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I have gotten and still get pm's asking about my wheel and tire setup. So I figured that I would make a post, for the future people inquiring, to share my setup. I no longer have the car and do not make it to this site as often as I once did. Really miss the rx7 world. Got my first 2nd gen in 1995. Went through many 2nd gens and then onto my 3rd gen. Thinking about getting back into 3rd gens or 911's. Currently have a lancer daily and a nicer daily of 650hp bmw 535 Hybrid audio demo car. Its a decent nicer daily but why do I have 2 daily drivers?
First setup:
Volk GT-7
front 18x9+44 dunlap starspec 255
rear 18x10+44 dunlap starspec 275
no rolling required. rears came very close to control arms on inside. still had room to move out towards lip. could get a finger in space between tire and metal. safe setup.
second setup: (the one everyone asks about)
Volk Te37sl
front 18x9.5+22 hankook v12evo 245
rear 18x10.5+22 hankook v12evo 275
Rear camber was approximately -2.5. I do believe fronts were near stock angle. car was on Stance coilovers at full drop on the rears(both lower locks were still on, could have probably taken one off since it was full drop). It is very important to understand that I bought these wheels and made the car fit them. the car was at the bodyshop and we rolled the lips (front and back) and pulled the rear quarter panels to "fit" the wheels. you cannot really tell the rears are pulled. some people pull the rears and force the metal into a overfender look. We pulled the quarter and stretched the entire quarter so it looks stock. After doing the metal work we had 4 guys sit in the back and compress the travel to ensure no rubbing. throughout travel we could only barely get 1 credit card in between the tire and the metal quarter. After all that, the entire car was painted.
any questions? please post here so everyone can learn
Would Rear 18x10 +22 work without pulling? Or would Rear 18x9.5 +22 work better? All my readings I think 18x9.5 +22 all around would work great with no pulling?
7_rocket
Would Rear 18x10 +22 work without pulling? Or would Rear 18x9.5 +22 work better? All my readings I think 18x9.5 +22 all around would work great with no pulling?
You have it wrong.
The wheel width doesn't matter- just the offset and those wheels are all the same +22 offset so would be limited to the same 235mm to 245mm (depending on how much camber) wide tire without a fender roll.
7_rocket
Would Rear 18x10 +22 work without pulling? Or would Rear 18x9.5 +22 work better? All my readings I think 18x9.5 +22 all around would work great with no pulling?
You have it wrong.
The wheel width doesn't matter- just the offset and those wheels are all the same +22 offset so would be limited to the same 235mm to 245mm (depending on how much camber) wide tire without a fender roll.
Uh? offset centers the wheel width. So a 10 +22 sticks out further than a 9.5 +22. By about 6mm.
And neither of those really fit the stock body.
I have 18x10 +42 rears with 275/35/18. I got ahold of a 1" spacer (25.4mm), which should have efectively made the wheel a +16.6... it looked like it stuck out by a mile. I'm now running a 5mm spacer (+38), and it looks CLOSE on a stock unrolled fender. I may stack another on there to just look at +33 in my garage, but I think that'll hit the lip.
+22 won't work on a stock fender, unless maybe you're running some tiny stretched tire.
Edit. I mean't to say, no pulling but rolling fenders is totally fine
The FD rear fender lip is pretty strong so you are going to have a hard time rolling it without any incidental pull. I was quite gentle on my rear fender archs just rolling the lip under enough to fit my 295/45-18 on 18x11 +45 (lip not even rolled flat against the outside sheetmetal) and it left a faint arch over the wheel well you can see in the reflection of the paint.
With just the rear lip rolled under and a +22 offset you should be able to fit 245mm to 265mm wide tire depending on actual tire width and how much camber you want to run.
Front will need a roll and moderate pull and definitely max camber to fit the same as the back.
Can't get any more exact than that.
Once you start fitting the car to the wheels instead of the wheels to the car you just have to decide how brave you feel.
245 wide would be safe bet, 255 might need you to max camber, 265 would be living dangerously if you are trying to avoid a pull.
Uh? offset centers the wheel width. So a 10 +22 sticks out further than a 9.5 +22. By about 6mm.
And neither of those really fit the stock body.
Yes, the wider wheel will stick out further with the same offset, but the tire outer tread block will be in exactly the same spot with the same offset and actually have a better shape for not catching the fender the wider the wheel is (to a point).
If you go to extremes like 20" diameter wheels or 12" wide wheels you might have to start worrying about the wheel hitting the fender arch. Most of us worry about the tire hitting.
Would Rear 18x10 +22 work without pulling? Or would Rear 18x9.5 +22 work better? All my readings I think 18x9.5 +22 all around would work great with no pulling?
if your asking about te37's, they dont make a 10, only 10.5 and 9.5
Originally Posted by BLUE TII
7_rocket
Would Rear 18x10 +22 work without pulling? Or would Rear 18x9.5 +22 work better? All my readings I think 18x9.5 +22 all around would work great with no pulling?
You have it wrong.
The wheel width doesn't matter- just the offset and those wheels are all the same +22 offset so would be limited to the same 235mm to 245mm (depending on how much camber) wide tire without a fender roll.
wheel width would also matter. my rear setup of 18x10.5+22 would be 0.5 wider on inside and outside than a 18x9.5+22. or 12.7mm. effectively making the 18x9.5+22 look like a 18x9.5+34.7 compared to a wider 10.5 wheel.
I have run out of time today. will answer other questions tomorrow
Wheel width is going to matter if you are planning on tucking rim.
Even then you have the camber gain of the suspension working for you tucking the tire and wheel inward by the time you compress the suspension far enough to get down to the wheel lip.
