FC suspension tuning
#1
Becoming pure track...
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FC suspension tuning
So, I was wondering what is needed for each dynamic tuning.
Like....
What do I use for adjusting castor?
I've seen camber adjusters for the back, what is the best for the front?
Also, what about Toe?
I'd like to try to get it really tuned in.
I've been reading about what each does, but looking for what I need to really adjust them well.
Any information would be great! Thank you!
Like....
What do I use for adjusting castor?
I've seen camber adjusters for the back, what is the best for the front?
Also, what about Toe?
I'd like to try to get it really tuned in.
I've been reading about what each does, but looking for what I need to really adjust them well.
Any information would be great! Thank you!
#2
Theoretical Tinkerer
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^The ground control plates are adjustable for castor and camber.
The slotted mounting bolts make it caster adjustable.
The slotted bearing mount make it camber adjustable.
Toe is done with stock tie rods and linkages.
If you're really serious about it, you'll need solid bushings and heim joints where applicable to hold the adjustments.
Sounds like you just need to spend some quality time under the car with the suspension section of the fsm.
#3
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Thanks!
Yes, I've been reading the FSM suspension section a lot.
I'm going to be getting solid mounts where needed.
Looks like those ground control only work with coilovers. I have RB springs / KYB AGX atm.
Do you know in terms of degrees, how far the plates allow adjustment of camber and castor?
Yes, I've been reading the FSM suspension section a lot.
I'm going to be getting solid mounts where needed.
Looks like those ground control only work with coilovers. I have RB springs / KYB AGX atm.
Do you know in terms of degrees, how far the plates allow adjustment of camber and castor?
#4
Theoretical Tinkerer
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You can use camber plates with stock style springs, but you're limited to about 1.5 deg camber until the spring hits the strut tower. The GC setup should get you at least 2.5 degrees using common 2.5" diameter springs. Someone here made modified strut mounts to allow more camber adjustment too.
The max adjustment tends to vary from car to car, I dont know why.
I don't think I've every seen anyone messing with caster. They usually just max out the adjustment and leave it there.
What kind of use and tire is the car going to get? It's pretty easy to get it 90% of the way there, it's pushing for that last 10% that gets real tricky and expensive.
The max adjustment tends to vary from car to car, I dont know why.
I don't think I've every seen anyone messing with caster. They usually just max out the adjustment and leave it there.
What kind of use and tire is the car going to get? It's pretty easy to get it 90% of the way there, it's pushing for that last 10% that gets real tricky and expensive.
#5
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I'm not sure on tires yet.
Car will be pure track, so they will be race tires. I've seen some hosier (sp?) tires that look pretty nice.
Any suggestions?
I was also going to use the stock rim for now, but I don't think any of the race tires fit it.
I'll have to check out those camber plates.
Car will be pure track, so they will be race tires. I've seen some hosier (sp?) tires that look pretty nice.
Any suggestions?
I was also going to use the stock rim for now, but I don't think any of the race tires fit it.
I'll have to check out those camber plates.
#6
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Hoosiers are the stickiest tires we've run, they also have the shortest life. they also like a big rim, so in a 225 tire you want an 8" wheel. you could run stock wheels, but you'd want a 195 instead of a 205. it sounds weird but it'll work better, in a Hoosier. a 195 hoosier will still be 1/2" wider than a Hankook slick
most camber plates should do about -4 degrees, depending on the car and ride height. -4 is probably about right with a really sticky tire.
with the AGX's a 300-400 lbs/in in the front and 200-250 rear work really well. going to a higher spring rate doesn't make much difference in laptimes, and its getting to the limit of the shock too.
in the rear you want to run as low as you can without the suspension hitting the floor on bumps, and with the least amount of camber, you want about -1.5, but lowering the car gets you like -3...
most camber plates should do about -4 degrees, depending on the car and ride height. -4 is probably about right with a really sticky tire.
with the AGX's a 300-400 lbs/in in the front and 200-250 rear work really well. going to a higher spring rate doesn't make much difference in laptimes, and its getting to the limit of the shock too.
in the rear you want to run as low as you can without the suspension hitting the floor on bumps, and with the least amount of camber, you want about -1.5, but lowering the car gets you like -3...
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#8
1308ccs of awesome
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if you're super serious about turning this into a track only race car you might want to swap to a coilover spring setup sooner rather than later. Just having the ability to swap out different springs rates is really helpful. you can also fit more front tire with coilover springs.
This is what I'm talking about:
Ground Control - Coilover Conversion kit, 86-92 Mazda RX7
also, I've never seen anyone get -4* of camber out of camber plates, I've seen between -3*and -3.5* maxed out. you can probably get more if you start cutting the strut towers up...
This is what I'm talking about:
Ground Control - Coilover Conversion kit, 86-92 Mazda RX7
also, I've never seen anyone get -4* of camber out of camber plates, I've seen between -3*and -3.5* maxed out. you can probably get more if you start cutting the strut towers up...
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Hmmmm,
What about
Mazda 1986-1992 RX7 (FC) Megan Racing Track Coilover Damper Kit (MR-CDK-MRX86TS)|Megan Racing High Performance Race Suspension Systems
??
Or are their any other full coilover kits? I don't mind spending $2k or so.
What about
Mazda 1986-1992 RX7 (FC) Megan Racing Track Coilover Damper Kit (MR-CDK-MRX86TS)|Megan Racing High Performance Race Suspension Systems
??
Or are their any other full coilover kits? I don't mind spending $2k or so.
#10
1308ccs of awesome
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megans aren't that great for track use.
you need a quality damper (shock) which you'll really only get with koni or bilstein (or something much more expensive)
read this site, it's very good and will answer a ton of your questions:
Autocross to Win (DGs Autocross Secrets) - Buying Shocks
me and josh18_2k have built custom bilstein coilovers (slightly differently):
https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-w...thread-955929/
(i've also had double adjustable konis and JICs, I like my bilsteins the best)
or you can get front housings from AWR and use different strut inserts:
Strut Tubes - Front - ITS And Street - 1986-1992 RX-7 - AWR Racing Store
AWR can provide you with a complete solution if you don't want to peice something together.
track suspensions for FCs are kind of difficult
you need a quality damper (shock) which you'll really only get with koni or bilstein (or something much more expensive)
read this site, it's very good and will answer a ton of your questions:
Autocross to Win (DGs Autocross Secrets) - Buying Shocks
me and josh18_2k have built custom bilstein coilovers (slightly differently):
https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-w...thread-955929/
(i've also had double adjustable konis and JICs, I like my bilsteins the best)
or you can get front housings from AWR and use different strut inserts:
Strut Tubes - Front - ITS And Street - 1986-1992 RX-7 - AWR Racing Store
AWR can provide you with a complete solution if you don't want to peice something together.
track suspensions for FCs are kind of difficult
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eage8, thanks for the info!
I'll read up on it. If I need to buy Koni or something, I will.
Still got the rest of the year to really decide. Rebuilding motor right now.
I'll read up on it. If I need to buy Koni or something, I will.
Still got the rest of the year to really decide. Rebuilding motor right now.
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they both handle well, the real surprise is that the car with the Koni's actually rides better too, its actually nicer than a stock FC
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