i agree that it is the % front rear relationship that is a factor in determining roll couple or over/understeer.

the stock FD is 263/195. meaning the rear is 74% of front. flowed thru differing motion ratios we get a slightly tighter number but since it is a constant we can disregard it...


anyway 15/10 is 66%. keeping the stock 74% ratio would require 11.1 KG springs. you are correct in that the 15/10 would have a modest tendency to understeer/push.

we will see shortly.

hc

 

Howard,
I know, too, that almost all factory cars are tuned to understeer a bit at the limit anyway, the thinking being that it's safer for the average driver. Of course nobody who tracks these cars has a stock car anyway, so the balance is likely being affected by other factors as well.

 

Some say that a softer car turns better, and that it would be better to run it with the stiffest anti roll bars. All we know is he's called the stig

errr that got wrong, this is not Top Gear :P

well all i know is this, i used to run the Tein RE coilovers that where 16/16 and with my setup i had understeer understeer understeer. I had a rear diffuser and the REA GT wing. The setup was even but probably not the best, but after giving it more front downforce it worked alot better.

Now i have orderd the stage III's and will work alot more on the setup of the car. Will be starting off with the stock swaybars front and rear. Might start with the front one off, set the camber and toe correct and then work with the coilovers to get a good set point. Then also work with tire pressure and maybe see if we need to adjust camber or toe.

This is gonna be on a street driven car, so the camber and toe will not be too sick. The sick setup will happen on the 4 rotor race car that will be built this winter.

About the comp springs i hope someone(howard) will have some test results before i order them this winter

JT

 

I have had the comp series in for a bit now and the car gets equal time on the track and the street.
They perform beautifully on both. I think some of us are getting ahead of ourselves. I purchased the comp series on Cam's suggestion that they would give me the performance I was looking for on the track but with drivability. I didn't want to sacrifice track control for smooth street driving. I haven't. The car handles like a race car(track and street) and rides like my cadi.
I don't believe that I or most of us here will be driving these cars to the ragged edge like the serious racers on this forum.
I bought the comp series because I wanted the best I could put under the car for the track. There are more expensive very complex setups available but these are purpose built for our chassis. And they do their job. the car so much more responsive and so much quicker into and out of corners at Sebring than it had been with the Tokico setup, that I had to re-learn my line and my shift points on the course because I was running out of gear so much earlier after each turn.
My bottom line, If you are going to race the car at all, you should set the car up for the track. Every guy who has ever driven a race car understands that he has sacrificed a little comfort to be able to really put the car through its paces if he turns the corner and the road opens up into a beautiful set of s-turns.
At least that's why I drive one.

 

Hello Community.

Has anyone had trouble installing the Stage II's, or any of the 3 versions really - specifically, has anyone had to file down the lower cylinders of the front coilovers so they would fit between that joint on the lower arm? It seems one of mine is about 1mm too wide and it will not fit at all. I didn't pull out the other one to test it...I was just so upset at that one. Someone please advise. Go at it with a file?

(((Now I need to vent....you may skip this. Today I probably hated the car the most I've ever hated it. Just once can a part fit, can a bolt easily loosen, can things be just the way it's supposed to be? Is that too much to ask? I know the car is old and bits and pieces are frozen but what the heck? Really? Starting with the rear left shock, the lower bolt will not loosen at all. Completely stuck. PB Blaster and all. I moved to the front left and it took some time but I got the previous shock out. No frozen bolts. Nice! Ready to put the new Trak Pro's in and BAM...will not fit. I push and squeeze and pry and it won't fit. The rubber protective sleeve is already getting worn too. I hate wearing out new parts before they are in the car. Since I have no garage, I have to put everything back together using the previous shock. Seven hours for nothing. (Understand, a lot of my time is spent learning and thinking and staring at the difficult parts and wondering "why can't this be easy," as opposed to banging away at it like a real mechanic would. But that's the rub, I want it done but I want it done with love, hence DIY.) This is not an easy job solo too - that hub and coilover are heavy and difficult to negotiate...especially with my OCD and desire to not hit anything in the wheel well.)))

I'm extremely discouraged right now and contemplating my decision to do this install myself. As always, thanks for listening and helping.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ilover+install

See post #17.

If you haven't seen that thread already, highly recommend reading it before you re-attempt.

Don't worry about being too gentle with it. Sometimes these parts need a few slaps and yanks to fit the way they're supposed to... especially if this is the first time these parts have been taken off or serviced for a while.

