Irentat

iTrader: (1)

Hey all,

First off, I have a completely adjustable rear. Pretty much every option available. I have my alignment pretty damn good now finally with camber measured by tire temps. The one thing I am looking for is an idea of the acceptable extremes to put my rear toe in road racing applications.

Currently, I have it at about 1/8" total toe in but have hear of people going close to 1/2" in. The main thing I am looking for is exit oversteer compensation. Right now, I would say my setting is not enough and am looking for possibly 1/4" toe in but then hear that too much and you can get snap oversteer. I have hefty torque at over 400 ft-lb at the rear wheel so this is an issue.

What have people found to work?

Thanks,
Ben

junito1

Im interested as well. Since im slowly changing from drift to grip.

Right now im working on getting the most rubber that i could possibly get in the front fenders, with a small pull/roll.

BUt as for toe setting I have not read much info. There is a forum that has every suspension setting for evos. front & rear TOE,camber,height,etc. From street to track.

We need something like that for fc's.

Maybe some fulltime scca guys with fc's could chime in with szome of their setting-trail and errors info.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

I had a real problem getting traction on corner exit in my TII w/ 255/275 NT01.

I ditched the rear sway bar, changed out the JIC FLT-A2 for FLT-TAR
(same spring rate but much softer rear compression damping), swapped the clutch type diff for a Torsen and went from 0 toe in rear to .21 deg per side.

I can now get on the gas BEFORE the apex and pedal down once I clear it with no drama. Not skittish in the rear on braking now either!

Let the rear hook up!

Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

if you have a rear bar, ditch that crap. its probably the #1 contributor to exit oversteer (not being able to put down the power)

Irentat

iTrader: (1)

Deeyam! Look at that inner front tire off the ground. You have too much front bar but then if you soften the front, it would take traction from the rear. Any kind of understeer present in your setup?

Irentat

iTrader: (1)

Already ditched. Believe me, I have been all through the car and have looked and done everything to look at these issues. Right now, rear toe is my focus.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Hmmm.... I guess that explains the various unexpected spins I had in my FC on track back in the day. Wish I had known back then.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Deeyam! Look at that inner front tire off the ground. You have too much front bar but then if you soften the front, it would take traction from the rear. Any kind of understeer present in your setup?

No understeer yet when racing in Auto-X, track or hillclimb that I noticed.

The front end sometimes does feel light when accelerating hard out of a corner past the apex in 2nd (you can see why).

It is at the moment that on the old suspension set up I would have been frantically turning toward countersteer to keep on line. Now I feel like I am just unwinding the wheel and the resistance is strangely low.

The car was so hooked up on the hillclimb that the 340RWHP @12psi felt kinda slow and relaxed.

Later @ 14psi it was still very relaxed on the track even in the rain, just had to alter shift points a bit to be out of powerband or between gears in certain areas of the track.

Started getting top times of day finally with the current set up.

Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

lifting the front inside tire is common on mac strutted race cars. look at just about any fast bmw in an autocross..
mac struts :
a) need a LOT of roll stiffness to work well
b) have a **** camber curve, so the inside tire barely does anything anyway

gawdodirt

Maybe a silly question , but have you eliminated the toe steer bushings? I was looking at the whole package and that was my first item to get rid of for predictability.


gd

Irentat

iTrader: (1)

Yes. Any suggestions on the toe settings?