This is for FD autocross.

How can we go wider than 17x10 or 18x10 all around?
Would it be possible to run 17x12 or 18x12 or more on rear? and 17x11 or 18x11 or more on fronts?

If the answer is yes, what is the minimum ride height so that fender won't bottom out on tires in corners and bumps.

The goal is to run 295 in front and 315 in back.
Suspension is JIC FLTA2 with stock swaybars, stock trailing arms, and RE toe links.

 

Oh yea...forgot to add, we are in ASP.

Another option of suspesion is GAB Super-R with GroundControl 550/450 springs.

 

Largest I have ever seen on an FD without body mods is 18x10 and those push it.

10" is a LOT of rubber for an FD. Unless you're making tremendous horsepower I wouldn't even try to go wider.

 

Reza,

check this thread out with the guy with HRE...

he is running 18x10.5 in the rear....

285's in the rear.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...5&pagenumber=1

 

I have the 17x10 CCW with A3S03.
My friend have the 18x10 CCW with A3S03.

Last event was National Tour in San Diego and we were running the 18x10. It really sticks to the ground. I feel that sometimes when the turbo kicks etc, we almost loose traction. Of course this is not in straights, but in big sweeper or slalom.
My times about 4-5 seconds behind Gary Tomason the ASP champion. How do I improve? I think that flatter car and bigger wheels would be the answers to that...
Maybe this is actually the driver need to improve versus improving the car Smoother inputs? I tend to jerk the steering wheel too fast, and of course this puts sudden load on the tires, so if I can get bigger tires, it would help no?

 

You can fit 18x10's without body mods
My friend has 18x10.5 and has the fenders rolled, anything bigger needs body mods.

 

I can tell you right off the bat that 4 seconds behind on any length of course is NOT tire width. Stick with the 18x10's and keep at it.

You will never make the driver better by bolting parts to the car.

The fast guys are fast because they can drive the wheels off. No amount of car mods will get you there. Be patient, go to a lot of events and attend some schools.

I shot in car video all last season but I don't have a way to convert them to mpegs in order to post. (Got some of 7racer going for a ride )

 

 

Damon, I am expecting your response.

Well he got this C5 with Z06(400+hp) engined car with 335 rears and 315 fronts Kumho V710.

That is why I think we need to be at least 315 rears and 295 fronts and at least around 300hp to be competitive...
Then improve the driving some more.

There are not autox school around Nor California.
The only seat time we can get is local championship with 3 runs and that is about twice a month.
I know with school you get probably 10 times that in a day...

 

I don't consider myself the best either; I can name 10 people just locally that I feel drive better than I do. Didn't mean to sound like I was on a high horse.

My only point was don't bother spending the money on wider wheels/tires. You said you need 4 seconds to be competitive and wider wheels/tires (and even another 100 horsepower) are absolutely positively not going to get you that. So now you've spent $$$$ on wheels and tires and find you still need 3.5 seconds It's not wheels you need, it's more practice.

I chase well driven Z06's every other weekend; no amount of rubber on an FD is going to even the score. I do outrun plenty of Z06's at the track, but that's only because their drivers are not getting the potential out of the car.

The job of the driver is to extract 100% of the car's performance. If you already know that you are not doing that, no sense in improving the car. I went to the driving range once and found out I completely suck at golf No sense in me owning nice clubs; I wouldn't do any better than I if used an axe handle at my present level of ability.

 

Just so reza doesn't go away from this thread empty handed:

http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/w...tem=2466223489

Don't forget the body kit!

 

Okay...I will go get more seat time. I know that I have to improve at least another 2 seconds, because my friend can usually get those in the same car...

 

Like everyone said ... uh, no. Gary Thomason is one of the premiere auto-xers in the nation. He's also been doing this for a long time. Look at his competition ... that Lotus Elan can't run big rubber either, but they sure gave Gary T a run for his money.

Quote:

Maybe this is actually the driver need to improve versus improving the car Smoother inputs? I tend to jerk the steering wheel too fast, and of course this puts sudden load on the tires, so if I can get bigger tires, it would help no?

Smoother driver first. Then upgrade the car. If you can push the car to its adhesion limits and still be in control ... then it might be time to start thinking about what else to upgrade.

-Don

 

 

There is some 50 year old in a FC he has owned since he purchased brand new. He has no fancy coilovers or huge mufflers or whatever. He has basic R compounds on a 7 inch wheel and he beats everyone.