 

anyone doing a coil-over swap needs to know the following BEFORE they pick up any tools!

thanks to Neil ...

"Originally Posted by lukes
Did anyone else notice it was very hard to get the bottom of strut bolt back in? (tight fit) , my adjusty's i had brought second hand had turned out to be duds, Ohlins circlip ? anyone used these?
Anyway, just found the Original Suspension a very tight fit at the bottom of the strut. Had to bust out the file :S

The lower A-arm has an adjustable friction-fit sleeve/spacer/metal-bushing where the bottom of the shock mounts.

If you CANNOT get the bottom of the shock in easily, then you take another bolt , some washers, and a nut and "pull" /////actually it is push, not pull/////the spacer OUT. The shock will go in with lots of clearance.
When you tighten the bottom shock bolt, it will pull in the adjustable sleeve.

FWIW, I use a little anti-seize as the sleeve is steel, and the A-arm is aluminum, just in case. . .

In short, no need to use a file, or even a hammer to move that adjustable lower A-arm shock mount spacer/bushing.

More importantly, the Factory Manual makes no mention of this!

More info here:

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php?...61=&postcount=3

:-) neil"


the FD has aluminum A arms front and rear. both have a steel inserts. the insert slides when the mounting bolt is tightened. when you remove the lower mounting point no problems... however when you install the sleeve provides no clearance and needs to be spread apart.

it is really easy... get a 6 inch length of 3/8 threaded rod, a couple of nuts and 2 washers. w the shock out, slide the treaded rod into the sleeve, add a washer, two nuts and a washer slide the sleeve completely thru the lower control arm. turn the nuts so the washers exert pressure on the two sleeves, pushing them apart. presto, you have clearance and your lower mount will drop right in. when you replace the lower mounting bolt and tighten the nut the spacers will snug up against the shock mount.

easy if you know how. real difficult if you don't.

put down the file (yikes) and hammer

howard

 

Well, that was easy. Thanks for the info. I was all over that thread before I started too - reading and re-reading it. I guess that blurb didn't make much sense before I started but now it makes perfect sense. It's so simple. I have no excuse to why I didn't re-read it while in the middle of this work yesterday like I usually do other than being too lazy and stubborn....which is really bugging me now.

Live and learn. Read and learn. Putting the file and hammer down. Many thanks again.

Now, any tips on removing that dreaded bolt without purchasing an impact driver? PB Blaster and lots and lots of patience? I think I need a pipe to create more torque and leverage using a regular socket. My torque wrenches are maxing out and it still won't budge.

 

PB blaster and a pipe for leverage. It'll come. Also, make sure you're trying to turn it the correct way.

 

I hate using a TQ wrench to break bolts loose but after I was well into my second day of working on it my neighbor offered me his to use. It was a pain but it started to come loose. Now I'd just spray it with PB Blaster, WD40, w/e I can find that seems to lubricate and let it sit and revisit it occasionally wacking it with a hammer to try to shock it loose. I even wiggle it back and forth to just allow it to penetrate more thoroughly and then I'll work on it sometime in the next day. (I've heard a mini-torch can help as well (don't combine with the PB). I also carefully braced myself against the car and pulled downward. I wound up cutting myself on the exhaust heat shield on the passenger side (saw it coming from a mile away as well). I can share in your frustration as I've cursed this car to no end. Have faith. There's a light at the end of the tunnel (so I tell myself anyways). Next time you need to remove them though it's much easier. Good luck.


I'm really excited to see more reviews of these Pettit coilovers. If running a large spoiler on the rear, one would want stiffer rates as well correct? Would the Stage IIIs suffice or would this be the point where you'd be looking at going with the Comp Series?

 

A hand torch from ACE to break the factory locktite + a $13 2ft long break over bar from any auto parts store = many years of trouble free bolts. Im always amazed how many people try to defeat locktite parts with an impact wrench or brute force and then wonder why they always break the bolts/studs.

 

What a difference a little bit of knowledge can do. I'll add a visual aid since I'm a visual person....it would of helped me so maybe it'll help someone else. To think that I was going to file it too... I would have never forgave myself. Such a simple contraption, yet so powerful!! Thanks for setting me straight usma and Howard...this site rules. I added an extra washer but you don't really need that one outside...as the experts said: bolt, 2 washers, 2 nuts....tighten both at the same time to squeeze them outward. Brilliant. I got the fronts done today in near 100 degree heat...and will be tackling the rears another day..and that nemesis bolt I have. Thanks for the tips, the Home Depot guy recommended a blowtorch too. Breaker bar, pipe, and more PB first though. (Jeez, this simple device fascinates me....you can't be expecting me to handle a blowtorch near the gas tank do you? Baby steps.)

