Tem120

iTrader: (5)

For auto-x I removed my rear sway and I had a ton more grip to put hte power down

I have a RB front swaybar .

And adjustable GAB R shocks 650 F , 500 R springs

I have both shocks set at 4/8

front is gripping fine . and so is the rear except its hitting bumpstops on faster turns .

and when it hits the bumpstops well lets just say it caused quite the scary spin .

so I was wondering if maybe someone else ran no rear sway . and if my shocks / springs are just to soft to run no rear sway ? ..

KevinK2

I ran no rear bar when I was setting up my suspension for road courses. With stock springs and shocks, I was amazed how well the car handled I95 clover leafs at 3am, with just the 32mm hollow bar up front. And you get better power down in corners because the front handles more of the weight transfer.

But you have to ask yourself, how many rwd cars finish high in the Nationals with no rear bar?

It's easy enough to install a stock or RB rear bar, and disconnect an endlink to run no rear bar. Try both, and see which s faster. I won my class 2 years in a row with another rwd car, but it needed a small amount of rear bar to get the fastest times. I was running the mfg's race springs, and it was fun off season to run no bars, and much smoother with a FULLY independent suspension.

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ZDan

Hard to imagine losing the skinny rear sway would cause you to bottom out the outside rear in cornering! With a stiffer aftermarket front bar and your spring rates, the stock rear bar isn't really contributing a whole lot to overall roll stiffness. If you're bottoming the outside rear in cornering, you might raise the car a bit to get more usable travel. Do your coilovers have tapered progressive bump stops? That would help...

FWIW I'm running Ohlins DFV, 11k/11k (616 lb/in), speedway front bar and I disconnected the rear bar to help put the power down at the track. Car is at 630mm front 635mm rear ride height at middle of fender opening and no bottoming issues.