quichedem

iTrader: (4)

I'm in the process of removing the front LCA OEM rubber bushings, and I've noticed that the "rear" bushing is different than the "front" bushing. Of all the detail that Jimlab's great bushing replacement thread ( https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-w...shings-648765/ ) includes, it doesn't seem to detail these particular bushings.
In looking at one of Jimlab's pics, it appears that the removed "rear" bushing has a metal sleeve:

https://www.rx7club.com/attachments/...bushing029.jpg

I would like to know how you guys got this bushing and sleeve out. Is it supposed to press out altogether, or does the rubber part press out, and the sleeve is removed separately somehow. Thanks in advance!

valley

iTrader: (1)

Ahh, the rear LCA bushing. She be a harsh mistress indeed.

There are a variety of options. I believe people has successfully pressed them off despite the LCA having the barb specifically to keep them on. Here is how I did it:

Angle Grinder
5" cut off disc (4.5 if you want to keep the guard on)
Powdered gloves
Welding gloves over them
Long sleeve shirt I didn't car about ruining tucked into the welding gloves
Backdrop I didn't mind getting melted/molten rubber all over
Face shield
Ear pro because my angle grinder is very loud
Sturdy screw driver/some sort of pry bar
Well ventilated area, preferably with a fan blowing across the work piece

Secure the LCA and take the angle grinder and cut it, from the front side to the rear side. Be sure you're cutting through the metal sleeve but NOT into the LCA post that the bushing is on. Once you've cut through the one side, do the other side. Then take the prying device and work the pieces of the metal shaft apart (because if you manage to cut all the way through them you've probably cut into the LCA more than a bit.

This is not the best way to do this, however, it is one of the more feasible ways depending on how stocked (or not) your garage/shop/whatever is. Once you've cut off the bushing put a grinding wheel on and grind the barb down to nothing (smooth the LCA post).

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

That works.. to make life easier take a sawzall and cut the rubber down on the area you plan to slice with the die grinder. It will make a lot less mess that way.

valley

iTrader: (1)

I would imagine a sawzall with a good metal cutting blade would be a generally better alternative to an angle grinder with a cut off wheel. Certainly a lot less mess.

Ones avenue will mostly come down to what you have/buy/borrow.

quichedem

iTrader: (4)

LOL!
This sounds like it'll be a lot of fun. Is the rubber molded into the sleeve? I'm changing them out to Superpros, and I would like to know if the sleeve even needs to come out.

Any pictures (your or linked) would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, guys!!

Mazda, Y U Do Dis??!?!?!??!

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

The problem with using the sawzall to take the whole bushing off is control and damaging the arm. It's much more precise with the angle grinder.

The sawzall is the right tool for the rear trailing arm bushings however.

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Yes the sleeve needs to come off. You'll be left with a stub with some barbs on it.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

The original poster has an FD... Most of the people in this thread are confused and are talking about FC lower control arms.

quichedem

iTrader: (4)

My mistake for not specifying the FD front LCA. I need advice on the FD "rear" LCA bushing removal. Thanks!

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

LOL whoops.

quichedem

iTrader: (4)

I might see if I c an move this to the general 3rd. gen discussion. Might be seen by a few more eyes.

valley

iTrader: (1)

Probably not a bad idea. Turning off some of background programs so I can see the picture... My first guess would be that the center shaft that the bolt goes through can be removed which allows just enough rubber movement for the bushing to be pressed in. Then again, I don't have an FD. Is it not listed in the FSM?

quichedem

iTrader: (4)

Unless I missed it, it isn't the FSM. They really don't go into much detail, and they just reference the SST to use. It's basically the same as the allthread/washers/bolts set you can cobble together. It makes no particular mention of the bushing I'm referring to.

quichedem

iTrader: (4)

I guess I'll have to answer my own question here. The front LCA rear bushing has a metal sleeve on the outside. It appears, for anyone that runs across this in the future and wants to know, that one must press this whole assembly out. Looking at the OEM replacement bushing is how I came to this conclusion:

93-95 Rx7 Front Lower Control Arm Rear Inner...

So, I'm planning on trying to press this sucker out. If I can't get it done in the press, I'll resort to drilling as much of the rubber out, then taking a hack saw to the sleeve. I'm hoping I can devise a way to press this sucker out, though. I'll try to remember to post some pics when I do it.

ACR_RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Try heating the control arm up on the outside and use a press, or an air hammer to try and drive it out. Most people end up just cutting it out like you said with a hacksaw or a sawsall

quichedem

iTrader: (4)

Thank you for the suggestion, but I feel that it is very advisable to NOT heat these arms (or any forged metal items). They are factory forged, which work hardens the Aluminum and, thus, creates its strength. Heating "relaxes" the material and softens it. A very bad idea for an already soft metal. Sorry for the engineering lesson, but I feel it's important for anyone reading this and attempting. If I figure out a clever jig to get this done with, I will be sure to post it here.

ACR_RX-7

iTrader: (1)

I should have been a bit more clear. I'm not suggesting taking a torch to them (which is the immediate thought), but instead to use a heat gun and heat the area evenly to about 200F degrees. At my shop, I have access to a hot parts washer that heats the cleaner to near boiling. It heats the whole part and bushings and bearings slide out almost effortlessly.

Heating up an aluminum part to less than 400 degrees will not hurt it at all. Powder coating gets parts hotter than that and people have been coating aluminum parts for years. So, not necessarily a bad idea because to "relax" the metal it takes a lot more heat.

quichedem

iTrader: (4)

I agree with this. I don't know the annealing temp. of this Aluminum, but I agree with your temp. assessments. Torching is, as you said, a bad idea, and I definitely would not suggest that.

I would like try this if only I had a access to a hot parts washer...