Pics of Shot Struts
05-09-07, 12:21 PM
#1
Pics of Shot Struts
Finnaly its SHOT. My whole suspention is fked.. but the rear has lowered itself as if it where aftermarket, the rear are the biggest issue atm....... Stock struts 14 years old, at 81,123 have failed me..now my dd had to go into a suspended state of animation because i got dont have any $$ atm for the ones i want..so anyone know some one selling used ones?
heres how it looks like
heres how it looks like
05-09-07, 05:01 PM
#2
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Wow, it definitely looks slammed. I'm running the Tokico Illuminas and love them, not to mention Tokico's customer service is by far the best I've come in contact with.
05-09-07, 05:32 PM
#6
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Isint not having money and owing a Financial Disaster a bad idea? 
Since shocks aren't the ones holding the car up I think it's probably dead springs\bushings too.
Since shocks aren't the ones holding the car up I think it's probably dead springs\bushings too.
05-09-07, 07:00 PM
#7
That's the worst I have ever seen for sure. The majority of the problem is probably the upper shock mounts, the rubber compresses a LOT over the years. I guess your springs might be sagging as well, a blown shock shouldn't change your ride height at all.
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05-10-07, 07:18 AM
#9
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ock+suspension
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=miles
Both are pretty recent and don't indicate that they're sold.
And fix that wheel stud too! It's not a Honda.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=miles
Both are pretty recent and don't indicate that they're sold.
And fix that wheel stud too! It's not a Honda.
05-10-07, 08:07 AM
#10
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
your 235/45/17 tires are 25.3 inches high. it appears that your fender lip is approx 25 inches from the ground.
i recommend running a 25 inch ride height front and rear for max street/track performance. if you run stock springs your car should be running at approx 27 inches in the front and rear.
the rubber pad at between the spring and the body is at most 1/2 inch thick. while it may have aged it isn't your problem. the rear spring rides on a bolt thru the upper A arm. that's not your problem. the lower control arm connects outboard w a bolt. not a problem. there are two rubber bushings one forward and one inboard. due to the negative leverage they are also not your problem.
the shock has no effect on ride height. (o k, it supports 13 pounds due to the nitrogen charge). BTW, the FD does not have "struts." toyotas have struts. the FD has spring and shocks like real racecars.
that eliminates everything but the spring. are you certain that you have stock FD springs in the car?
i have had a shock dyno and a digital spring rate checker.... i have tested over 30 stock FD shocks. all but one tested EXACTLY the same. they ranged from 3000 original miles to over 100,000 miles.
i have tested lots of FD springs. they all tested the same.
if for some reason you have the some weird springs in the car it is possible for the springs to not support the shock and the shock could have bottomed out which would destroy it and lead to "bouncing." a damaged shock will not effect ride height.
unless your wheel offset is wrong a 25 inch ride height w proper rated springs will not damage your tires. my wife's FD runs Eibach springs at very close to 25 inches, w a 17 X10 SSR wheel and 275 tires. no problem w the stock shocks which work great BTW.
so your problem is w your springs... and that may have damaged your shocks. the OEM shocks work great and there should be tons around if you advertise in the classifieds. as to your shocks.... you should be able to get a set for shipping. check first to see if you have hydraulic fluid leaking out of the top of the shock body. then, remove them and see if they still have their gas pressure. check also for resistance in stroke.
keep us posted and good luck,
howard coleman
i recommend running a 25 inch ride height front and rear for max street/track performance. if you run stock springs your car should be running at approx 27 inches in the front and rear.
the rubber pad at between the spring and the body is at most 1/2 inch thick. while it may have aged it isn't your problem. the rear spring rides on a bolt thru the upper A arm. that's not your problem. the lower control arm connects outboard w a bolt. not a problem. there are two rubber bushings one forward and one inboard. due to the negative leverage they are also not your problem.
the shock has no effect on ride height. (o k, it supports 13 pounds due to the nitrogen charge). BTW, the FD does not have "struts." toyotas have struts. the FD has spring and shocks like real racecars.
that eliminates everything but the spring. are you certain that you have stock FD springs in the car?
i have had a shock dyno and a digital spring rate checker.... i have tested over 30 stock FD shocks. all but one tested EXACTLY the same. they ranged from 3000 original miles to over 100,000 miles.
i have tested lots of FD springs. they all tested the same.
if for some reason you have the some weird springs in the car it is possible for the springs to not support the shock and the shock could have bottomed out which would destroy it and lead to "bouncing." a damaged shock will not effect ride height.
unless your wheel offset is wrong a 25 inch ride height w proper rated springs will not damage your tires. my wife's FD runs Eibach springs at very close to 25 inches, w a 17 X10 SSR wheel and 275 tires. no problem w the stock shocks which work great BTW.
so your problem is w your springs... and that may have damaged your shocks. the OEM shocks work great and there should be tons around if you advertise in the classifieds. as to your shocks.... you should be able to get a set for shipping. check first to see if you have hydraulic fluid leaking out of the top of the shock body. then, remove them and see if they still have their gas pressure. check also for resistance in stroke.
keep us posted and good luck,
howard coleman
05-10-07, 03:55 PM
#11
your 235/45/17 tires are 25.3 inches high. it appears that your fender lip is approx 25 inches from the ground.
i recommend running a 25 inch ride height front and rear for max street/track performance. if you run stock springs your car should be running at approx 27 inches in the front and rear.
