Knowing that I can fit CCW 18x10s all around for track use, my questions are:

1. Who all is running CCWs on the street?

2. What is the largest size (17s? 18s?) you'd recommend for street?

3. I do autoX, so it is a consideration, but since I'm not all-out crazy about it (very recreational), I'll probably use these for autoX with street tires as well. Just another factor.

Thanks for any input folks,

-E

 

There a very durable wheel, just as good for street as any other. As far as size goes, w/ a 17" you'll get less rotational mass and more of a wide selection of tires. 18" narrows your tire choices and probably isn't the most performance minded but is still not a bad choice either. I say get what you think suits you better.

 

Thanks Kyle, I appreciate the input.

The only thing that I remember being a negative about the 17s (from CCW) is that it's a little harder to match tire sizes (as in match to the stock diameter), and that the tires don't really cost all that much less anyway. That would be with 17x10s all the way around (which would be my first choice).

Perhaps I'm remembering wrong, but John mentioned something about this when I got a quote from him about 6 months ago.

Anyone running 17x10 CCWs?

-E

 

10 wides won't fit all the way around in 17 without M2 trailing arms in back, and 2.5-inch OD coilsprings. You'll need to go 9.5 wide x 17 diameter, if your suspension has stock OD coilsprings and stock rear trailing arms. With 9.5 x 17 wheel size you can fit 255/40-17 Kumho Victoracer V700 tires; these tend to run wider than most 255/40-17s. Offset for 9.5 x 17 will be in the 45-mm to 50-mm range. As you already know the V700 Victoracers are excellent autocross, track lapping, and summer street tires; and the V700s are quite inexpensive (relatively) to boot...

 

While not a very popular idea, you can also run the 275/40's on a 9.5-in rim. The 275's will NOT fit without coilovers. And they will rub if the ride height is lowered too much and/or the spring rate is too soft.

E, for your purposes, I think you're better off with the 18x10's anyhow. Less fitment issues (still need the coilovers) and, IMO, the 285/30's on 18's look better than the 275/40's on 17's. Price break on tires between 18's and 17's is not that great.

 

Thanks fellas.

Do you think I'm going to have any rubbing issues with the 18x10s all the way around RRR1? John seemed to express some slight concern about it. It's not a daily driven vehicle, but I do live in a part of town (like many parts of town here) that has horrendous street conditions.

The last thing I want to do is roll my fenders. I know Scott Bowman had some slight rubbing issues with his CCWs, but he was also running on 17s.

Sleep (and RRR1), I had thought about getting the Kumhos for dual-purpose use before, but I'm not sure it's such a great idea. I'm worried about them sitting in one place for 7-14 days at a time while on the car. Plus there's the issue of wear also. These Toyos are lasting me forever, which is nice. Too bad the Kumho MXs aren't offered in 285/30/18 trim (yet). I've got a set on the Audi, and I'm lovin' 'em.

-E

 

Toyo RA-1s are availabe in 255/40-17 for 9.5 x 17. Not as wide as Kumho, but they will fit nicely on a 9.5 wide wheel.

 

The 18x10's will absolutely require 2.5"ID spring coilovers and you'll need to dial in a fair amount of negative camber. Moreso for insurance against rubbing, roll the fenders. It's not a big deal and you can do it yourself (a nice peewee aluminum bat and a friend). I don't think you'll have any issues if you don't lower the car. Scott's problems were mostly from his ride height, IIRC. He also ran the 275/40's on 17's .... which is a taller profile tire which might explain a little bit too. Keep the same stock ride height and rubbing shouldn't be an issue. I'd be especially aware of it with your fancy-schmancy paint job.

And I'd advise against purchasing V700's and driving them on the street. They will heat-cycle SUPERFAST. In the dead of Texas summers, double that rate. The Kumho MX's have been getting rave reviews though. I'm giving them some consideration as my AVSi's have all but given up the ghost.

 

Eeesh. Car is already lowered. And I MUST find out what coilovers I'm running to begin with.

So much of what's on the car, came with the car, including the entire suspension setup. And I've misplaced all my documentation on what was done before me (some by the original owner and some by the 2nd owner - I'm #3).

