ZUL FC3S

hy to all,anybody can help and tell me how can i adjust my s4 fc3s rear chamber.. hope everybody can help me.. thks

Battle Cat

iTrader: (78)

Chamber?

do you mean camber?

ZUL FC3S

yup,rear camber degree.. sory for wrong spelling.. thks

Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=04-7421-0000

Battle Cat

iTrader: (78)

do you have coilovers currently on the car??

ZUL FC3S

yup bro,i hav install rear jic coilover...

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Do you need to adjust the chamber because the tires have no thread???

Battle Cat

iTrader: (78)

So now you have wayyy to much camber right?.?


your gonna need this then(like posted earlier)http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=04-7421-0000


your gonna need this to adjust the rear camber..

alerx7

i installed that adjustable ream camber arm , but im a noob to suspension and stuff . if i raise it or lower it wats do i benifit from it? ( right now i just have it at the same length as the stock one

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

You are better off just buying the individual camber adjusters. MMR offers them for roughly the same price as the single adjuster - $125 shipped.

The single subframe adjuster can leave you with uneven camber

Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

that 125 is for each link, and you would need two. the center bar is fine for a street car.

anyway, shorten the bar for less camber.

HotRodMex

iTrader: (3)

No.

$125 for both links. I've bought them.

Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

oh holy crap.. the other design (AWR) is 125 each or whatever.

are those MMR ones adjustable on the car? or do you have to unbolt? cant tell from teh pic

Black91n/a

Individual adjusters can and do lead to binding in the rear, or worse, if you adjust them very far from the stock length, UNLESS you have spherical bearings in your control arms. This will be worse with stiffer bushings, terrible with hard plastic or metal ones. IMHO they should ONLY be used to even out the camber side to side when it's been adjusted with the subframe link.

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

MMR links are adjustable on the car with a 19mm and 17mm wrench. I have them on my car and they are $125 shipped for both sides. I like their design better than the AWR/Mazdatrix style, and they don't need to be lubed constantly.

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

Do you have the MMR spherical control arm bushings? or stock? I want these... and for 125 for both that's a pretty good price..

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

I have both the LCA bearings and the adjusters. I don't run the adjustable sublink because I have solid subframe bushings. The individual adjusters work ok with the stock rubber bushings, but I would not want to use the rubber bushings forever. I ran them for a couple track days, and they seemed ok before I swapped them out.

Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

one of my AWR links is always coming lose, and dials out camber on the one wheel. its annoying...

i think im gonna have to get an MMR set

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

You can just replace the locknut right?

Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

im pretty sure there is a slight twisting action as the control arm moves, unscrewing the top locknut.
its only on the passenger side, and would make sense considering the threading. if the motion loosens one side, it would tighten the other

Black91n/a

I haven't noticed that issue on mine so far. I think I'd try all metal locknuts, reverse threaded hardware and/or locktite before buying new parts.