Post Pics of your FD Wheel Fitment!!
#1451
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
For a 265/35 18 you should be able to do a 10.5 wide rear with an aggressive offset and just a roll. I ran a 265/35 18 on a 10.5 +12 with just a roll. I now run a 295/30 18 rear tire on a 10.5 +12 with an aggressive pull without issue. An aggressive pull on an FD is no joke. Patients is needed.
#1454
For a 265/35 18 you should be able to do a 10.5 wide rear with an aggressive offset and just a roll. I ran a 265/35 18 on a 10.5 +12 with just a roll. I now run a 295/30 18 rear tire on a 10.5 +12 with an aggressive pull without issue. An aggressive pull on an FD is no joke. Patients is needed.
#1457
Make an assessment...
iTrader: (3)
^Depends on if you want to stretch your tires. On a set with a straight up and down sidewall, you'd still have to roll but might not have to flare them. Actually you might have to flare them just a tiny bit. But if you stretched a little you could probably get away with just a roll.
#1459
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Sakura Garage Page 7
Last edited by Neutron; 01-28-13 at 12:04 AM.
#1461
I attached pics of 18x10.5 +12's all around with 265/35's in the rear with just a roll. The link is of the shop that did my pull. He pretty much documents everything he does. I am about half way down the page in the link which will show what the 18x10.5 +12 with the 295's look like on the stock rear with a roll and progress to what it looks like with the pull. I am not sure if this link will hold up as he post more. You may need to go back through the pages as he adds more posts. The shots are close ups so not the greatest but you will get the idea. My cars on jack stands now as I am doing some updates
Sakura Garage Page 7
Sakura Garage Page 7
#1462
Moderator
iTrader: (5)
I attached pics of 18x10.5 +12's all around with 265/35's in the rear with just a roll. The link is of the shop that did my pull. He pretty much documents everything he does. I am about half way down the page in the link which will show what the 18x10.5 +12 with the 295's look like on the stock rear with a roll and progress to what it looks like with the pull. I am not sure if this link will hold up as he post more. You may need to go back through the pages as he adds more posts. The shots are close ups so not the greatest but you will get the idea. My cars on jack stands now as I am doing some updates
Sakura Garage Page 7
Sakura Garage Page 7
#1463
Rexxy
iTrader: (40)
I attached pics of 18x10.5 +12's all around with 265/35's in the rear with just a roll. The link is of the shop that did my pull. He pretty much documents everything he does. I am about half way down the page in the link which will show what the 18x10.5 +12 with the 295's look like on the stock rear with a roll and progress to what it looks like with the pull. I am not sure if this link will hold up as he post more. You may need to go back through the pages as he adds more posts. The shots are close ups so not the greatest but you will get the idea. My cars on jack stands now as I am doing some updates
Sakura Garage Page 7
Sakura Garage Page 7
You had Gregg do your fenders? he is pretty good at it
#1465
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Gregg is a good guy and very good at what he does. I'll defiantly be going back to do some body and paint touch ups very soon.
#1466
The Beast is here..
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Hey guys, would an 18x11 +20 in the rear need trailing arms and a pull?? My brother has some wheels from his old 240, just rims no tires. Wanna know if they would work on the FD before picking them up. 18x9.5 +20 fronts, 18x11 +20 rears.
-thanks!
-thanks!
#1468
The Beast is here..
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Tires in the rear probably a 295, don't have the need for a 3+ tires. How far would the rears stick out?? I dont mind pulling the rear fender and rolling the front, I just dont want a widebody.
Car would be mostly used to cruise/car meets. I dont want to dump it, just clean drop, I really would like to close the wheel gap and fill out the wheel wells with some flushness.
Car would be mostly used to cruise/car meets. I dont want to dump it, just clean drop, I really would like to close the wheel gap and fill out the wheel wells with some flushness.
#1469
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
We have to work with some definitions-
Flush= put a straight edge across the wheel lip and it contacts bottom wheel lip, top wheel lip and vehicle outer fender.
Hellaflush= Put a straight edge across the wheel lip and it contacts the bottom wheel lip, the top wheel lip and there is gap to the vehicle outer fender- ie Hellaflush sticks out some from the body.
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My rear 18x10.5 +38 is exactly flush with -2 deg camber as per above definition.
My front 18x10.5 +38 is hellaflush by 10mm with -2.4 deg (max) camber.
You can see the side shot of my vehicle earlier in the thread to see how much flush you want.
Each degree of negative camber will gain you 10.9mm at the top edge of a 25" tall tire.
You really should get your vehicle at the ride height and camber you want and then measure for exact wheel width and offset you desire for the correct flushness.
I am going with 18x11 +45 with 295 front/rear which again will be exactly the same in terms of flushness as my previous fitment, but with basically very little/no stretch.
