Suspension/Wheels/Tires/Brakes

Evo brembo are direct bolt on for FD3S

Old Oct 18, 2009 | 09:29 AM
  #26  
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Are sti calipers the same as evo calipers? If they are it would open up more caliper options.
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by FDWarrior
Are sti calipers the same as evo calipers? If they are it would open up more caliper options.
I think that all Brembo OEM equipment have a standard bolt set...i had a Lexus ISF caliper that i was going to test fit, and from wut i remember the bolts holes look to be pretty the same distance apart

so i'm thinking that you can do this kit with calipers from the STI, EVO, ISF, Mercedes AMG series, maybe the porsche big reds or yellows, jaguar R series cars, and i'm sure theres others i cant think of right now

if i'm right in that brembo has a standard bolt up for all their OEM equipment, than my discovering this with the evo brakes has opened a hell of a lot of doors in brake upgrades

yessss i feel like a trend setter haha
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 11:42 AM
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ok update on the rears...they arent bolt up like the front

the rear will need a larger diameter rotor, i'm guestimating at 15-20mm larger
and you will need to make a bracket, but its an extremely simple bracket to make and you can do it in your garage at home
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 11:59 AM
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ok heres the start of the write up on the front build

the modifications needed to be made are as follows:

Taking care of the bolt issue, theres 2 ways to do it:

method 1:
you will need to retap the threads into the EVO caliper to M12-1.25
then drill the threads out of the FD caliper mounting holes
then bolt it up with the stock FD bolt

Method 2:
you will need to buy the EVO's OEM caliper mounting bolts
then drill out the threads of the FD's caliper mounting holes
and then bolt it all up with the EVO's bolts
***i dont know if the evo bolts will tie down with no play in the FD's mounting holes***


the next Mod you will need to do is cut the flaps on the dust shield behind the rotors
the ones that go over the top and the bottom of the rotor

simply get a grinder or even a dremel and cut the flaps clean off, then the 2 edges that are left over on the caliper side will need to be shaved off too to keep them from hitting the caliper

once you're done with those 2 Mods, simply bolt everything up with the g37s rotor

screw the brake line into the back of the caliper

slide in the brake pads and clip everything up...I'll be using Hawk HPS pads

bleed the brakes...I recommend ATE SuperBlue or RBF 600 brake fluid or ELF Frelub 650

nows the last thing you will have to take into account once you've put your whole set up together...wheel fitment

i will have to run a 5mm spacer to clear the caliper...this will be different depending on what wheels you have so once you have everything together...throw the wheels on and see whats up

if you guys have any questions of details on certain things, go ahead and ask away...i'm waiting for the brake pads and fluid to arrive so once they do i can put everything together
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 03:36 PM
  #30  
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what wheels do you have?
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 06:17 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by TRISPEEDFD3S
what wheels do you have?
on the street i run these pretty shitty HP racing wheels, but for event, meets, and shows i run ISS Forged
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 10:38 PM
  #32  
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OH Sounds killer

Where did you buy the front and rear calipers? Are they red Brembos? I'm curious to hear your road test review on the fronts. Good luck.
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 11:56 PM
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i just started searching ebay, craigslist, and amazon...

i finnally decided on a set that i found on ebay, lucky enough the guy was local so i checked em out and picked up right there for $500 bucks
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 12:05 AM
  #34  
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So is it possible to get a set of 355 rotors that doesnt require the tapping / modification?
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 12:12 AM
  #35  
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0_0 this is relative to my interests, crazy cool ****!!!
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 01:24 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by purerx7
So is it possible to get a set of 355 rotors that doesnt require the tapping / modification?
its not the rotors that need to be tapped...its the bolt holes of the calipers

the rotors from the G37s are 355mm and have the same bolt pattern as the FD
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 02:55 AM
  #37  
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What about boring out the center of the rotor? does the center bore not need to be changed with the g37? what about the rotor offset as well? Wont you need a wheel spacer to clear the rotor? What about moving the cross over tube to the correct location (they are upside down now). There are even more issues with this that I wont list now but I know this because I bought a set of Evo calipers to do this exact same thing. There ARE many more complex problems that you need to solve... you cant just drill the steering knuckle out and bolt them on

Also how are you going to fix the brake bias you are introducing? This is not a simple install, and is the reason I sold off my calipers and modified rotors.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 06:54 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by RotorMotor
What about boring out the center of the rotor?
does the center bore not need to be changed with the g37?
RotorMotor, I haven't seen this in person so I can't really say and the pics are cell pics.. but by looks of it, the center bore of the G37 looks ok.. Unless he opened it up.


Originally Posted by RotorMotor
what about the rotor offset as well? Wont you need a wheel spacer to clear the rotor?
He stated that it needs 5mm spacer to clear the rotor for the wheel he has. Also this will be kind of nice.. as some of the wheels I've looked at doesn't come in FD offset. 5 extra mm of space might be better for someone..

Originally Posted by RotorMotor
What about moving the cross over tube to the correct location (they are upside down now).
I'm not sure what this is...

Originally Posted by RotorMotor
There are even more issues with this that I wont list now but I know this because I bought a set of Evo calipers to do this exact same thing. There ARE many more complex problems that you need to solve... you cant just drill the steering knuckle out and bolt them on
Hmm.. I would like to know more about this and more detail pics..

