I have a serious negative camber in the rear and I would like to know what camber kit to buy to rectify this .Here some pic to show you how it is . All the bushings are good , I have the racing beat DTSS and there is Tein SS coilovers on the car .

 

Yanack/SuperNow/Mazdatrix/Racingbeat subframe links will do the job.

Mazdatrix also sells links that allow for individual adjustment for each rear wheel, whilst the subframe links adjusts rear camber equally by pushing up/pulling down on the subframe.

 

which style has most adjustablilty??

 

does anyone have pics of these camber kits on their cars ? Also where could i find the super now kit ?

 

drftwerks: the mazdatrix individual links would have the most adjustment, allowing for you to adjust each wheels camber seperately.. although I don't understand why you would need this, unless your suspension was out of whack/perished bushes/or you do oval racing and need less camber on the outside wheel or something silly like that..

I'd just get one of the subframe link style ones, they all do the same job.

Have a look under the back of your car, in front of the diff you'll see a link going straight up from the subframe... thats what gets replaced.

 

http://www.flatout-motorsports.com/c...59cab4fe2db61f

I've got their subframe link and the individual adjusters, they've got the best price I've found for the on car adjustable subrame links, and it's a good piece. For a street car the subframe link is the way to go. The problem with them is that it doesn't adjust the camber equally on both sides, but if you use the individual links to get rid of that much camber you'll be seriously tweaking the bushings adding a lot of friction into the suspension, which is bad. The racers get around that by putting in spherical bearings. I plan on using the individual adjusters to just adjust out the asymmetry.

 

subframe link does not adjust both sides equally. The individual side links yield more accurate and equalizing ability on the camber. I preffer accuracy to cheap any day.

dpf22

 

Yea, but read my post, you're twisting the bushings a lot by trying to adjust that much out, causing some serious suspension binding, and on a purely street driven car it won't matter that much that it's not perfectly even.

 

I have the same problem with the rear camber on one wheel. I also need to know if having bad camber on one side could cause a vibration on the highway at about 60 mph?? and what about bad toe-in/toe-out?

 

Will the subframe link not work with solid subframe bushing?

Because it looks like the subframe link works by pulling the rear of the subframe up, so that requires the subframe bushing to flex a little.

Please correct me if im wrong.

 

I suppose a really bad bearing might cause more camber, but you'd definetely be able to hear it. Jack up the back end and pull on the tire, if the hub moves around at all, get the bearings replaced pronto.

I would think that it'd still work somewhat, but it's probably more stressfull on the subframe.

The only way I'd ever reccomend using the individual adjusters to do more than just even out uneven camber (not to take it out) would be if you've got spherical bearings in the rear control arms (AWR).

 

FYI it looks like flatout is just reselling products made by www.awrracing.com

 

They are mostly just AWR parts, which is what you get through Mazdaspeed and other places, but the subframe link is theirs and that's the cheapest one I've seen.

 

i would have to recommend a combination of the center link and individuals.
i started with just the center link, and still had too much camber, not to mention it was uneven (about a .3 degree difference). the individuals are almost maxed out now to get me to the -.5 degrees i wanted.

 

If you really really really care about your suspension and your camber, get both the subframe link made by anyone and the Mazdatrix/AWR individual links. Use the subframe link for the majority of your adjustment and the individual links for the fine tuning.

 

I was able to adjust out all the extra negative from my lowering with the subfram link, but I'm not as low.

 

I'm running stock springs, so I'm using all three adjusters to increase my camber. the left side maxes out at -0.5 degrees and the right side maxes out at -1.5 degrees. Front camber settings with strut mount adjustment and camber bolts only give -0.3 degrees per side. Man, our cars need much more camber adjustment stock.

 

Yea, because stock is ZERO.

 

more like positive 0.7 degrees to positive 0.4 degrees front, and nothing for the rear. Still sad.

 

Well since this was all about the rear then my statement stands, but the front barely qualifies as an adjustment given the small scale and having only 2 choices.

 

but you also get caster! whoopdedoo!

 

i have put a camber kit of mazdatrix an i fix the problem thank you.