FD Rear suspension Mods
#1
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FD Rear suspension Mods
I am looking at toe links and trailing arms... there are a couple to choose from and a range of prices that differ up to an over 100$ between brands.
I would like some feed back from people that have mods done to the rear suspension.
I need the them simply because the bushings are bad, and I am never one to replace something with oem parts if there is an upgrade that is better and inevitably cheaper than oem. I am not looking to launch my car at 5000 rpms, so any extreme launch kits are not really somthing i am interested in. I think I like many others am just looking for an improvement on the stock setup for mild to aggressive street driving that doesn't necessarily cost a fortune.
All input is welcome!
I would like some feed back from people that have mods done to the rear suspension.
I need the them simply because the bushings are bad, and I am never one to replace something with oem parts if there is an upgrade that is better and inevitably cheaper than oem. I am not looking to launch my car at 5000 rpms, so any extreme launch kits are not really somthing i am interested in. I think I like many others am just looking for an improvement on the stock setup for mild to aggressive street driving that doesn't necessarily cost a fortune.
All input is welcome!
#2
needs more track time
iTrader: (16)
so why not replace with stock bushings? or even better the poly urethane bushings from SuperPro sold in the Group Buy section?
Both will last a lot longer than heim joints used on the aftermarket toe links and trailing arms which are more oriented to track use and often advertised as drag launch kits.
Both will last a lot longer than heim joints used on the aftermarket toe links and trailing arms which are more oriented to track use and often advertised as drag launch kits.
#4
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iTrader: (41)
Do the entire suspension at once if you can. I would upgrade the bushings to super pros or something similar. Stock bushings are just too expensive. I would also replace ALL the rear pillow ***** and dust boots (6 of them). The inner lower control arm bushing in the rear needs to be replaced with a stock one as I don't believe there is an upgrade. Also, make sure the front ball joints are all good before you replace bushings. They are not replaceable and you will have to change the arm if they are bad. Make sure to replace any torn dust boots. As for toe links/trailing arms, the style with dust boots is preferable. If your budget allows this would also be a good time to install some quality coilovers. I wouldn't waste time/money with shocks/springs.
#5
Do the entire suspension at once if you can. I would upgrade the bushings to super pros or something similar. Stock bushings are just too expensive. I would also replace ALL the rear pillow ***** and dust boots (6 of them). The inner lower control arm bushing in the rear needs to be replaced with a stock one as I don't believe there is an upgrade. Also, make sure the front ball joints are all good before you replace bushings. They are not replaceable and you will have to change the arm if they are bad. Make sure to replace any torn dust boots. As for toe links/trailing arms, the style with dust boots is preferable. If your budget allows this would also be a good time to install some quality coilovers. I wouldn't waste time/money with shocks/springs.
#7
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Yes. The stock setup has too much rubber that deteriorates. They upper mounts are very expensive and people often neglect to replace them when replacing the shocks. You can get a nice ride that can be firm or plush when desired with a set of adjustable coilovers.
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hi,
today I changed my suspension and testing my rear.
I have SuperPro 6 year on car and looks really fine
but everything is work of previous owner,
Such rigidity is normal?
metan
today I changed my suspension and testing my rear.
I have SuperPro 6 year on car and looks really fine
but everything is work of previous owner,
Such rigidity is normal?
metan
#14
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
There aren't many points in the rear suspension you can replace with poly bushings and have it work without binding.
Upper arm-
You can replace the upper arm inboard sliding bushings with poly and once that is done also replace the shock mount sliding bushing with poly. This will eliminate the rear dynamic toe control.
Lower arm/lateral link/toe link-
However, because of the lower arms lateral link, every pivot point below the upper arms outer spherical bearing describes an arc- ie they are multi axis- ie no poly.
Solution 1-
You can do aftermarket spherical bearing lateral link, aftermarket non bushed spherical bearing toe links and the stiffer Mazda Competition lower inner rubber bushed spherical bearing # F128-28-460 or aftermarket solid spherical bearing.
Solution 2-
If your racing class does not allow replacing suspension arms, bushings with spherical bearings or increasing the amount of metal in a bushing (this applies to stock rubber bushed spherical bearings) you can use stock lateral link with Mazda Comp # F128-28-52Y bushing in the front and the stock toe links with Mazda Comp # F128-28-42Y stiffer bushed spherical bearing on the inboard end and the Mazda Comp # F128-28-460 lower control arm inboard rubber bushed spherical bearing.
Recap-
Poly bushings will cause binding in the lateral link, lower arm and toe link.
Upper arm-
You can replace the upper arm inboard sliding bushings with poly and once that is done also replace the shock mount sliding bushing with poly. This will eliminate the rear dynamic toe control.
Lower arm/lateral link/toe link-
However, because of the lower arms lateral link, every pivot point below the upper arms outer spherical bearing describes an arc- ie they are multi axis- ie no poly.
Solution 1-
You can do aftermarket spherical bearing lateral link, aftermarket non bushed spherical bearing toe links and the stiffer Mazda Competition lower inner rubber bushed spherical bearing # F128-28-460 or aftermarket solid spherical bearing.
Solution 2-
If your racing class does not allow replacing suspension arms, bushings with spherical bearings or increasing the amount of metal in a bushing (this applies to stock rubber bushed spherical bearings) you can use stock lateral link with Mazda Comp # F128-28-52Y bushing in the front and the stock toe links with Mazda Comp # F128-28-42Y stiffer bushed spherical bearing on the inboard end and the Mazda Comp # F128-28-460 lower control arm inboard rubber bushed spherical bearing.
Recap-
Poly bushings will cause binding in the lateral link, lower arm and toe link.
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