Stage7

Hello,

I've done some internet searches, but I'm having a hard time finding out the weights of the many coilover options available for the FD.

Does anyone (maybe the vendors on this site) know which coilovers are the lightest available (and still excellent quality) for the FD? This will be a total street car, with the 2-3 time road course HPDE excursion.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

don't know about weights but read this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/howard-colemans-fd-chassis-setup-723617/

djseven

iTrader: (56)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=723617

Read this. Weight should be one of your last concerns when looking for a coilover, unless you are a highly competetive drag racer.

Gracer beat me to it.

Black91n/a

Anything with an aluminum body will probably be lighter than one with a steel body, but it'll be more prone to damage from road debris, so they're usually not reccomended for road use. I saw a pic of an aluminum monotube with a tiny ding in the side that ruined the shock by damaging the seal as it moved past. A new shock would be required in that case.

Stage7

Thanks for the responses and links. Very informative. Still I'm just looking for what amounts to the lightest quality shock that fits my application (street car, road racing occasionally), and performs excellently.

owen is fat

zeal superfunctions are amazing quality and all aluminum.

I am sure zzyxx could put something together for you, they make all aluminum units for STIs and others I think.

ARD T2

iTrader: (22)

Yups ZEAL SuperFunctions FTW!!!!!

Not recommended for street but if you want em i'll hook it up.

We have options for the FD.

Rishie

Stage7

Why not for the street? Due to the aluminum bodies? Spring rates?

I'm def looking for a setup at home on the streets of the NorthEast and Puerto Rico (both HORRIBLE), and the occasional HPDE.

ARD T2

iTrader: (22)

Get steel body then.

Aluminum just won't be as strong and is designed for smooth road courses.

Big Potholes will own AL coils.

Rishie

Risky Devil

iTrader: (1)

double post

Risky Devil

iTrader: (1)

AutoRnd is right.
Aluminum coilovers are generally for anti-corrosion, won't seize up collars.
and 3-4 lbs of weight savings off each corner.

Stick with a steel shock body, with good valving for street, and track.

get Stance! hehehe

Black91n/a

The weight of the shock should only be a minor concern though. It's much more important to make sure that the valving and spring rates are good, that they're durable and that they're servicable without having to ship them overseas.

Even a tiny ding in the side of a monotube shock can ruin it, and if it's aluminum, then it's more likely to be damaged by road debris or impacts on bad roads.

Risky Devil

iTrader: (1)

double post

Risky Devil

iTrader: (1)

Black91n/a

Stance coilovers have great valving, and feel for street driven & track driven cars.
We offer custom valved shock bodies, and spring rates. Good for any application.

We carry GR+ , GR+ Pro models for the FD3S
Only pillowball mounts. Standard spring rate is 12kg/12kg.



Servicing/Repair can be done at our shop, located in Elk Grove, IL.

http://www.stance-usa.com/index.php

Any questions on this product, don't hesitate to call or email us.

M-F 11AM - 7PM CST
(847) 290-1568
sales@stance-usa.com

Black91n/a

It was just a general comment to the OP about what the buying priorities should be, not a comment about any product in particular.

owen is fat

stance, tein, jic, koni, zeal, among many many others are ones to consider.

I generally think of KONI as offering a better product, in conjunction with ground control for spring/perch setups, but they can be less user-friendly for install to the beginner because they need to be put together and are not a simple bolt in solution like many other coilovers that almost any 16year old kid could install.

I prefer tein to most other mfg'ers just because of their time tested performance and huge sales numbers as well as good customer service and low cost rebuilds but I am sure most other mfg'ers will offer similar support and pricing.

blwn rtr 89'

iTrader: (5)

important issues have not been addressed in this thread.

1.car weight
2.front to rear weight balance
3.mono tube/twin tube designs
4.piston diameter
5.ride height bias valve travel
6.longevity
7.cost of refurbishment
8.spring rates avaiable
9.adjustable internal gas pressure
10.heat deposition

there is almost 0 fact in this bull **** thread, its all opinions.

learn how each of these factors affect the driveability/performance or your car, and then whats practical for what you want and make your own informed decision not based on brand names or the hot **** of the moment.

i swear some of the **** you ******* post is flat out retarded, i doubt your cars stripped down to essentials, i doubt the rest of the car is set up to handle the abuse the coil overs hand out to every other part. you will hardy notice a few pounds off of each corner.

dont waste money

Black91n/a

Dude, calm down and stop calling people names unless you want to be banned. Seriously, what does having a stripped out car have to do with good suspensions?

I already mentionned spring rates and damping, durability and service. Those are the most important things to worry about.

Weight, balance, and wheel and tire setup are important for picking spring rates, but you can change that at least a little bit on every coilover out there. If the company won't sell you other springs it's no big deal, you can get springs from companies like Eibach and Hypercoil, or from other coilover companies.

