ok - please dont tell me to search because i have and i've read about 20 threads on this subject - so now that's out of the way

i was driving on i95 last night going into philly and i saw a sweet widebody s14 with deep dish wheels... they were real deep dish like... deep you could put an entire cell phone into the lip deep dish

so i started looking around and since i was going to widebody my car anyways, i figure why not...

does anyone have more info on what wheels work well for this or where to get wheels like this?

i saw the panasport c5cr and the classic jdm-style zzyzx wheels, but i haven't been able to find much info on genuine deep dish wheels. please understand me here. i'm not looking for a cute 1-inch lip. i'm talking about stick your entire fist into the deep dish wheel.

can someone please post some info here or post some pics on this because i think it looks incredible...

 

Too many variables.

Do you want to stay stock metal? or over fenders?

Square , or stretched tire fitment?

You can get a decent amount of dish on stock FC/FD metal with camber, and stretch. Usually also depends on width and disk type of the wheel your looking for.

 

What kinda wheels do you like?

Flat face old school (starting to become new school drift wheels) Like work eurolines?

Or Something like a super deep s1?

 

i'd prefer to run stock bodywork, but i would change if i found a drop-dead set of wheels i was hell bent on getting on the car... the car needs a paint job and some light bodywork so its sort of like why the hell not? i dont want my why the hell not to turn into a juiceh project, (much love for the project, but just saying...) so i'm thinking stock bodywork and some type of staggered setup but not real sure... not going for the japanese underfit tire thing... so i guess that's square tire setup

work eurolines aren't that hot in my opinion but the s1's are gorgeous! i guess i just need to keep looking around for a while and figure out what my thing is...

risky... what did you have in mind for stock body work - i 'll be running stance gr+ pros with fully rebuilt suspension - not super-slammed, but low and corner-balanced of course....

 

how much money do you have?

 

i def have enough... but thats not to say i'm going to dump excess... i like value...

i'd say... i'd be cool with a wheel and tire package that came out to 2k (including lug nuts, center caps, tires, wheels, spacers, studs, etc) which i think is def doable given the prices i've seen....

and then i guess i'll have to price the paint job out... i'm guessing that'll be at least 1k to be anywhere near decent and then probably 2k if i tack on all the wide/body work parts...

what do you think?

 

Check out this thread on the Watanabe R-Type

https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/watanabe-r-type-wheels-fc-783731/

 

Sounds good.

Are you willing to significant amounts of camber, and smaller sidewall/
stretched tires...

If so. You can get somewhere close to JTPs old set up on stock metal.

18x10 front and rear +15 front +0 in the rear.

But he was running 215/40 all around, and lots of negative camber.

I ran Work VS-XX 17x8/9 +10/+5 on stock metal, no pulls, barely rolling fenders.
I also ran AME Tracers 18x9/10 +22, on stock metal, slightly pulled rears. 3mm spacer to clear coilover in front.

Now I have some SSR SP1s in 18x9/10 +10 all around, Again. Stock metal.

Depending on the disk sizing.
Low, Mid and High ( Max. Brake Clearance - Least Lip )
You can get away with low disk wheels for front and rear.
FC fronts have no problem clearing the caliper with low offset in front.

Overfenders, the sky is the limit really. You can almost fit anything
with enough camber and stretch.

 

Chris - Thanks for the post on Watanabes... they are hot as hell...

Risky... Thanks again... I need to check out all of those wheels


I'd prefer to keep camber in the front between -1.0 and -2.0 for the street but i'd probably push it between -2 and -3 for track sessions. as for the rear - i'm thinking camber between 0 and -1 on the street and -1 to -1.5 on the track. What kind of numbers were you thinking about or do you have experience with and could suggest? I was reading alot about higher camber levels in the rear but anything real high and i'd need bearings and all the supernow / awr adjusters which i wasn't planning on outright.

