HPS pad install (FD)
Thread Starter
Rotary Freak
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,742
Likes: 0
From: Houston
HPS pad install (FD)
OK. I searched and found out that with the HPS FD rears there is a built in shim.
I am looking at my HPS fronts and rears. I am assuming that the fronts are the larger ones for the logical reasons. The fronts also have some clips (on 2 of them) on the opposite end from the holes.
Anyways, all these pads, front and back, have shims on them. I guess they incorporated the shims into all the fronts now.
I notice that the installation instructions recommend sanding down the rotors to remove particles from the precious pads.
Is this really necessary? Do people do this? It sounds like a PITA, possible requiring rotor removal???
Any other tips for the install?
I just found this in another thread...
I am looking at my HPS fronts and rears. I am assuming that the fronts are the larger ones for the logical reasons. The fronts also have some clips (on 2 of them) on the opposite end from the holes.
Anyways, all these pads, front and back, have shims on them. I guess they incorporated the shims into all the fronts now.
I notice that the installation instructions recommend sanding down the rotors to remove particles from the precious pads.
Is this really necessary? Do people do this? It sounds like a PITA, possible requiring rotor removal???
Any other tips for the install?
I just found this in another thread...
the rotors actually come off without hitting it with a hammer.
There is a little threaded hole in the rotor. Not one of the holes for the screws that hold it on, but another smaller hole. You find a bolt that will fit in there, and turn it in. The rotor just pops right off.. :P
There is a little threaded hole in the rotor. Not one of the holes for the screws that hold it on, but another smaller hole. You find a bolt that will fit in there, and turn it in. The rotor just pops right off.. :P
Last edited by PVerdieck; Mar 12, 2003 at 11:51 PM.
Lives on the Forum
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,716
Likes: 10
From: San Lorenzo, California
I have the HPS pads but I had my mechanic install them. I have always had my rotors turned when installing new brake pads, especially if you are switching compounds.
Then again, a lot of people here drive to the track on street pads and then swap in their racing pads at the track. Of course, these people may not be getting 80k out of a set of rotors.....
Then again, a lot of people here drive to the track on street pads and then swap in their racing pads at the track. Of course, these people may not be getting 80k out of a set of rotors.....
Ex fd *****
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,782
Likes: 1
From: Ventura CA USA
I use Hawk Pads - Sanding the rotors is only needed when changing type of pad (ie from organic or semi metalic to carbon/kevlar)
To remove the rotor - remove the philips screws that hold the rotor in place, then thread one in to the "Blind" Hole in the rotor to pop it off the hub. You have to remove the Front Calipers to Remove the front rotors. To do the Rears you have to remove the Caliper & the Caliper bracket to get the Rotor off. DON'T let the Calipers hang by the flex hose when doing this (as you can damage the hose leading to sudden brake failure) use a piece of wire to hang the caliper from the suspension or bodywork. I sanded my rotors w/ 60 grit paper on my 5" orbital sander - sand until you get a good matt finish over the entire surface then wash the rotors w/ brake barts cleaner, Sanding the rotors also helps the "BEDDING" processs for NEW pads. Measure the rotor thickness before sanding - if it (they) are close to or thinner than the MIN thickness (within 0.5 mm, the min thickness will be stamped someplace on the rotor) replace the rotor(s).
To remove the rotor - remove the philips screws that hold the rotor in place, then thread one in to the "Blind" Hole in the rotor to pop it off the hub. You have to remove the Front Calipers to Remove the front rotors. To do the Rears you have to remove the Caliper & the Caliper bracket to get the Rotor off. DON'T let the Calipers hang by the flex hose when doing this (as you can damage the hose leading to sudden brake failure) use a piece of wire to hang the caliper from the suspension or bodywork. I sanded my rotors w/ 60 grit paper on my 5" orbital sander - sand until you get a good matt finish over the entire surface then wash the rotors w/ brake barts cleaner, Sanding the rotors also helps the "BEDDING" processs for NEW pads. Measure the rotor thickness before sanding - if it (they) are close to or thinner than the MIN thickness (within 0.5 mm, the min thickness will be stamped someplace on the rotor) replace the rotor(s).
Last edited by maxpesce; Mar 14, 2003 at 11:16 AM.
You do not need to remove the rotors or even "hard" sand them. All you need to do is slightly clean the surface.
I use a fine grit wet/dry of about 280 grit, with soapy water. Just hold the wet s paper against the rotor and spin it a few times untill you buff the surfaces.
Easy and effective.
I use a fine grit wet/dry of about 280 grit, with soapy water. Just hold the wet s paper against the rotor and spin it a few times untill you buff the surfaces.
Easy and effective.
LS6 Convert
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,827
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Yep. The newer Hawk pads come with the shims built in. This helps with the squeak/squeal issue that HP+'s owners have been griping about forever and ever. (Now if they could just get them to dust a little less ...) But, you have the HPS pads, so dusting shouldn't be an issue for you.
Max is right. Sanding down the rotors helps the bedding process. You could go without it, but you won't get the true performance of the pad. It's not very hard ... I actually use a grit in between what Max and Chuck are recommending, 100 grit. I scuff the hell out of them. Ever done a track day? You know that REAL shiny look the rotors have at the end of the day .... kinda like that.
Be very careful not to get any oil or grease on the rotors after you clean them .... that INCLUDES YOUR HANDS. Wear latex gloves or something like that. 'sides, brake cleaner is pretty nasty on your skin anyways. Have fun.
Max is right. Sanding down the rotors helps the bedding process. You could go without it, but you won't get the true performance of the pad. It's not very hard ... I actually use a grit in between what Max and Chuck are recommending, 100 grit. I scuff the hell out of them. Ever done a track day? You know that REAL shiny look the rotors have at the end of the day .... kinda like that.
Be very careful not to get any oil or grease on the rotors after you clean them .... that INCLUDES YOUR HANDS. Wear latex gloves or something like that. 'sides, brake cleaner is pretty nasty on your skin anyways. Have fun.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tiger18
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
9
Sep 3, 2015 08:27 PM