the rubber pad at between the spring and the body is at most 1/2 inch thick. while it may have aged it isn't your problem. the rear spring rides on a bolt thru the upper A arm. that's not your problem. the lower control arm connects outboard w a bolt. not a problem. there are two rubber bushings one forward and one inboard. due to the negative leverage they are also not your problem.
the shock has no effect on ride height. (o k, it supports 13 pounds due to the nitrogen charge). BTW, the FD does not have "struts." toyotas have struts. the FD has spring and shocks like real racecars.
that eliminates everything but the spring. are you certain that you have stock FD springs in the car?
i have had a shock dyno and a digital spring rate checker.... i have tested over 30 stock FD shocks. all but one tested EXACTLY the same. they ranged from 3000 original miles to over 100,000 miles.
i have tested lots of FD springs. they all tested the same.
if for some reason you have the some weird springs in the car it is possible for the springs to not support the shock and the shock could have bottomed out which would destroy it and lead to "bouncing." a damaged shock will not effect ride height.
unless your wheel offset is wrong a 25 inch ride height w proper rated springs will not damage your tires. my wife's FD runs Eibach springs at very close to 25 inches, w a 17 X10 SSR wheel and 275 tires. no problem w the stock shocks which work great BTW.
so your problem is w your springs... and that may have damaged your shocks. the OEM shocks work great and there should be tons around if you advertise in the classifieds. as to your shocks.... you should be able to get a set for shipping. check first to see if you have hydraulic fluid leaking out of the top of the shock body. then, remove them and see if they still have their gas pressure. check also for resistance in stroke.
keep us posted and good luck,
howard coleman
i recommend running a 25 inch ride height front and rear for max street/track performance. if you run stock springs your car should be running at approx 27 inches in the front and rear.
the rubber pad at between the spring and the body is at most 1/2 inch thick. while it may have aged it isn't your problem. the rear spring rides on a bolt thru the upper A arm. that's not your problem. the lower control arm connects outboard w a bolt. not a problem. there are two rubber bushings one forward and one inboard. due to the negative leverage they are also not your problem.
the shock has no effect on ride height. (o k, it supports 13 pounds due to the nitrogen charge). BTW, the FD does not have "struts." toyotas have struts. the FD has spring and shocks like real racecars.
that eliminates everything but the spring. are you certain that you have stock FD springs in the car?
i have had a shock dyno and a digital spring rate checker.... i have tested over 30 stock FD shocks. all but one tested EXACTLY the same. they ranged from 3000 original miles to over 100,000 miles.
i have tested lots of FD springs. they all tested the same.
if for some reason you have the some weird springs in the car it is possible for the springs to not support the shock and the shock could have bottomed out which would destroy it and lead to "bouncing." a damaged shock will not effect ride height.
unless your wheel offset is wrong a 25 inch ride height w proper rated springs will not damage your tires. my wife's FD runs Eibach springs at very close to 25 inches, w a 17 X10 SSR wheel and 275 tires. no problem w the stock shocks which work great BTW.
so your problem is w your springs... and that may have damaged your shocks. the OEM shocks work great and there should be tons around if you advertise in the classifieds. as to your shocks.... you should be able to get a set for shipping. check first to see if you have hydraulic fluid leaking out of the top of the shock body. then, remove them and see if they still have their gas pressure. check also for resistance in stroke.
keep us posted and good luck,
howard coleman
yes im sure its stock iv had the car for 2 in a half years and i would remeber the hight of the car.. it is stock. car my rotary mech even said so
the ride is very very rough and i feel everything not like when i first got the car
05-10-07, 07:48 PM
#13
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
i suggest you advertise in the classifieds for a set of stock springs and shocks. most people throw them in the back of their shop after upgrading. you should be able to get a set for shipping costs if you work at it. stipulate no hydraulic leakage on the shocks. if you wish you could probably snag a set of Eibach Pro Kit springs which work great w the stock shocks and are not harsh riding. probable cost $100 and worth it.
howard
howard
05-12-07, 10:12 PM
#17
strike up the paean
conceptually it seems blown shocks shouldn't affect ride height.
in practice however, it seems to do exactly just that.
a local on blown k-sports had his rear left corner dumped like all hell.
not to mention the numerous janky ghetto cars that drive around jersey with bouncing rear ends.
at any rate, if you can't afford some new shocks... i dunno how you pay car insurance and stuff. money must be tight. good luck man.
in practice however, it seems to do exactly just that.
a local on blown k-sports had his rear left corner dumped like all hell.
not to mention the numerous janky ghetto cars that drive around jersey with bouncing rear ends.
at any rate, if you can't afford some new shocks... i dunno how you pay car insurance and stuff. money must be tight. good luck man.
05-13-07, 03:06 PM
#18
conceptually it seems blown shocks shouldn't affect ride height.
in practice however, it seems to do exactly just that.
a local on blown k-sports had his rear left corner dumped like all hell.
not to mention the numerous janky ghetto cars that drive around jersey with bouncing rear ends.
at any rate, if you can't afford some new shocks... i dunno how you pay car insurance and stuff. money must be tight. good luck man.
in practice however, it seems to do exactly just that.
a local on blown k-sports had his rear left corner dumped like all hell.
not to mention the numerous janky ghetto cars that drive around jersey with bouncing rear ends.
at any rate, if you can't afford some new shocks... i dunno how you pay car insurance and stuff. money must be tight. good luck man.
im prob getting used ones from a fourm member but not that i cheaked the car had risen a little and is not as low in the pics first posted.. but i have $ for the car just no 1k extra just sitting around for the coilovers i want
