hy to all,anybody can help and tell me how can i adjust my s4 fc3s rear chamber.. hope everybody can help me.. thks

 

Chamber?

do you mean camber?

 

yup,rear camber degree.. sory for wrong spelling.. thks

 

http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=04-7421-0000

 

do you have coilovers currently on the car??

 

yup bro,i hav install rear jic coilover...

 

Do you need to adjust the chamber because the tires have no thread???

 

So now you have wayyy to much camber right?.?


your gonna need this then(like posted earlier)http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=04-7421-0000


your gonna need this to adjust the rear camber..

 

i installed that adjustable ream camber arm , but im a noob to suspension and stuff . if i raise it or lower it wats do i benifit from it? ( right now i just have it at the same length as the stock one

 

You are better off just buying the individual camber adjusters. MMR offers them for roughly the same price as the single adjuster - $125 shipped.

The single subframe adjuster can leave you with uneven camber

 

that 125 is for each link, and you would need two. the center bar is fine for a street car.

anyway, shorten the bar for less camber.

 

No.

$125 for both links. I've bought them.

 

oh holy crap.. the other design (AWR) is 125 each or whatever.

are those MMR ones adjustable on the car? or do you have to unbolt? cant tell from teh pic

 

Individual adjusters can and do lead to binding in the rear, or worse, if you adjust them very far from the stock length, UNLESS you have spherical bearings in your control arms. This will be worse with stiffer bushings, terrible with hard plastic or metal ones. IMHO they should ONLY be used to even out the camber side to side when it's been adjusted with the subframe link.

 

MMR links are adjustable on the car with a 19mm and 17mm wrench. I have them on my car and they are $125 shipped for both sides. I like their design better than the AWR/Mazdatrix style, and they don't need to be lubed constantly.

 

Do you have the MMR spherical control arm bushings? or stock? I want these... and for 125 for both that's a pretty good price..

 

I have both the LCA bearings and the adjusters. I don't run the adjustable sublink because I have solid subframe bushings. The individual adjusters work ok with the stock rubber bushings, but I would not want to use the rubber bushings forever. I ran them for a couple track days, and they seemed ok before I swapped them out.

 

one of my AWR links is always coming lose, and dials out camber on the one wheel. its annoying...

i think im gonna have to get an MMR set

 

You can just replace the locknut right?

 

im pretty sure there is a slight twisting action as the control arm moves, unscrewing the top locknut.
its only on the passenger side, and would make sense considering the threading. if the motion loosens one side, it would tighten the other

 

I haven't noticed that issue on mine so far. I think I'd try all metal locknuts, reverse threaded hardware and/or locktite before buying new parts.