illusion38

iTrader: (1)

So I plan on changing all four brake pads and I was just curious for a rough time estimate. fd3s.net has some information with a guide, however have mixed opinions some say fast, some say slow, some say need tools others say you don't. Can someone point me in a better direction? Thanks Kindly

Ryan G

Black1993rx7

that's a broad question. As far as the time needed, you're looking at probably 2 hours if you know what you are doing. You'll need a C-clap to push the pistons into the calipers. I would go ahead and bleed the brakes while you're in there which would probably double the time. Good luck.

BillM

iTrader: (4)

Regarding brakes, do not cut corners. Read the FSM, the on line stickies and do the job right. IE - check rotors for runout, thickness, need to resurface, change your brake fluid, replace any bad hardware, bleed brakes, etc, etc

hub_01_69

It's been a year or so since I completely went through my brake system so i may be wrong but don't the pistons in the rear calipers screw back in instead of pushing in? I believe all the local parts stores sell the tool for this or you can use needle nose pliers just be careful not to mess up the piston or your fingers...

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Yes, that's correct. The front pistons press in, and the rear ones screw in.

The pad change shouldn't take that long. It what I call 'busy work' as it's not difficult, it just takes some time. If you don't have speedbleeders or a power bleeder, this would be a good time to get one or both of those items.

hansaysso

yep, rears are screw ins and fronts are push in. remember when u do push in the pistons from front or rear, open up the brake bleeder, as some people have had probs where when u leave everything closed and u push the pistons back in, it can damage lines or the abs system. changing the pads shouldn't take you too long, but like everyone else said, change the fluid while your at it.

illusion38

iTrader: (1)

Alright so tomorrow morning going to try to bleed and change all four pads. I am still trying to find a better guide than fd3s.net's due to people disagreeing and not one solid answer. Anyone know of one? Thanks

Ryan G

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

What? Here's what's on FD3S.net:

Same thing said in this thread.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

I can swap all four pads at the track in about 30 minutes, when I'm in practice. 45 mins. to an hour if not.

Also, I never have a problem reattaching the E-brake cable, even when I've not screwed the rear pistons in. I'm not sure what the above note is talkking about.

illusion38

iTrader: (1)

Wow, so tonight I gave the pads a good effort. The front two took..... 4 friggen hours. I am not sure if we did something wrong, or if my pistons are just in horrible shape. One side of the caliper the pistons pushed in just fine, but the other was REALLY a P.I.T.A and we even bent a fair sized C clamp. None the less finally pushed them back and pads fit in like nothing and the rest was easy. So now to do the other side of the car, same stupid problem, and this side was even HARDER to push in. ended up having the "tap" did not hammer, just a little tap to cause vibrations to make the Pads fit. Now the brakes appear to be stuck on, haven't tried driving around yet, but putting the lug nuts on no wheel rotation so I hope that is fixed after a few good drives. So, did I do something wrong or odds are pistons were just seized, coincidence one side of the caliper went SO easy yet the other so impossible, on both the Right and Left of the car. For future references make me look like a fool if I missed something obvious. Bled the front brakes so there done with. The rear ones will be tackled on weds or Thursday and the pistons twist in. I'm REALLY hoping they actually do an are not seized beyond belief (as the front ones seems to be for pushing). This is new to me, but I'm glad to be learning how to do stuff to the 7, lovely car!

Ryan G