People shouldn't worry so much about the whole twin tube vs. mono tube thing, as that's not an indicator of damping quality, which is what's really important. A good twin tube will outperform a poor mono tube any day, so concentrate on good damping instead. That said, an equivalent quality monotube should have better damping due to a larger piston diameter moving more fluid through it, but it'll cost more due to the higher gas pressure requiring better seals, etc. Gas pressure can be used to adjust things, but it's a pretty advanced thing to be tuing, and it has drawbacks, because the gas pressure adds to the spring rate. The combined effect of higher pressure and having the fluid against the same tube that contacts the air tends to make monotubes more resistant to fade, but that's not to say that twin tubes will suffer from fade necessarily.

The most important thing for making a car handle and go fast is the tires, second most important is the dampers, make sure you get good ones if you want to go fast.

Natey

iTrader: (19)

Instead of your sand-box name-calling B.S, why don't you add some "fact" and enlighten the masses with your wealth of knowledge.

aznpoopy

i'd be wary of stance

a few local guys have them and had the camber plate issue, which to stance's credit they fixed relatively quickly. many people swear by them

on the other hand, i have heard nightmare stories as well. one poor guy had a shock seize on him a few months after install. i pm'd him about 2 months after that thread was posted and found out (surprisingly) nobody ever took care of him. that's pretty BS

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=162786

blwn rtr 89'

iTrader: (5)

the OP desired "lightweight" suspension set up, im simply trying to make a point, if its weight he wants to save, he should start somewhere else. correct me if im wrong but you will notice very little change in 5lbs at each corner, compared to 35lbs inside the cabin of weight saving

as i said before "ALMOST" everything was bull, you happened to post something worth reading not "you should buy zeal, zeal is good because i run them"


dampening quality no, but their is benefits and drawbacks to both, for example i would never put an aluminum monotube on a street car, its to weak to stand up to that kind of abuse daily and its not worth replacing the valving after every pot hole i hit, who honestly needs that kind of ability on a street car?




i agree its no to be touched unless you know what you are doing, but again choosing the right company, worth the right customer service is important, JIC magic happens to not have to send alot of things between here and japan, and their service is excellent, they offer many different springs, adjust gas pressure, and will work with you on deals.

however i have had their selves lock up the shaft on me, and they stopped making parts for a set of coils i bought about 6 years ago.

this also should have been brought up eariler to the OP


i have yet to see you add 1 useful thing, that being said what do you want to know.

Risky Devil

iTrader: (1)

be wary?

We did have an issue with pillow ball mounts.
As soon as we knew this happened, we fixed this problem as soon as possible and let our customers know this. Customer service is just as important as our products.

As far as your friend with a seized shock.
I'm sorry to hear this. Any steel threaded body will corrode
when exposed to outside elements such as salt and water, if not
properly taken care of i.e; cleaning and anti seizing. Many people
just install coilovers , set and forget. This should not be done, and
you should always maintain them with regular care.

Please have your friend email, pm me directly.
I will personally, take care of this situation.

bruce@tougefactory.com

aznpoopy

thank you both for your reply and attention to this matter.

just to clarify i don't know him personally, but i will pass along the message. i believe the collar seizing was just a tangential issue; that is indeed a typical problem with coilovers of just about any brand that have been exposed to the elements. the main problem here was that the shock itself seized and was no longer compressing.

i do hope this gets resolved, as it will really confirm all the other awesome things i've heard about stance.

Natey

iTrader: (19)

1 useful thing: The Zeals that ARD T2 sells up are a great compromise between full on track coils and Koni yellows with a set of RSRs. They're most comfortable coilover I've driven on when on the street, and when you crank up the dampening for the track, it really makes a difference (unlike my old HKS D-Specs or JICs). I can set the fronts a little bit softer than the rears (6f 4r) and it takes care of my '93's oversteer, even with stock swaybars. Plus if I ever need any parts and/or service, I can actually GET them, (unlike my old FLTA-2s.)


Here's what I want to know. How did you ever get customer service from JIC? Did you actually send something back and have it replaced under warranty? I doubt it. It kinda sounds to me as if you're saying "Buy JIC. I have them and they're the best.", even though they "locked up on you".

blwn rtr 89'

iTrader: (5)

ive never owned a set of zeals, so i cannot comment about them.

1. JIC will speak english when you call them direct - NOT THE DISTRIBUTOR
2. the turn around for replacements is far quicker than most company's ive dealt with
3. they offer many spring rates, and will adjust gas pressure to your specs - WITHOUT COMPLICATION>>>NO SHIPPING OVERSEAS
4. i can get a discount

the steel monotubes (JIC) im talking about are old, like ancient they had a great run and finally died when my car sat for a year and i left it unattended, rust got to them and they locked up. they no longer make parts for that old of a coilover, the fact it lasted as long as it did was impressive.

i cannot say they make the best coils, nor did i imply that.

i told the OP some things to consider and to learn before buying anything, and all you said was "d-specs and flt-a2's suck" "zeals are awesome" you have not provided any fact, design specs, pressure ratings, just more useless crap.

please...... try again