Front end clunk when braking/turning at low speeds -- what could be the problem?
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Call me gramps!
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From: Detroit, MI
Front end clunk when braking/turning at low speeds -- what could be the problem?
Well, I have had this problem for a while now. On low speed braking and sometimes even on low speed turns where I turn the wheel fully, I will hear a clunk from the front end. I can sort of feel it very slightly from my steering wheel, but this could just be in my head.
I recently replaced my outer tie rod end links because the boot was torn on both sides. I suspected that they might be the culprit, but that wasn't the case. The clunk still continues. I do recall an OLD TSB:
Has anyone replaced the 2 bushings for each A-ARM and resolved the issue?
I recently replaced my outer tie rod end links because the boot was torn on both sides. I suspected that they might be the culprit, but that wasn't the case. The clunk still continues. I do recall an OLD TSB:
3. NOISE FROM STEERING OR SUSPENSION.
The steering or suspension makes a clunking sound at low speeds or when
wheel
turned lock to lock. There are three service bulletins which address
this
problem:
+++++++++++++
Service bulletin # 00493 Cat. R, issued 5/19/93, revised 9/22/93
Replace upper A-arm bushings with Part # FD0134480A.
2 bushings per side
+++++++++++++
Service bulletin # 002/93 Category B, issued 2/26/93
Applies to vehicles with a VIN of JM1FD3***P0207061 or lower
produced through May 31, 1992. Replace engine mount with modified
part # FD01 39 040C. Although the part has been modified, the
part # is the same as the original.
Clearance increased between rubber mount and mount housing.
+++++++++++++
Service bulletin # 00293 Category N, issued 10/21/93
Replace steering rack boots with modified parts.
Left side: part # FD0132125A
Right side: part # FD0232125A
The steering or suspension makes a clunking sound at low speeds or when
wheel
turned lock to lock. There are three service bulletins which address
this
problem:
+++++++++++++
Service bulletin # 00493 Cat. R, issued 5/19/93, revised 9/22/93
Replace upper A-arm bushings with Part # FD0134480A.
2 bushings per side
+++++++++++++
Service bulletin # 002/93 Category B, issued 2/26/93
Applies to vehicles with a VIN of JM1FD3***P0207061 or lower
produced through May 31, 1992. Replace engine mount with modified
part # FD01 39 040C. Although the part has been modified, the
part # is the same as the original.
Clearance increased between rubber mount and mount housing.
+++++++++++++
Service bulletin # 00293 Category N, issued 10/21/93
Replace steering rack boots with modified parts.
Left side: part # FD0132125A
Right side: part # FD0232125A
Last edited by WaLieN; Oct 9, 2005 at 01:36 PM.
I have the same problem. I replace my driver's side with new upper a-arm and the noise goes away. I am sure it is the upper a-arm bushing. I bought new a-arm because it has new bushing in it and also comes with new ball joint, so I know my ball joint is good.
I have to do the passenger side soon because I hear the same noise coming from the passenger side recently.
BC
I have to do the passenger side soon because I hear the same noise coming from the passenger side recently.
BC
Thread Starter
Call me gramps!
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Detroit, MI
Originally Posted by DamonB
First thing I would check are the endlinks on the front sway bar.
Originally Posted by BC-FD3S
I have the same problem. I replace my driver's side with new upper a-arm and the noise goes away. I am sure it is the upper a-arm bushing. I bought new a-arm because it has new bushing in it and also comes with new ball joint, so I know my ball joint is good.
I have to do the passenger side soon because I hear the same noise coming from the passenger side recently.
BC
I have to do the passenger side soon because I hear the same noise coming from the passenger side recently.
BC
Last edited by WaLieN; Oct 10, 2005 at 01:15 PM.
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They are around 200 each at Mazdamotorsport. Bushing itself will cost about 160 for both upper a-arm and you need to spend time and tools to do it yourself. I am lazy and don't want to deal with changing bushings, so I end up buying new arm. Also new arm comes with new ball joint. Ball joint may also go bad and you can not replace the ball joint.
Buying new A-Arm safe me a lot of time and I don't have to worry about the ball joint.
BC
Buying new A-Arm safe me a lot of time and I don't have to worry about the ball joint.
BC
Originally Posted by WaLieN
How much was it?
Last edited by BC-FD3S; Oct 10, 2005 at 04:48 PM.
