NoOne

I'm all over the map on suspension...first off I was going all hitech, now I'm thinking cheap because I might sell the car for a C6 in a year or two.

The thing that has me confused is the bushings. If I plan to replace the Toe and trailing arms with adjustable units, and I replace the 6 pillow bushings, along with the rear stay bar, then all that is left to do is the diff bushing, right?

The bushing GP is 275, a set of used toe links are 180, and new trailing links are 225, and a rear stay bar for 145. That would complete my rear suspension bushing wise correct?

What about up front?

I can probably get Tokico shocks on a discount, how are they compared to the other cheap shocks, around 130 a piece?

I've heard good/bad things about Racing Beat sways but have a hard time finding others.

What about front bushings & a good spring setup?

Its a 93 R1 and I'm trying to make it 'new' again by replacing everything I can on the lowest budget possible. I road race it 2-3 times per year and mostly it gets street driven with the wife and I. I'm very interested in good ride characteristics and predictable handling, with a "Here I come" break away point favoring oversteer.

I can forgoe stay bars right now to keep cost down if it does not give me much benefit.

I have to buy the bushings and toe links ASAP to get the good deal so any advice someone can give would be greatly appreciated.

I'm assuming all of this would be an improvement over stock R1 handling also, if I am incorrect please let me know what I'd give up/gain over the stock stuff, and its got 140k so its pretty much shot.

Thanks

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

eric,

you can accomplish a great deal from both a maintainence and performance upgrade perspective on a modest budget.

maintainence.

the FD has lots of suspension bushings. the upper A arm bushings carry almost no vehicle weight and generally never need replacement.

Mazda designed the FD w a real racecar suspension and geometry. Mazda used racecar like components... spherical/rod-ends.... or as they call them pillowball bushings for instance. the lower-located (weight bearing) bushings are a maintainence item.

the good news is that generally only 2 of them on each side of the rear suspension need replacement. they reside in the lower lateral link. you can remove the link, the rubber covers, and C clips and the pillowbal bushings are easy to remove in a few minutes w a press. buy them from Ray Crowe Malloy Mazda and don't forget to order new rubber protective covers.

rear toe links also have a spherical bushing at each end. they are easy to remove w a couple of 14 mm wrenches. after removing the link yank the bushing back and forth to check for play. any play... replace the bushing or link. you can buy aftermarket, Rotary Extreme make a nice link, as do others. there is no performance advantage w aftermarket over stock as they are both spherical bushings. the chances are slim your toe links will require replacement. budget minded will advertise on the classified section of this forum and can probably buy an excellent (no play) set for $50.

which brings us to the prime bushing offender and a major performance upgrade... the big rubber bushing at the front of the rear ( of the car) lower longitudinal link. lots of rubber, lots of forces... braking and acceleration. lots of degradation. lots of out of round tires result.

rubber is a bad material for this bushing. either buy an aftermarket link which will use a rod end or have a nylon type bushing made. i run nylon. you will notice crisper more linear response w this bushing replaced. nylon needs grease or it will squeek so if you have the cash i recommend the aftermarket spherical.

a final bushing if you are looking to upgrade performance would be nylon bushings (2) for the differential. like the lower longitudinal link they are big and rubber and they mess lots of things up. they are easy to make from nylon and again the car will feel much better.

that should do it as far as bushings.

i will now save you some money and literally transform your car.

you have an R1. take all 4 R1 shocks off the car and either use them as a boat anchor or sell them to someone who is in to self flagelation. or better yet trade them for a set of non R1 stock OEM FD shocks. used is fine. i have dynoed over 30 FD shocks and regardless of miles they all were identical. (just make sure they don't leak... i did find one shock w a blown seal)

replace your springs... i enthusiastically recommend the Eibach Pro Kit PN P 55 25 .140. this will increase your spring rate 33% and lower your car just about the right amount. i think they are about $200 and i do see them used in the classifieds.

you will absolutely love this combo. i have a digital spring rater and a shock dyno. the stock FD shocks are excellent and work very well w the Eibach springs. your car will ride easier than presently over the bumps and will feel much tighter in the turns.

if you want to spend more money ( lessthan $1000) i recommend the Tein Flex coil overs. beautifully built, nice adj on the shocks w alot more spring rate up 115% over stock.

spring rates:

OEM stock front 263 pounds per inch, rear 195.
Eibach is 350 f and 255 r
Tein Flex is 566 f and 422 r.

while completely acceptable, the Tein Flex is at the edge of the rate limit for decent streetability.

remember that stiffer is not necessarily faster.

stiffer springs, shocks and swaybars only change the speed at which weight transfers in a corner NOT the amount. the stiffer a car is the harder it is to drive at the limit. since the FD has a racecar suspension ( negative camber gain in bump for example) it is not seriously effected by body roll so you don't have to run huge springs to keep the car from rolling.

more than one person i know has told me that their Eibach springs have been their favorite mod.

finally,

setup.....

after you change the ride height you must realign... if you elected coil overs set your ride height at 25 inches at the wheel well front and rear.

air pressure s/b 30 front 27-28 rear cold.

align 1.2 degrees neg front and rear. toe in less than 1/8 th in front and rear. zero thrust angle.

enjoy,

howard coleman

DamonB

In general I agree with Howard. These cars are more than 10 years old and just because things are worn out does not mean they need to be "upgraded". Replace the worn out parts with new stock parts and the car will immediately improve and last another 10 years.

NoOne

Thanks for the reply, it was very helpful.

I put out a message for stockers, but if I cannot find them how does that spring setup work with either Tokico's, which I can get hopefully very cheap, or the Koni Yellow's?

I have to get this done within the next week or so, if I cannot source stock shocks I'll end up going with one of the two.

Thanks

Section8

iTrader: (6)

Howard,

I'm looking through the shop manual in the rear suspension section, but I'm having a hard time figuring out exactly which bushing you're referring to here.

-Joe

adam c

iTrader: (2)

The lower rear arm has 3 bearings in it. I believe the center bearing attaches to an arm the goes toward the front of the car. The rubber bushing that attaches at the front of this arm is the one Howard is referring to

Section8

iTrader: (6)

Ok, I like diagrams so bear with me. I think you're referring to the bottom left bushing on the trailing link that I have circled?

adam c

iTrader: (2)

That's the one

Section8

iTrader: (6)

Thank you Sir

NoOne

I just missed a set of the RSR coil overs on Ebay today....they were already higher than I wanted price wise but thought I would go one more step, someone else picked them up.

Maybe I'll get lucky and they won't pay....

Otherwise I have a line on the stock shocks and will order the Eibachs and bushings ASAP.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

i am sorry you missed them.... i will say that if you do the bushings, Eibachs and stock shocks you will be shocked (sorry) at how well your car drives... just don't forget to set air press cold at 30/28.

howard coleman

NoOne

I found some stock touring shocks.

They'll be on their way soon along with the Eibach's.

Tires will probably be my biggest upgrade, going from Yokohama A520's, which are great, to Pirelli Corsa's, the Corsa has a 60 tread wear rating and you swear you could pick them up like a basket ball.