Evo brembo are direct bolt on for FD3S
11-23-09, 02:42 PM
#127
Racing Rotary Since 1983
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Roger Mandeville no longer offers the front brake mod.
for those that might want to do it themselves all that is needed to vastly upgrade the front FD brakes is to find a nice rotor, IMO the RacingBrake rotor is it, but you could find something of an upgrade in the bonyard too. probably 13 X 1.25. or circletrack rotors.
split the front FD caliper by adding a couple of spacers, and lengthen the caliper fluid crossover lines.
since you are not adding larger pistons the bias will be close to o k. the only additional front bias will come from a larger rotor.
you could trim it off by adding the RacingBrake larger rear rotor.
done properly this setup would be relatively inexpensive and work well on track.
howard
for those that might want to do it themselves all that is needed to vastly upgrade the front FD brakes is to find a nice rotor, IMO the RacingBrake rotor is it, but you could find something of an upgrade in the bonyard too. probably 13 X 1.25. or circletrack rotors.
split the front FD caliper by adding a couple of spacers, and lengthen the caliper fluid crossover lines.
since you are not adding larger pistons the bias will be close to o k. the only additional front bias will come from a larger rotor.
you could trim it off by adding the RacingBrake larger rear rotor.
done properly this setup would be relatively inexpensive and work well on track.
howard
11-23-09, 03:09 PM
#128
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hmm I wonder if I could get my machine shop buddy to do a run of the spacers.
Would the racing brake rotor require the caliper to be spaced out and "widened" or is it stock diameter?
Would the racing brake rotor require the caliper to be spaced out and "widened" or is it stock diameter?
11-23-09, 07:01 PM
#129
Racing Rotary Since 1983
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the RB rear rotor uses the stock FD rear caliper and an extension bracket. it is a really nice setup.
as far as the front, RB makes a stock config rotor, which would not fit the plan, and a 13 X 1.3 inch rotor that is a masterpiece. while most rotors look similar, sort of like tires black and round, the are not.
RB makes the hub/rotor in two offsets. check their site.
Coleman (no relation) makes a great deal of the circle track/racing rotors but if you plan to spend some money read the first post in my FD new Brake Options thread and you will be impressed.
there probably some boneyard options out there... combined w re-jiggered Mazda front calipers and RB rears and you have a neat setup.
hc
as far as the front, RB makes a stock config rotor, which would not fit the plan, and a 13 X 1.3 inch rotor that is a masterpiece. while most rotors look similar, sort of like tires black and round, the are not.
RB makes the hub/rotor in two offsets. check their site.
Coleman (no relation) makes a great deal of the circle track/racing rotors but if you plan to spend some money read the first post in my FD new Brake Options thread and you will be impressed.
there probably some boneyard options out there... combined w re-jiggered Mazda front calipers and RB rears and you have a neat setup.
hc
01-02-10, 12:15 AM
#130
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Well I really like the idea...I am going to try this i have the calipers and rotors and we have access tp a great machine shop so I am going to be doing this.....I have to agree with howard the key is to find away to balance this out to a 60:40 for the street in my viewI know howard is 70 30 but I believe he is a track guy at heart and Yaw is my mentor so i will stick with that advice.
So to get this right the following must be done, attention curacaosfinest and rotormotor
1. machine the g37s rotor out to the same spec as stock.
2. Grind down the bracket so that the castings are now a machined true surface?
3. cut the shield
4. switch bleeders with cross tube(reverse)
5. drill out fd threads to accept evo mounting hardware
6. verify wheel fittment?
I gather that is it? i read something about machining the hub...maybe read it wrong scanned thread again and did not see it. Please let me know what else is there to to do
I will let everyone know soon how it goes
So to get this right the following must be done, attention curacaosfinest and rotormotor
1. machine the g37s rotor out to the same spec as stock.
2. Grind down the bracket so that the castings are now a machined true surface?
3. cut the shield
4. switch bleeders with cross tube(reverse)
5. drill out fd threads to accept evo mounting hardware
6. verify wheel fittment?