Thread Starter
Call me gramps!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,334
Likes: 0
From: Detroit, MI
Originally Posted by BC-FD3S
They are around 200 each at Mazdamotorsport. Bushing itself will cost about 160 for both upper a-arm and you need to spend time and tools to do it yourself. I am lazy and don't want to deal with changing bushings, so I end up buying new arm. Also new arm comes with new ball joint. Ball joint may also go bad and you can not replace the ball joint.
Buying new A-Arm safe me a lot of time and I don't have to worry about the ball joint.
BC
Buying new A-Arm safe me a lot of time and I don't have to worry about the ball joint.
BC
That Mazdamotorsport price. You have to be a member and you have to pay tax and shipping. I think it is still resonable price when you compare getting new bushing and install them to you old A-Arm
BC
BC
Originally Posted by WaLieN
Wow, $200 is pretty cheap. Thanks for the information.
WWFSMD
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 5,035
Likes: 4
From: SoCal
I got new upper arms from Malloy for about $510 recently. That was the total for both arms. Both my upper ball joints were bad. And the used arms I bought also had bad ball joints, which I noticed when I went to install them. So, I got new arms.
Ball joints tighten up when you let the suspension droop. To test, you could jack the corner, remove the wheel, and then jack the corner by the suspension arm (to get the suspension in it's "normal" ride position) and then grab the upper arm with one hand and the upright with the other hand and check for play. It is also pretty easy to separate the upper arm from the upright, which is another way you could check. When the ball joint is bad, you can tell just by wiggling it with your hand. If it is really loose and/or has noticable play, it is bad.
-Max
Ball joints tighten up when you let the suspension droop. To test, you could jack the corner, remove the wheel, and then jack the corner by the suspension arm (to get the suspension in it's "normal" ride position) and then grab the upper arm with one hand and the upright with the other hand and check for play. It is also pretty easy to separate the upper arm from the upright, which is another way you could check. When the ball joint is bad, you can tell just by wiggling it with your hand. If it is really loose and/or has noticable play, it is bad.
-Max
Thread Starter
Call me gramps!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,334
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From: Detroit, MI
Originally Posted by maxcooper
I got new upper arms from Malloy for about $510 recently. That was the total for both arms. Both my upper ball joints were bad. And the used arms I bought also had bad ball joints, which I noticed when I went to install them. So, I got new arms.
Ball joints tighten up when you let the suspension droop. To test, you could jack the corner, remove the wheel, and then jack the corner by the suspension arm (to get the suspension in it's "normal" ride position) and then grab the upper arm with one hand and the upright with the other hand and check for play. It is also pretty easy to separate the upper arm from the upright, which is another way you could check. When the ball joint is bad, you can tell just by wiggling it with your hand. If it is really loose and/or has noticable play, it is bad.
-Max
Ball joints tighten up when you let the suspension droop. To test, you could jack the corner, remove the wheel, and then jack the corner by the suspension arm (to get the suspension in it's "normal" ride position) and then grab the upper arm with one hand and the upright with the other hand and check for play. It is also pretty easy to separate the upper arm from the upright, which is another way you could check. When the ball joint is bad, you can tell just by wiggling it with your hand. If it is really loose and/or has noticable play, it is bad.
-Max
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 652
Likes: 0
From: GA
I've been fighting with this same problem for years. I've been ignoring it but the noise is only getting worse. I had this noise with my stock bushings. Every bushing was replaced with the unobtainium (Jim Lab) bushings. The noise is still there. I've also replaced my sway bar end link bushings. The ball joints have zero play. The noise is audible when I am parked or driving slowly while turning wheel to wheel. I also here the noise under braking and acceleration while moving slowly.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 652
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From: GA
Originally Posted by fd3typer2
Can just ball joints be replaced, or only the whole arm? I just fitted Jimlab bushings and dont really want to remove them from my arm. I am getting some clunking as described above too.
Full Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 141
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From: UK
After investigating, I can't seem to see/hear anything wrong with the balljoints or antisway bay links. I am suspecting the engine mount which I knew needs replacing. I am not sure how to check that this is the offending part. Is the only way just to replace it?
I am kinda glad it's not the balljoint, I have just put in new bushes and would hate to have to swap them out to another a-arm.
I am kinda glad it's not the balljoint, I have just put in new bushes and would hate to have to swap them out to another a-arm.
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