onemoreclicks "flush" wheel setup
 

I have gotten and still get pm's asking about my wheel and tire setup. So I figured that I would make a post, for the future people inquiring, to share my setup. I no longer have the car and do not make it to this site as often as I once did. Really miss the rx7 world. Got my first 2nd gen in 1995. Went through many 2nd gens and then onto my 3rd gen. Thinking about getting back into 3rd gens or 911's. Currently have a lancer daily and a nicer daily of 650hp bmw 535 Hybrid audio demo car. Its a decent nicer daily but why do I have 2 daily drivers?

First setup: https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...fba56c56c0.jpg
Volk GT-7
front 18x9+44 dunlap starspec 255
rear 18x10+44 dunlap starspec 275
no rolling required. rears came very close to control arms on inside. still had room to move out towards lip. could get a finger in space between tire and metal. safe setup.

second setup: (the one everyone asks about) https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c405ac62a0.jpg
Volk Te37sl
front 18x9.5+22 hankook v12evo 245
rear 18x10.5+22 hankook v12evo 275

Rear camber was approximately -2.5. I do believe fronts were near stock angle. car was on Stance coilovers at full drop on the rears(both lower locks were still on, could have probably taken one off since it was full drop). It is very important to understand that I bought these wheels and made the car fit them. the car was at the bodyshop and we rolled the lips (front and back) and pulled the rear quarter panels to "fit" the wheels. you cannot really tell the rears are pulled. some people pull the rears and force the metal into a overfender look. We pulled the quarter and stretched the entire quarter so it looks stock. After doing the metal work we had 4 guys sit in the back and compress the travel to ensure no rubbing. throughout travel we could only barely get 1 credit card in between the tire and the metal quarter. After all that, the entire car was painted.

any questions? please post here so everyone can learn

Would Rear 18x10 +22 work without pulling? Or would Rear 18x9.5 +22 work better? All my readings I think 18x9.5 +22 all around would work great with no pulling?

7_rocket
Would Rear 18x10 +22 work without pulling? Or would Rear 18x9.5 +22 work better? All my readings I think 18x9.5 +22 all around would work great with no pulling?


You have it wrong.

The wheel width doesn't matter- just the offset and those wheels are all the same +22 offset so would be limited to the same 235mm to 245mm (depending on how much camber) wide tire without a fender roll.

Uh? offset centers the wheel width. So a 10 +22 sticks out further than a 9.5 +22. By about 6mm.
And neither of those really fit the stock body.

I was going off this gentleman's specs too

https://www.rx7club.com/wheels-tires...-22-a-1099839/

Edit. I mean't to say, no pulling but rolling fenders is totally fine

I have 18x10 +42 rears with 275/35/18. I got ahold of a 1" spacer (25.4mm), which should have efectively made the wheel a +16.6... it looked like it stuck out by a mile. I'm now running a 5mm spacer (+38), and it looks CLOSE on a stock unrolled fender. I may stack another on there to just look at +33 in my garage, but I think that'll hit the lip.

+22 won't work on a stock fender, unless maybe you're running some tiny stretched tire.

7_rocket

Edit. I mean't to say, no pulling but rolling fenders is totally fine



The FD rear fender lip is pretty strong so you are going to have a hard time rolling it without any incidental pull. I was quite gentle on my rear fender archs just rolling the lip under enough to fit my 295/45-18 on 18x11 +45 (lip not even rolled flat against the outside sheetmetal) and it left a faint arch over the wheel well you can see in the reflection of the paint.

With just the rear lip rolled under and a +22 offset you should be able to fit 245mm to 265mm wide tire depending on actual tire width and how much camber you want to run.

Front will need a roll and moderate pull and definitely max camber to fit the same as the back.

Can't get any more exact than that.
Once you start fitting the car to the wheels instead of the wheels to the car you just have to decide how brave you feel.
245 wide would be safe bet, 255 might need you to max camber, 265 would be living dangerously if you are trying to avoid a pull.

Narfle

Uh? offset centers the wheel width. So a 10 +22 sticks out further than a 9.5 +22. By about 6mm.
And neither of those really fit the stock body.

Yes, the wider wheel will stick out further with the same offset, but the tire outer tread block will be in exactly the same spot with the same offset and actually have a better shape for not catching the fender the wider the wheel is (to a point).

