I want something with more bite.... that may come at the cost of rotor life though.

After this track session the rotors definitely have a lip starting on the outer edge. My guesstimate is that after 3-4 more track days the rotors are going to be toast. Next set I'm getting cryo'd and running brake ducting.

 

Thats disappointing to hear about the diff issues. Im running the 8.8 as well, I have an aftermarker cover which is slightly higher capacity, but I was hoping running a cooler was something I wouldnt have to do. What type of fluid are you using? Im trying out royal purple "max gear" in 75-140.

 

Not sure if they make them for Racing Brake calipers—but pretty sure they do—you might want to try PFC pads, at least for the front. 01's if you want more bite, 08's for a little more life. I pair them with DTC 60's or blues in the rear.

They're pretty nice on the rotors. ALSO, it's pricey, but can't say enough good things about Castrol SRF fluid. The stuff doesn't absorb water, so you don't need to flush it all the time like others. I think over time it ends up saving $$$.

 

I'm running Redline diff fluid out back.
Below the diff breather there is evidence of spillage/boiling on the exhaust and all over the passenger side under the rear of the car in that area.

Ptrhahn- I may try those pads next.

 

a few more pics....

 

Sure looks like you had fun out there Mark! The car is looking very nice

You may also want to wrap the exhaust pipes (I use DEI Titanium wrap) as they pass by the rear axle to keep the radiant heat load down.

As you noted a pump and cooler for the Ford 8.8 may also be needed. For now try running an extension hose with clamp from the 8.8 breather tube, maybe 2-3 ft long with a small RC engine air filter on the end of the hose and mount the filter end up high on the bodywork. That should give the fluid enough room to expand without spilling out and all over everything. That trick worked great for me on a hot running FWD trany with a hard working Quife LSD that tended to over heat the fluid - although I ended up having to fit a pump and cooler to that set up as well.

 

I use the PFB Carbon Metallic (not sure which version) pads with stoptech up front and power slot rotors in the rear. ATE Blue fluid. When I got the pads they were only just released about a week earlier. They are VERY good pads. They dust a little. Rotor wear is pretty good. Only issue is when street driving if you DON'T beat on them they can glaze over just like an aggressive clutch. After about 3-4 60-0mph beating they are back to 100% and very grippy.

 

Glad to see you out there doing what the car was meant to do

I sold my RB front setup a few years back in favor of the SBG/AP Competition setup and have had zero regrets since:

Competition Brake System - SakeBomb Garage

With the capabilities of your FD, the RB kit isn't going to cut the mustard IMO.

Also look into Endless pads, for your application start with ME20/ME22 and move up from there. They're not cheap, but from recent experience they look to last a long time..... last year my brother and I pulled double duty on his FD on NJMP-Lightning (admittedly not too hard on brakes) and put in approx 8 total hours of lapping over the course of the weekend. When complete, the pads had next to no wear. I was amazed.

We're doing the same thing in about a week, I'll let you know if we have the same result

 

A note about those endless pads (me-22) on the SBG BBK, they squeal like a garbage truck.

 

Most track pads will. My car sounds like an old rusty wheel barrow in the paddock. Gotta swap to something streetworthy when you're not at the track. If they are squealing ON track, you may not be pressing them hard enough :-)

 

On the OEM front calipers they're actually very silent.

Maybe it's user/install error

 

My DTC60s/HT10s are quiet, I drive them to the track

 

I run DTC60 front and DTC30 rear with stoptech bbk's in the front. Best setup ever. Well... DTC70 front and DTC60 rear is the best setup but the front rotors take a pounding, only last about 2 seasons.

thewird

 

Stock calipers have anti-squeal/rattle springs—so that contributes, aftermarket calipers typically do not. Pull the little spreader springs out of your stock rears, even with street pads, and see what happens.

Obviously, some combos are worse than others. PFC 93's on my stock calipers used to squeal something awful. For a track application, who cares... for street, I wouldn't run track pads anyway. If your streets squeal, try a little anti-squeal compound on the pads—it's just the pads vibrating at high frequency.

 

Mark, glad to hear things are going well. Car is looking great! I highly reccommend the PFC 01's and the Hawk DTC series with a staggered set up (less aggressive pad in the rear).