Uh? offset centers the wheel width. So a 10 +22 sticks out further than a 9.5 +22. By about 6mm.
And neither of those really fit the stock body.
correct. and correct on not fitting a stock body. although a 9.5+22 rear would probably only require to roll the lip. as stated in my first setup, I had 18x10+44 with approximately 0.5" of space between tire and stock lip in rear. so a 18x9.5+22 would be ~3mm into the stock lip in rear. I did not specify, but my first setup was near stock camber and was on koni at max low. not as low as the stance.
Edit. I mean't to say, no pulling but rolling fenders is totally fine
that car isnt very low either. should be easy to roll fenders and fit. getting a 18x10.5+22 is a little harder
Originally Posted by ptrhahn
I have 18x10 +42 rears with 275/35/18. I got ahold of a 1" spacer (25.4mm), which should have efectively made the wheel a +16.6... it looked like it stuck out by a mile. I'm now running a 5mm spacer (+38), and it looks CLOSE on a stock unrolled fender. I may stack another on there to just look at +33 in my garage, but I think that'll hit the lip.
+22 won't work on a stock fender, unless maybe you're running some tiny stretched tire.
see above. a 9.5+22 might work on a stock fender with a 245-265 and camber. but I would rather roll the lip and not worry about it
Originally Posted by BLUE TII
7_rocket
Edit. I mean't to say, no pulling but rolling fenders is totally fine
The FD rear fender lip is pretty strong so you are going to have a hard time rolling it without any incidental pull. I was quite gentle on my rear fender archs just rolling the lip under enough to fit my 295/45-18 on 18x11 +45 (lip not even rolled flat against the outside sheetmetal) and it left a faint arch over the wheel well you can see in the reflection of the paint.
With just the rear lip rolled under and a +22 offset you should be able to fit 245mm to 265mm wide tire depending on actual tire width and how much camber you want to run.
Front will need a roll and moderate pull and definitely max camber to fit the same as the back.
Can't get any more exact than that.
Once you start fitting the car to the wheels instead of the wheels to the car you just have to decide how brave you feel.
245 wide would be safe bet, 255 might need you to max camber, 265 would be living dangerously if you are trying to avoid a pull.
Mine isn't a fitment for aesthetic purposes, but rather performance purposes.
18x11 +45 with 295/30-18 Ventus TD both Front and Rear.
Flush-
Well, when I place a straight edge against the lower lip of the wheel and the upper lip of the wheel it also just touches the upper fender arch- so I would call that flush.
Ride Height-
At the Ohlins recommended height. More low without roll center correction will lead to more body roll. My racing class does not allow roll center correction.
Mine isn't a fitment for aesthetic purposes, but rather performance purposes.
18x11 +45 with 295/30-18 Ventus TD both Front and Rear.
Flush-
Well, when I place a straight edge against the lower lip of the wheel and the upper lip of the wheel it also just touches the upper fender arch- so I would call that flush.
Ride Height-
At the Ohlins recommended height. More low without roll center correction will lead to more body roll. My racing class does not allow roll center correction.
I have gotten and still get pm's asking about my wheel and tire setup. So I figured that I would make a post, for the future people inquiring, to share my setup. I no longer have the car and do not make it to this site as often as I once did. Really miss the rx7 world. Got my first 2nd gen in 1995. Went through many 2nd gens and then onto my 3rd gen. Thinking about getting back into 3rd gens or 911's. Currently have a lancer daily and a nicer daily of 650hp bmw 535 Hybrid audio demo car. Its a decent nicer daily but why do I have 2 daily drivers?
First setup:
Volk GT-7
front 18x9+44 dunlap starspec 255
rear 18x10+44 dunlap starspec 275
no rolling required. rears came very close to control arms on inside. still had room to move out towards lip. could get a finger in space between tire and metal. safe setup.
second setup: (the one everyone asks about)
Volk Te37sl
front 18x9.5+22 hankook v12evo 245
rear 18x10.5+22 hankook v12evo 275
Rear camber was approximately -2.5. I do believe fronts were near stock angle. car was on Stance coilovers at full drop on the rears(both lower locks were still on, could have probably taken one off since it was full drop). It is very important to understand that I bought these wheels and made the car fit them. the car was at the bodyshop and we rolled the lips (front and back) and pulled the rear quarter panels to "fit" the wheels. you cannot really tell the rears are pulled. some people pull the rears and force the metal into a overfender look. We pulled the quarter and stretched the entire quarter so it looks stock. After doing the metal work we had 4 guys sit in the back and compress the travel to ensure no rubbing. throughout travel we could only barely get 1 credit card in between the tire and the metal quarter. After all that, the entire car was painted.
any questions? please post here so everyone can learn
I'm missing not buying this car! Hope all is well for you and your enjoying your new ride.
Can you still be flush and do canyon runs or even auto cross?
Depends on what your definition of "flush" fitment is.
If you mean wheels and tire sticking out past the fenders and the tires hitting the fenders before the suspension bottoms...
Then yes, but you either go slow or wreck when a tire rubs the body and basically puts the brakes on that corner, mid corner.
As I said, my set-up is technically flush (straight edge against lower wheel lip and upper wheel lip also rests on the fender arch), but most would say it is not an "aggressive" or "flush" fitment. My set-up has full suspension travel without the tire hitting anything.
I would divide flush fitments into functional flush and hella flush. Hella flush is basically when you go full retard.
RapidCancel
Did you need to roll the fenders or anything with that setup?
Definitely.
Roll and moderate pull on the front fenders and max camber (-2.4 deg)
Roll without a pull on the rear with minimum camber (-1.2 deg).
03-22-17, 09:21 AM