Originally Posted by RotorMotor
Also how are you going to fix the brake bias you are introducing? This is not a simple install, and is the reason I sold off my calipers and modified rotors.
How about with larger RZ rear or RB rear BBK.. I'm interested in this because I would like to get Disc Brake Australia's 5000 series rotors and use with the caliper I know they make 5000 series for G35 and I'm sure they will make it for G37. Then I could use my RZ calipers for my Cosmo to do go bigger and better.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 08:59 AM
  #39  
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Im more concerned about the nearly 30lb rotor. I thought he was exaggerating weight, nope looked it up ,nearly 30lbs. I applaud anyone making an effort to improve things and innovate solutions for our cars, but I'm not sure how good I feel about hanging all that un-sprung weight up front.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 09:16 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by RotorMotor
There ARE many more complex problems that you need to solve... you cant just drill the steering knuckle out and bolt them on

.
please explain...
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 09:37 AM
  #41  
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can u measure the overall diameter of the caliper and rotor so we can see if it will fit our cars(wheel setups)? and finished pics would be great! also, is that that rotor weight just because they are cheap ebay rotors or is that how much they all weigh?
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 09:54 AM
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Nice find, thanks for posting!
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 12:12 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by RotorMotor
What about boring out the center of the rotor? does the center bore not need to be changed with the g37?
the rotors fitted on perfectly with no boring necassary
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by RotorMotor
What about moving the cross over tube to the correct location (they are upside down now).
hes talking about the tube that goes from one side of the caliper to the other for the brake fluid...i was actually thinking about this myself and maybe you can help me...

i dont think it will make a difference and if i'm wrong please correct me..but i dont think moving that tube is necessary
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by RotorMotor
There are even more issues with this that I wont list now but I know this because I bought a set of Evo calipers to do this exact same thing. There ARE many more complex problems that you need to solve... you cant just drill the steering knuckle out and bolt them on
i figured that drilling out the FD's mounts wouldnt be the best idea thats why in my brief write up that i did last night, i said that its possible but i dont know if it will work out well, which as u have just confirmed for us it wont lol

but what i'm doing is retaping the mounting holes of the evo calipers to M12-1.25...so that i can get get a fully threaded bolt and run it through the FD mounting hole and into the evo's mounting hole
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by RotorMotor
Also how are you going to fix the brake bias you are introducing? This is not a simple install, and is the reason I sold off my calipers and modified rotors.
i want to see what the bias will be b like once i have the kit up and running...

i'm gona install the fronts first to see how it feels...then once i'm ready i'll install the rear

once i have the rears on i'll decide whether i need to upgrade to a 929 master with a willwood brake bias contoller or not

i really cant answer this question properly till i have everything installed so please excuse my lack of answers, i'm just waiting for the pads to arrive so i bolt up and bleed everything to see what the out come is
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Rxmfn7
Im more concerned about the nearly 30lb rotor. I thought he was exaggerating weight, nope looked it up ,nearly 30lbs. I applaud anyone making an effort to improve things and innovate solutions for our cars, but I'm not sure how good I feel about hanging all that un-sprung weight up front.
thats the major thing for me too...i'm going to get lighter rotors eventually, just using these for now

i'm pretty sure AP racing makes a 2 piece rotor thats gota be at least 2 or 3 pound lighter than these, and i'm pretty sure racing brake and stoptech will all have their 2 piece rotors soon too for the G37

so the unsprung weight issue has its solutions, the only reason i havent bought new rotors is cus i already have these so i figured i might as well just do the kit and fix that issue later on
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by dregg100
can u measure the overall diameter of the caliper and rotor so we can see if it will fit our cars(wheel setups)? and finished pics would be great! also, is that that rotor weight just because they are cheap ebay rotors or is that how much they all weigh?
i will have much more information once i start bolting everything up, just waiting on the brake pads to arrive

i'm gona have at least like 30 or 40 pics of the build in an album that i'll post the link to so you guys can see everything every step of the way

i'm pretty sure that its cus they are cheapy ebay rotors...i know that there are 2 piece oem replacement rotors from stoptech, ap racing, etc...
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 12:31 PM
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please keep asking questions and raising concerns like this guys...i wana try and weed out all possible issues with this cus if we can get this to work flawlessly its a hell of a break through

i mean a front Brembo BBK for less than 800 or 900 bucks is not bad at all

and a full Brembo BBK front and rear for less than like 1500 bucks...
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 12:53 PM
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I know racingbrake already offers a 2-piece aluminum rotor for the G37s, at least they list it on their website. Problem is, is that they are like $450 each. So after you pay about $900 for rotors, $500-1000 for calipers, and then still have to modify things to get them to fit, the bolt on BBKs that are already offered look like a lot better solution. Again, not trying to knock what you are trying to do, just pointing this out.


Originally Posted by curacaosfinest
thats the major thing for me too...i'm going to get lighter rotors eventually, just using these for now

i'm pretty sure AP racing makes a 2 piece rotor thats gota be at least 2 or 3 pound lighter than these, and i'm pretty sure racing brake and stoptech will all have their 2 piece rotors soon too for the G37

so the unsprung weight issue has its solutions, the only reason i havent bought new rotors is cus i already have these so i figured i might as well just do the kit and fix that issue later on
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