Can't wait to feel the new ride once it's done. With the Beltway construction here, the roads are terrible everywhere and it felt like I was hurting the chassis with every bump on the stocker rears and tokico fronts the previous owner slapped on whenever. Stock springs all around. The ride was painful and bone-jarring. These are new but they are still more for the track than the street...so...we'll see....I have no idea what to expect. But everyone wants Stage IIIs now so my IIs should be just fine I'm hoping. I just hope it's more comfortable. We'll see.

 

Ahhh i just checked the tracking number i got from pettit and the coilovers are in customs right now

Looking forward to getting them. So next week i start on rebuilding my FD to street use with the 4 rotor :P

It's faster and cheaper then putting in the brand new built 13b-rew BP engine i also have. That needs some more work and tuning before i can drive it :P

Sorry for alittle off topic but.
Anyone got a good place to get some wide rims that don't cost an arm and a leg. Looking for either 17" or 18" wheels in 11" and 12" front and rear.

JT

 

Any update? Me wantie coiloverz!

 

my Comps arrive this friday. i will then have a set Stage 3 and Comps to compare. unfortunately the Blackhawk test day will be a few weeks off as i have a small amount of work to do on the car when it returns from Beyond Redline next week, as well as the 4 turbo dyno session. i will be driving the car, however, and my PerformanceBox and tie wraps will give me some early clues.

hc

 

I'm having a set of Stage 2 installed at Pettit right now. Just bought a new FD and first things first, the blown Tokicos/Vogtland springs have to go.


Will report back soon!

-M

 

Damn I'm really craving stage 2's right now!

 

Looks like these might be made by RG (racing gear) in Japan:

http://www.rx7boutique.com/images/racinggear.jpg
http://www.racinggear.co.jp/

 

It's possible though the colors don't match. The body looks the same.

 

It may be custom built for Cam based on their shock bodies, so they anodize his stuff a different color—same way the old M2 coilover kit was just a black-anodized GC kit. But, the gold is still there.

Looks like he added his own upper mount design, or they changed it.

 

so i got my coilovers on thursday. they look realy nice. to bad i wont be able to drive them before next year as i put my plans on hold to get the car on the road this year.

JT

 

i got my stage III's in a while back. Finally got a chance to install and drive on them. They definitely reduce the amount of body roll but feel no worse on the street for daily driving than my Eibachs did. At least over normal roads. I live in an area of town that still has brick streets, but my house is the 2nd one in and I only have to drive 2 houses worth of brick road to get to my driveway Now driving the car down the brick back streets it is obviously stiffer and has a harsher ride. But who drives on brick roads. On regular stuff, it is pretty compliant. I am still trying to find the best front to rear setting on the shocks. The car feels fine and pretty neutral on slow speed corners, but on high speed stuff, it feels kind of floaty. It could be the alignment. I plan to recheck it Monday. It just seems that while taking a high speed corner, any unevenness in the road or steering input change makes the car get unsettled.

One thing i do notice and that is concurrent with Howards view is that while I experience less roll, I don't necessarily feel like I have more ultimate grip in the corners. Maybe even less. Until I get it dialed in though, that is just anecdotal info. My thinking is that the stiffer springs don't allow as much camber gain. I may need to start with higher static camber settings. I am curious how Howard sets up his stage III's and Comps compared to the Stage I's or II's.

 

"kind of floaty"

high speed floaty is generally shock settings. maybe dial them up a bit.

lots of intersting comments in your post... it will be interesting to measure travel w the various TrakPro packages and yes camber gain will be a factor.

i am liking (on paper for now) the Stage 2 as they are 10/8 yet have the 24 adj shocks, the independent (of lower spring mount) ride height adj and a friendly price...

hc

 

I finally got those rear bolts removed to finish off installing the Stage II's (in the end, it was the blowtorch.) I've only driven 20 miles or so with them, pre-alignment and pre-final ride height, but I can tell it feels much better. At the midway settings - 12 clicks - ride comfort is definitely noticeably better than the old shock and spring set-up. Once I get it adjusted and aligned, I'll take some corners. (Next project: the clunking.....bushings and pillowballs. Ugh.)

One thing though. You guys leave this alone - the gap where that top cap use to be? I'd rather not have anything dropping in there. What would you do to cover it up?

 

You could prob find a rubber grommet at the auto store to fit that hole and seal it up