If you go to extremes like 20" diameter wheels or 12" wide wheels you might have to start worrying about the wheel hitting the fender arch. Most of us worry about the tire hitting.

if your asking about te37's, they dont make a 10, only 10.5 and 9.5


wheel width would also matter. my rear setup of 18x10.5+22 would be 0.5 wider on inside and outside than a 18x9.5+22. or 12.7mm. effectively making the 18x9.5+22 look like a 18x9.5+34.7 compared to a wider 10.5 wheel.

I have run out of time today. will answer other questions tomorrow :icon_tup:

Online Wheel and Tyre Fitment Calculator. Offset, Tyre Stretch and Speedo Error | Will They Fit

This site will help you visualize it.

Wheel width is going to matter if you are planning on tucking rim.

Even then you have the camber gain of the suspension working for you tucking the tire and wheel inward by the time you compress the suspension far enough to get down to the wheel lip.

correct. and correct on not fitting a stock body. although a 9.5+22 rear would probably only require to roll the lip. as stated in my first setup, I had 18x10+44 with approximately 0.5" of space between tire and stock lip in rear. so a 18x9.5+22 would be ~3mm into the stock lip in rear. I did not specify, but my first setup was near stock camber and was on koni at max low. not as low as the stance.

that car isnt very low either. should be easy to roll fenders and fit. getting a 18x10.5+22 is a little harder

see above. a 9.5+22 might work on a stock fender with a 245-265 and camber. but I would rather roll the lip and not worry about it

sounds like your doing it right! post a pic!

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8ea8f2af8d.jpg

here a better side shot of how flush it is

Mine isn't a fitment for aesthetic purposes, but rather performance purposes.

18x11 +45 with 295/30-18 Ventus TD both Front and Rear.

Flush-
Well, when I place a straight edge against the lower lip of the wheel and the upper lip of the wheel it also just touches the upper fender arch- so I would call that flush.

Ride Height-
At the Ohlins recommended height. More low without roll center correction will lead to more body roll. My racing class does not allow roll center correction.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e351fdee06.jpg

Very nice! is that 18x11+45 295, on all four? or just the ventus f/r at different sizes?

Yes, same fitment on all four corners with no spacers or anything.

Can you still be flush and do canyon runs or even auto cross?

Did you need to roll the fenders or anything with that setup?

BLUE TII is my trusted source for wheel fitment info. True asset to the community. :icon_tup:

I'm liking this:nod:

I'm missing not buying this car! Hope all is well for you and your enjoying your new ride.

Rocketeerbandit

Can you still be flush and do canyon runs or even auto cross?

Depends on what your definition of "flush" fitment is.

If you mean wheels and tire sticking out past the fenders and the tires hitting the fenders before the suspension bottoms...

Then yes, but you either go slow or wreck when a tire rubs the body and basically puts the brakes on that corner, mid corner.

As I said, my set-up is technically flush (straight edge against lower wheel lip and upper wheel lip also rests on the fender arch), but most would say it is not an "aggressive" or "flush" fitment. My set-up has full suspension travel without the tire hitting anything.

I would divide flush fitments into functional flush and hella flush. Hella flush is basically when you go full retard.



RapidCancel

Did you need to roll the fenders or anything with that setup?

Definitely.
Roll and moderate pull on the front fenders and max camber (-2.4 deg)
Roll without a pull on the rear with minimum camber (-1.2 deg).

Loving the second setup.

I have 17x9 +0 up front running a stretched 215/45/17 I want a wider tire something like a 225 or 245,is it doable ?

If needed I can pull the fender but like the stock look, fronts and rears are rolled flat.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7341/9...88f01ef3_z.jpg

Thanks.

Nope- would have to alter the shape of your fenders or add wide fenders.

Your 18x9 +0 wheels stick out 20mm further than my 18x11 +45 and the 215 just tucks the tread block into the same place as my 295s.

See this for a visual representation of what you are trying to do-
Online Wheel and Tyre Fitment Calculator. Offset, Tyre Stretch and Speedo Error | Will They Fit

Ok thanks,they are 17 up front btw.

I will probably go 225/40 with a small pull.