I gather that is it? i read something about machining the hub...maybe read it wrong scanned thread again and did not see it. Please let me know what else is there to to do
I will let everyone know soon how it goes
01-02-10, 02:51 AM
#131
Sorry if I sound stupid, but what if you use the evo's rear calipers also? I have not looked at them so I don't know if it is even possible. Here are the evo brake specs I found for the rear.
Front disc: 320x32mm
Rear disc: 300x22mm
Front caliper: 4-piston 40/46mm pistons
Rear caliper: 2-piston 40mm pistons
I have not really looked into the swap to much yet, but if the problem is the brake bias can't it be fixed by using the matching rear calipers? If it dose not work this way please enlighten me.
Front disc: 320x32mm
Rear disc: 300x22mm
Front caliper: 4-piston 40/46mm pistons
Rear caliper: 2-piston 40mm pistons
I have not really looked into the swap to much yet, but if the problem is the brake bias can't it be fixed by using the matching rear calipers? If it dose not work this way please enlighten me.
01-02-10, 10:15 AM
#134
yezzir mr.glen thats what you're looking for...those are pretty much all the steps
the one thing you really having to look out for is that you measure how much the rotor has moved inwards when its sitting flat against the hub once you open up the g37s rotor...and thats how much you have to machine down the caliper bracket so that the rotor still sits in the dead center of the caliper
the one thing you really having to look out for is that you measure how much the rotor has moved inwards when its sitting flat against the hub once you open up the g37s rotor...and thats how much you have to machine down the caliper bracket so that the rotor still sits in the dead center of the caliper
Well I really like the idea...I am going to try this i have the calipers and rotors and we have access tp a great machine shop so I am going to be doing this.....I have to agree with howard the key is to find away to balance this out to a 60:40 for the street in my viewI know howard is 70 30 but I believe he is a track guy at heart and Yaw is my mentor so i will stick with that advice.
So to get this right the following must be done, attention curacaosfinest and rotormotor
1. machine the g37s rotor out to the same spec as stock.
2. Grind down the bracket so that the castings are now a machined true surface?
3. cut the shield
4. switch bleeders with cross tube(reverse)
5. drill out fd threads to accept evo mounting hardware
6. verify wheel fittment?
I gather that is it? i read something about machining the hub...maybe read it wrong scanned thread again and did not see it. Please let me know what else is there to to do
I will let everyone know soon how it goes
So to get this right the following must be done, attention curacaosfinest and rotormotor
1. machine the g37s rotor out to the same spec as stock.
2. Grind down the bracket so that the castings are now a machined true surface?
3. cut the shield
4. switch bleeders with cross tube(reverse)
5. drill out fd threads to accept evo mounting hardware
6. verify wheel fittment?
I gather that is it? i read something about machining the hub...maybe read it wrong scanned thread again and did not see it. Please let me know what else is there to to do
I will let everyone know soon how it goes
01-02-10, 10:29 AM
#135
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yezzir mr.glen thats what you're looking for...those are pretty much all the steps
the one thing you really having to look out for is that you measure how much the rotor has moved inwards when its sitting flat against the hub once you open up the g37s rotor...and thats how much you have to machine down the caliper bracket so that the rotor still sits in the dead center of the caliper
the one thing you really having to look out for is that you measure how much the rotor has moved inwards when its sitting flat against the hub once you open up the g37s rotor...and thats how much you have to machine down the caliper bracket so that the rotor still sits in the dead center of the caliper
I was looking at an old turbo magazine and saw an fd with what looks like a brembo bbk after some calls its the same caliper yet they made a bracket for the caliper to bolt on...HMMMM
01-03-11, 05:07 PM
#142
Rotary Freak
Had a cursory look clamping some mate's Evo ones onto some spare uprights, 12 odd months back.
Other than bolt spacing being the same, doesn't really fly. Measuring from the outside edge of the pads to the centre of the spindle, the larger rotor seems a feat of magic for me at least. Centering the rotor in the caliper - depending on which side of the mount you place them - would appear to require some odd gymnastics with the hat, then you've got the bias problems outlined previously. If you were really determined to use them, a dog-bone relocating the calipers would be my method of choice.
