I don't think you can get n1 pros anymore can you? The good apex and tanabe coilovers have been gone for awhile.

 

i've still seen them forsale at online stores, i would give them a call, just do a seach online. these were installed at the begining of the year

 

+1
im on the same boat as Zoolander.
+ running 99'bumper+lip. on 17x9 front... so ground clearance?
h&r w/ koni's
rsr down w/koni's
tein SS
tein Flex
need replacement mounts or something to eliminate those creeky noises.

 

tokiko illuminas with H&Rs i might have 4-6 inches of ground clearance and about 1 inch in the wheel well, if that.

 

Apexi EXV have the top mounts...I'm seriously considering picking up a set

http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/apexiexv.htm

 

I'm still a bit confused. Most pictures of coilovers I've seen look like they are ready to install but done so metal to metal. If I want to use the rubber OEM top mounts, then I would have to break apart the coilover assembly and put in the OEM part myself? Who wants to do that? Part of the attraction to a coilover is not having to play with the spring. I've also heard that metal to metal isn't THAT bad on the streets, as the coilover assembly is doing all the dampening if it's done right. Howard Coleman suggested no metal to metal. Owners of coilovers please chime in.

 

I'd like more info on this as well...wrong subforum perhaps

 

update...

Okay, have sold the suspension setup and I am about to pick up a set of Megan Racings that are new in the box...

 

I would really take the time and re-read Moconnor post. He is telling you the truth Unless you do the coil over right you destroy the cars suspension characteristics

 

the tokiko Illuminas and H&Rs with 275/40/18s in back DO NOT FIT, it rubs bad. I'll post up what I decide on when I get around to it. But the guy I bought the rims and tires from had Koni Yellows with GC coilovers.

 

Hopefully your chinese made coilovers don't explode like a guy on the legacy forums who had megans.

CLIFFS: Guy drives over a pothole, megans explode into little bits, car is stuck, gets flat-bedded home. Guy ends up buying real suspension.

 

That would probably be more a problem with either your tire size or the offset of the rims.

I think people usually run 30 or 35 aspect ratio when they move to 18" rims. 285s fit in the back with the correct offset and the smaller coilover springs. I've seen plenty of FD guys run 275/40/17 rear tires with 9"-10" rims and the correct offset.

 

I wouldn't recommend Megans either. They are often over-sprung and have poor damping characteristics due to cheap internal valving.

Why not a set of Koni Yellows with Ground Control threaded adjustable sleeve (to change your ride height like a coilover)?

 

Okay, so after some more research, the megans don't seem to be the way to go...Apexi EXV's? Have read a lot about guys that are happy with them...

Trev

 

If you're not going to the track or autocrossing, coilovers are a waste. They're generally lower, stiffer and more expensive than any other setup. I've got coilovers that are on the very soft end of what's available for an FC and if it weren't for my addiction to track, I might not be willing to put up with the stiff ride. It's not that bad, but it could be (and was) a lot better. Almost all the benefits of coilovers are completly unnecessary on the street. "Pillow ball" upper mounts make the car noisier and harsher riding, adjustable ride heights and the ability to corner weight the car won't really be a concern since you'll set it once and forget it (and probably won't be able to corner weight it), same thing for damping for most people, set it and forget it, so you might as well buy something cheaper that's already at that level. A good spring and performance non-adjustable shock are all you need. You should also think about replacing your bushings and if you want the car to corner a bit flatter, get bigger sways, they'll help without the big ride quality penalty.

If all you want to do is raise the car up a bit for wheel clearance, get some spacers made to fit in between the top of the spring and the top hat (don't put it on the bottom or it'll be unsprung weight). Any half-decent machine shop should be able to do this for you. This will be by far the cheapest and best riding solution.

 

Ijust bought Megan coilovers.I've found no problems with them,I had Tanabe lowering springs before and Tokico adjustable shocks,they were good but the Megans are far better.There is also complaints about rebuilding them.I found this on an other site,The MR coilovers are also fully rebuildable, with MR's ultra convenient dampener insert exchange program. For $75/corner, they will send you a brand new dampener insert. You then simply return your cores. No downtime, as opposed to traditional dampener rebuilds that require that your coilovers be removed and sent in for service. Rebuild intervals on the MR's average 45K miles, which is comparable to most fixed perch struts.

 

Never did get the question answered. Im wondering the same thing.