7syawedis

iTrader: (1)

searched and i only ask because i dont want to screw anything up. their directions absolutly suck. i just want to make sure i know what im doing completely before i go screwing around with the settings on these. im good on everything else but unclear on the height adjustment any help would be great.

rynberg

Which Teins?

7syawedis

iTrader: (1)

i have the superdrifts but i would assume its at least similair for all their models.

from what i can gather you can screw the shock body into the lower bracket to lose some height, as far as that i dont know if there is a limit to how far you should go or not. and this cant seem to be adjusted when on the car.
as for the springs im just not really getting that.


im wanting to drop these as low as they will go. thats where im trying to get.

heres a pic, i only installed one so far. its not too much trouble to remove if i need to mess with it more

aznpoopy

note there are three collars

fromt top to bottom they are:
1. spring perch
2. perch locking collar
3. shock mount locking collar

instructions:
if you haven't fucked with 1 and 2 yet, don't touch them. leave them as they were set. they are adjustable for a reason, but its better not to bother with that until you know what you are doing.

if you have fucked with 1 and 2, then go around on each corner and make sure that the spring is not loose when the car is jacked up. loosen 1 and 2 until the spring is free. then tighten 1 upwards until the spring is taut between the perch collar and the upper mount. finally tighten 2 against 1 to lock it in place.

you can do it with them on the car.

to adjust height, rotate #3 upwards. this unlocks the entire coilover body.
now with 1 and 2 tightened against each other, spin #2 with a spanner wrench. the spring will not compress or loose as long as the coil body is spinning along with the perch you are rotating with the wrench. the bottom mount (section under #3 - let's call it #4), will remain stationary since it is bolted to the car. as a result, the coil body will screw into or out of the bottom mount #4, raising or lower the car by changing the length of the shock body.

screw the coil body into the shock mount #4 to lower the car.
screw the coil body out of the shock mount #4 to raise the car.

p.s.
its possible to go lower by deleting #2 and #3 collars. that's only if you're crazy for lowness though.

the #1 perch can be used to adjust height by drooping or preloading the spring.

rynberg

aznpoopy, that is a nice write up. I reiterate to not touch collars #1 and #2 unless the spring is loose in the perch. And do NOT adjust collar #1 to change ride height!

You should be able to lower the car well past the point of stupidity.

7syawedis

iTrader: (1)

dude you ******* rock thats exactly what i was looking for.

that also answers a question i didnt even ask, if you can straight drop it all the way down like that. i dont think i will, is that like for the max 3 inch or whatever drop. i might go there maybe just not at first.
i did mess with one spring but i put it back made sure it was tight and measured the threads and spring to make sure everything was equal to the other side.

thanks!

aznpoopy

thanks rynberg!

and no problem 7syawedis. just make sure you get an alignment. everytime you change height you will alter your alignment. so set it so at a height you are happy at, and then get it aligned.

i would also suggest applying antiseize to all contact surfaces... based on my recent experience with seized coilovers. :P

7syawedis

iTrader: (1)

thanks for clarifying as well rynberg i was afraid of them touching, that was a big concern. but i just went on out and tried it i dont think getting the drop i want is going to be an issue its low as hell with room to go further so i think im good to go, and i thank you all.

i am a gs and i do alignments every day and i plan to do mine as soon as im set up, this is just my first first hand experience with an aftermarket suspension minus lowering springs if anyone even counts that. i just really needed to be sure of what i was doing after dropping over 1300 on these i dont plan on messing with anything else anytime soon.

ReadyKW

When I got my Tein Flex coilovers, they came with instructions that specified dimensions for a "benchtop" initial setup. When I installed the coilovers, my ride height was about 24.5" (ground to top of fender wheel opening).

This was a little low for me, so I raised the height to 25.5" by the method described, ie unscrewing the coilover body from the bottom mount.

Later, I started wondering how much thread engagement I had remaining regarding the coilover body to bottom mount, and what was the amount of thread engagement (minimum amount) allowed. I called Tein, explained this to them, and they recommended to adjust height with the spring perches and not adjusting the coilover body to bottom mount beyond the initial specified setup.

I re-adjusted everything per Teins recommendation, and did not notice any change in ride or handling. By adjusting the perches upward, it would seem to me that you are limiting rebound travel, because you are changing the point in the total shock travel that you are starting from. In this case, closer to full extension.

rynberg

That is TERRIBLE advice! What fricking idiot did you speak to? That is the whole point of getting a proper coilover, so you can adjust ride height without changing the suspension stroke!

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

Sorry for the bump but im about to get some coilovers and i dont wanna run into the same dilemma.



I know its a crappy brand for example but its the only one i can find that shows a clear pic but you guys are talking about those 3 gold nuts under the red spring right?

The top 2 dont touch and the bottom you can for adjustment? But i dont see how screwing it will change anything, it looks like it can free turn up and down without any change to the setup itself.

owen is fat

the top 2 that are right under the spring, those two lock together, just like using two hexnuts on a bolt to lock them in place together. those two locate the spring on the shock body and give you preload if you have the spring compressed a little even off the car. this can change your corner weights too.

the lowest perch, that 3rd one all alone, that locks the strut into the lower mounting tube/piece thingie. if you loosen that perch then you can screw the entire shock body down or up to adjust the cars ride height with no effect on spring preload. this is a great benefit as you do not lose shock travel (range) but are still able to lower the car a lot. you can also user this to adjust the corner weights.

Black91n/a

http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/pr..._iv/index.html

The description of how they set up the coilovers in that article makes a lot of sense to me. As an aside he now works for Mazdaspeed NA.

The reccomendation to not touch the spring preload isn't necessarily a good one. Adjusting the preload will change how much droop and bump travel the shocks have, and in some cases it's necessary to run a fair bit of preload to get an acceptable amount of bump travel to keep the suspension off the bumpstops. That'll be more of a problem with softer springs, but I know that it is needed in some cases.