+45 offset is just right to center the tire for max tire fitment front and rear, 11" wide is the max you can fit with this +45 offset with stock trailing arms. Thats how I arrived at this fitment.
Flush= put a straight edge across the wheel lip and it contacts bottom wheel lip, top wheel lip and vehicle outer fender.
Hellaflush= Put a straight edge across the wheel lip and it contacts the bottom wheel lip, the top wheel lip and there is gap to the vehicle outer fender- ie Hellaflush sticks out some from the body.
---------------------
My rear 18x10.5 +38 is exactly flush with -2 deg camber as per above definition.
My front 18x10.5 +38 is hellaflush by 10mm with -2.4 deg (max) camber.
You can see the side shot of my vehicle earlier in the thread to see how much flush you want.
Each degree of negative camber will gain you 10.9mm at the top edge of a 25" tall tire.
You really should get your vehicle at the ride height and camber you want and then measure for exact wheel width and offset you desire for the correct flushness.
I am going with 18x11 +45 with 295 front/rear which again will be exactly the same in terms of flushness as my previous fitment, but with basically very little/no stretch.
+45 offset is just right to center the tire for max tire fitment front and rear, 11" wide is the max you can fit with this +45 offset with stock trailing arms. Thats how I arrived at this fitment.
#1470
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (10)
Tires in the rear probably a 295, don't have the need for a 3+ tires. How far would the rears stick out?? I dont mind pulling the rear fender and rolling the front, I just dont want a widebody.
Car would be mostly used to cruise/car meets. I dont want to dump it, just clean drop, I really would like to close the wheel gap and fill out the wheel wells with some flushness.
Car would be mostly used to cruise/car meets. I dont want to dump it, just clean drop, I really would like to close the wheel gap and fill out the wheel wells with some flushness.
#1472
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This is going to sound lame given sizes, stretches and spacers I've been reading about until this page, so apologies in advance for cramping your style...
I have Enkei RPF1 17", they are 8 front and 9 rear. They are new rims, I need to buy tires, so here's the question, asking for suggestions.
225/45 front and 255/40 rear, or
235/40 front and 255/40 rear, or
245/40 front and 255/40 rear, or
245/40 front and 245/40 rear?
Other info:
1) The car is sitting on Tein SS and dropped about 1" from stock.
2) I want to keep a balanced car
3) I don't care at all for stretching and spacers, don't want any of that.
4) I am driving the car around for fun and perhaps tracking it occasionally, for fun.
I welcome any input.
I have Enkei RPF1 17", they are 8 front and 9 rear. They are new rims, I need to buy tires, so here's the question, asking for suggestions.
225/45 front and 255/40 rear, or
235/40 front and 255/40 rear, or
245/40 front and 255/40 rear, or
245/40 front and 245/40 rear?
Other info:
1) The car is sitting on Tein SS and dropped about 1" from stock.
2) I want to keep a balanced car
3) I don't care at all for stretching and spacers, don't want any of that.
4) I am driving the car around for fun and perhaps tracking it occasionally, for fun.
I welcome any input.
#1473
I can confirm.
iTrader: (3)
This is going to sound lame given sizes, stretches and spacers I've been reading about until this page, so apologies in advance for cramping your style...
I have Enkei RPF1 17", they are 8 front and 9 rear. They are new rims, I need to buy tires, so here's the question, asking for suggestions.
225/45 front and 255/40 rear, or
235/40 front and 255/40 rear, or
245/40 front and 255/40 rear, or
245/40 front and 245/40 rear?
Other info:
1) The car is sitting on Tein SS and dropped about 1" from stock.
2) I want to keep a balanced car
3) I don't care at all for stretching and spacers, don't want any of that.
4) I am driving the car around for fun and perhaps tracking it occasionally, for fun.
I welcome any input.
I have Enkei RPF1 17", they are 8 front and 9 rear. They are new rims, I need to buy tires, so here's the question, asking for suggestions.
225/45 front and 255/40 rear, or
235/40 front and 255/40 rear, or
245/40 front and 255/40 rear, or
245/40 front and 245/40 rear?
Other info:
1) The car is sitting on Tein SS and dropped about 1" from stock.
2) I want to keep a balanced car
3) I don't care at all for stretching and spacers, don't want any of that.
4) I am driving the car around for fun and perhaps tracking it occasionally, for fun.
I welcome any input.
The Stock 99spec FD's in japan come factory with 235/45/17 and 255/40/17.
If you ran those sizes with tires that have a UTQG rating of 300 and below you should be ok. the Speedometer will still read fairly accurate as well. good luck
#1475
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Thanks!
PS, I dont' knwo what the UTQG rating is either, but I'm going to find out right now!