so i bought a 93 FD monday, and have been plauged with this nasty wheel hop issue, I set the cusco coilovers from 1, to 2, then to 3, and havent gove any higher (6 settings i believe) and havent messed with the preload either.

I did raise it up, thinking maybe i was just bottiming out the wheel on the fender, and that might have caused it, but to no avail

It has cusco coilovers all the way around, set at one, with i dont know what preload, strut tower braces front and back, adn stock everything else with WORK equip 17 in wheels 9 in the rear 8 in the front

 

Have you lowered the tire pressure in the rear?

 

did you check your bushings too...how old are the coilovers...

 

Wheel hop on an FD is caused by bad diff bushings, trailing arm bushings, engine mounts, toe link bushings or a combination of any. The shocks are never the problem.

 

And be careful while testing -- many people have destroyed their diffs (cracked cases, blown Torsen unit, etc.) due in large part to wheel hop.

-Max

 

its happened 5 times so far, and i immediately let off the gas, i guess its time to go for some energy suspension bushings huh? Coilovers and shocks are about a year old, no problem there im sure.

Wheel hop is the devil, it will break stuff even on civics in an instant

 

Along with what Damon suggested, you can always look into a diff brace as well.

 

where would i source that, that would ship to japan?

 

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My shop www.GothamRacing.com sells them, and we ship internationally. I don't see them on the website for some reason, so you can always send an inquiry email.

 

DamonB and Mahjik are right on the money.

the FD has two bushings that need to be replaced and were the wrong design initially. both contribute directly to your problem: rear differential instability.

put a floorjack under your diff and start jacking.... you will find the differential rises an inch before the chassis!!! that happens every time you engage the drivetrain. instant wheelhop.

there are two large rubbery bushings that bolt the diff to the chassis and they need to be replaced w nylon or a much higher durometer (stiffer) rubber bushing. i run nylon.

the other bushing that is contributing to rear instability is the big rubbery bushing at the front of the lower longitudinal link. any deflection causes toe change. toe is critical. ditch the bushing. mazda does not offer a bushing for the link and only sells the link w a new bushing. it is easy to remove the link, press out the bushing and have someone make a nylon bushing w a sleeve. or buy the mazdaspeed stiffer rubber bushing.

i do not happen to like the diff brace or the trans brace or solid motor mounts. fix the two bushings and buy a good motor torque brace and you are set.

also, don't overlook running proper tire pressure. 30 front and 27-28 rear set cold.

howard coleman

 

Howard, I personally hated my engine torque brace. mucho vibration transmitted to the interior.....

Rich

 

we stopped selling them due to fitment issues with too many people. It's better not to sell a product then to sell one that people have issues installing it. the only time we actually sell them is if we install them.

 

dude, PM me

I'll probably be around this weekend if you want to put it up on a lift at the hobby shop.

 

i actually raised up the rear pressure to 35, and it eliminated it all together, not instead of breaking when it hits boost and wheel hop, its a smooth spin now. Now that thats gone, i wont be too afraid to tinker around.

 

If you are trying to launch your car (i.e. drag racing), you'll want to drop the tire pressure down to probably around 20 PSI.

 

Take Nic (Suganuma) up on his offer for help. He knows his stuff.

Niko, I will be PM ya later.....still want to come out and visit

 

rear tire pressure to 35.....

you fixed the problem by greatly decreasing rear traction thru an over-inflated rear tire. you don't have wheelhop because you don't have traction.

i suggest you revisit the situation.

front engine rear drive cars are fundamentally traction limited in the rear. the rear needs to be softer than the front. suggested tire pressure is 30 front and 27-28 rear set cold. if you reset your tire pressure and still have wheelhop i recommend you address the rear bushings.

good luck,

howard coleman

 

Gotta agree with Howard. Some all season tires would have fixed it too

 

not for drag racing, this was happeneing normally as i was already rolling, then boost hit and it broke traction then wheel hop occured

 

alright, let me revisit this and drop the rears down, if that doesnt fix it im goign to hit up the guy here for some help, im not drag racing or anything, its just under WOT while moving when they break traction it gets squirly and quite bad with the wheel hop

 

If it's not during a launch (like for drag racing), then follow Damon's advice from his first message in this thread.