The rear susp is going to be:
stock subframe
graphite poly outer trailing arm mounts with stock toe eccentrics
stock good lateral links
stock good mini links
polyurethane on-car adjustable center camber arm
polyurethane rear steer eliminator and good stock pillow ball hub mounts
s4 tii diff
929 axles


I could be wrong, but I don't think this setup is sufficient at camber lower than -2 degrees. What do you think? I guess as always, you gotta pay to play.

 

screw the center bar- your camber wont be even.
buy indiv adjusters. if you manage to max those out, THEN buy a center bar.

 

i was pm'ing back and forth with 86na and he said that you can't run side-based adjusters unless you have bearings on the pickup points or binding will definitely occur. he said what he did was use the side adjusters to even it out... nothing more.... and then he used the center bar to set the amount...

 

What he said^^ You should only use the individual adjusters for small increments to level things out and the middle adjuster for full range unless you replace the main trailing pivots with AWR spearical bearings. If you use too much individual adjusters, you'll get binding. The spearincal bearings are really nice (and not cheap) and I was thinking of getting them, but I'm not sure how much vibration they'd transmit back into the cabin (it still is a street car afterall). But maybe the subframe bushings are sufficient to cancel out the vibrations from the spearicle bearings?

~Mike................

 

i already have the mmr direct urethane inserts... i could always not install them of course, but yeah... thats why i don't want that stuff back there to be honest....

i should just get a mild lip set of RPF1s and be done with it.... haha... right now my rear camber alignment is -1.3 on the drivers side and -1.1 i mean... i agree thats not equal... but come on... thats fine in the bigger picture... i know i'm going to contradict myself and bearing out the entire car... ha

 

btw... Josh... are you still selling your car? If that hedge fund manager ever calls em back i might be in Portland before I can sneeze.

 

its totally possible to put huge lips on stock fenders, yes lots of variables. i can fit a phone even on my front lips all on stock fenders. best bet is to find a nice used set. for under 2k thats pretty doable. thats around what i spent with new tires for my current on car wheels.


3 1/2 inches front 4 1/2 rear, lipage.

 

thats gangsta... wheels aren't my style but the lips... WOW

 

yah my car is perpetually for sale...
about the camber links- what are symptoms of binding? i've been running the indiv adjusters super screwed in, and my car seems fine.. (with stock front trailing arm bushings)
the downside to the center bar is it changes your pinion angle.

 

OMG, those look like "Hammers" I had on my mini truck low rider way back in 92 LOL.

~Mike..........

 

Stock bushings aren't as bad as replacement poly ones like I have. If your not binding, don't sweet it.

~Mike..........

 

yeah - i've heard stock ones are fine... MMR direct now offers trailing arm bearings and indv. camb. adj. they explicitly say you require the trailing arm bearings to run the camb. adj. unless you are running stock rubber bushings. the website says if you are running poly or delrin you are advised highly to not use their camb. adj.

interesting that a vendors claims that.... so their is def. some creedance to it...

 

oohh
poly bushings are a no-no up there anyway. i thought that was common knowledge. or at least more widely preached.
yah def use either stock bushings, or the bearings. and indiv's

 

I'm not gonna lie... I have the loot to do any one of these things but I look at these decisions like what is the "smartest value".

I just think that if you do the bearings, you have to do the lateral links, the trailing arm pillow ball mounts, and the individual adjusters. By the time you do all that you are at least $600 in the hole and you've firmed up the FC's "squirrel-ness" related to the uncertainty of the rear suspenion. How reliable is this stuff though? My guess is that its not as reliable as anyone would for a car that is daily driven.... That goes through snow, and salt, and rain, and rough roads. I just think it'd get ugly really quickly back there and it wouldn't be as "maintainence-free" as advertised. The factory stuff was pretty decent in that regard.....

What do you think?
I guess out of all of these we are getting: run stock rear susp. except subframe mounts, dtss bushings, and center camber adjuster.