I'm also worried about cracking the paint while rolling the fenders. Perhaps my fears are unfounded.

I'll figure it out though. I'm about to unload a bunch of old (but very good) stereo equipment here in the next week or two, as well as the extra set of stock rims, so I should have just about enough to order the CCWs from John.

Tires will come later...when the Toyos have seen their final days.

-E

p.s. RRR1, PM'd you about Sunday's autoX.

 

enuttage,

Off/topic, what stereo gear you sellin'?

Check out this thread. FritzFlynn's selling his CCWs. They weren't even used much!

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...83#post1941983

 

Thanks for the heads-up Sleep!

I think I'm gonna hang on for the street version of the rims. He's offering those up for a great deal though...

Stereo equipment is an Eclipse CD5441, an IDQ12 sub w/ clear plexi box from Gately Audio (http://www.gatelyaudio.com/gabesacura.html) and two Phoenix Gold XS2300 amps.

Know anyone who's interested?

-E

 

I run 18x9.5 SSR Comps all around on the street with 265/35's and I have plenty of clearance on stock R1 suspension. I honestly think 18x10's would fit if the extra 1/2 inch was inboard. Not sure though, just going by what I see on my car.

BTW: You guys think I would have any issues with H&R springs on my setup? I know Manny loves the R1/H&R combo

 

You'll have no trouble with rubbing. Do it! You'll love the new look and performance! I recommend getting thicker sway bars too too!

 

Ahh...well, if you have stock style coil springs, get 9.5 x 17 CCWs (45 to 50 mmf offset) all around with 255/40-17 tires. No rubbing problems, and the handling balance will be preserved (damned near neutral), not to mention the convenience of rotating tires at any wheel position. Asymmetric setups (skinny front/fatter rear) is for wusses (because of more understeer) LOL It takes REAL skill to drive our FDs fast through a road course with same size tires all around (hee hee ) Once you master steering the rear end with the gas pedal...you will know what I'm talking about!

 

Damn straight. I actually prefer the all-around setup because of the slow steering ratio. Staggered setups make me have to turn even earlier!

 

i bought some 18x10 ccw's a couple months ago and put 285/30/18 on them. i am running the mods below with -2.5 degrees of camber in front. when i initially put them on the car and it had about 2 fingers worth of clearance from the front fender lip they rubbed the lip everytime i hit a bump. i think it was on a medium-hard suspension setting too. i had to increase the ride height about an inch all around to eliminate this. they also rubbed on the front lower suspension arms with the back of the rim. i don't think this is all that uncommon since my friend with older 17x10's had the same problem too. the wheel was basically "sawing" into the suspension arm a couple millimeters. these are some of the problems with running such huge tires in front. every car is different though so your experience will most definitely vary. i can take some pics later if anybody wants to see.

alex

 

Yeah, maxcooper had to raise his ride height too...10 x 18 is a a seriously maximum width fitment, the clearance are tolerances are very slim (as you know). This is why I recommend the 9.5 x 17s all around with 255/40-17s...

 

have CCW's in 17x9.5 with 255/40 and 17x10.5 275/40. no rubbing in the rear, but had to roll the fenders in front. going up a drive way with wheel fully turned to one side tire was cathing the fender lip. i think height is at about 25" or lil bit less from ground up to fender lip at all corners with coilovers. don't have the exact #'s but have about -1.5 camber in front and about -2 camber in rear...

 

i run 18X10 all around on a track only FD. khumo v700, tripoint's stiffest bar in front and 14 kg/mm (about 850) front and 12 kg/mm (650) rear spring rates. at just slightly down from stock ride height and i have not touched fender lips since i had them rolled. they would occasionally touch before they were rolled in VERY high G loading situations.

if you are worried about track or autocross performance, don't just add negative camber to fit the wheels....mechanical grip level will suffer unless you set your camber using a pyrometer. i run -2.25 in front and -.75 rear....that gives me consistently even temps across my khumos. settings will be different for every different setup.

one thing that wasn't mentioned was the terrible ride quality of 30 series tires on the street......and the risk to your expensive wheels running through potholes with no sidewall height.

good luck
fabian