Other than bolt spacing being the same, doesn't really fly. Measuring from the outside edge of the pads to the centre of the spindle, the larger rotor seems a feat of magic for me at least. Centering the rotor in the caliper - depending on which side of the mount you place them - would appear to require some odd gymnastics with the hat, then you've got the bias problems outlined previously. If you were really determined to use them, a dog-bone relocating the calipers would be my method of choice.
02-14-12, 12:02 PM
#144
Wastegate John
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He abandoned the project.
https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/ksport-big-brake-kit-any-experience-951900/
https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/ksport-big-brake-kit-any-experience-951900/
^^^ to be really honest guys...i wised up lol
im all for doing DIY stuff, love getting my hands dirty and all...and both kits worked, got them all bolted up and all i needed to do was bleed the lines and go...but i got nervous
i do track days with my car and i saw someone boil their brake fluid in a miata, hit the wall and the car was totaled...that was the point at which i realized that as sure as i am that the brakes will work and all, im just not willing to take the risk
i sold all the parts and just saved until now, so i can buy a kit thats been tested and reviewed...i'll save the DIY for everything else on the car lol
im all for doing DIY stuff, love getting my hands dirty and all...and both kits worked, got them all bolted up and all i needed to do was bleed the lines and go...but i got nervous
i do track days with my car and i saw someone boil their brake fluid in a miata, hit the wall and the car was totaled...that was the point at which i realized that as sure as i am that the brakes will work and all, im just not willing to take the risk
i sold all the parts and just saved until now, so i can buy a kit thats been tested and reviewed...i'll save the DIY for everything else on the car lol
05-10-20, 12:26 PM
#145
RAISED FROM THE GRAVE:
I completed this Brembo / G37S project (front brakes only) at about the same time as curacaosfinest, after which I have driven extensively on the street with them, and run a few different track days over the years.
You'll want to open up the center bore of the G37S rotors 2mm, this will allow SOME buildup of material without seizing the rotor to the hub, and it allows for heating and cooling of the materials without undue stress. I also recommend drilling out the threads on the car itself, so you can bolt the caliper on properly - IF you do this though, be aware that there is no turning back after this, you cannot bolt the stock brakes back on without replacing parts. Once it is drilled out you will want to use a grinder or machine shop to ensure the mounting ear is flat. I used a grinder and a set of calipers (measuring kind) to ensure I made the surface flat and parallel with the backside of the mounting ears. After which it is really some minor trial and error using washers as spacers to space the caliper and the rotor evenly, mine took two washers per bolt. Super, super easy thing to do, especially since I ditched the ABS and ran new brake hard lines. One day I'll take the time to figure out the rear Brembos, but it has not been a priority.
Having said all that, I highly recommend having an adjustable brake bias set up for this project. I went with a Wilwood adjuster and bolted it next to the driver's seat.
I completed this Brembo / G37S project (front brakes only) at about the same time as curacaosfinest, after which I have driven extensively on the street with them, and run a few different track days over the years.
You'll want to open up the center bore of the G37S rotors 2mm, this will allow SOME buildup of material without seizing the rotor to the hub, and it allows for heating and cooling of the materials without undue stress. I also recommend drilling out the threads on the car itself, so you can bolt the caliper on properly - IF you do this though, be aware that there is no turning back after this, you cannot bolt the stock brakes back on without replacing parts. Once it is drilled out you will want to use a grinder or machine shop to ensure the mounting ear is flat. I used a grinder and a set of calipers (measuring kind) to ensure I made the surface flat and parallel with the backside of the mounting ears. After which it is really some minor trial and error using washers as spacers to space the caliper and the rotor evenly, mine took two washers per bolt. Super, super easy thing to do, especially since I ditched the ABS and ran new brake hard lines. One day I'll take the time to figure out the rear Brembos, but it has not been a priority.
Having said all that, I highly recommend having an adjustable brake bias set up for this project. I went with a Wilwood adjuster and bolted it next to the driver's seat.
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