LT1-7

I just got my SS lines but I can't seem to double flare them. On the first flare, the tubing keeps slipping down and the flare won't happen. How do I keep it from slipping? I was thinking to use the clamp with some sandpaper but maybe someone knows a better way. The second flare I can do fine but it doesn't matter if I can't get the first flare

maxcooper

I had the same problem -- the tubing kept slipping. Adding a C-clamp in the middle of the flaring thing stopped the slippage.

-Max

LT1-7

thanks max. Again, your help is greatly appreciated

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

I ran into the same problem, but on -6AN SS tube for fuel system. I came up w/ the clamp, but I grooved the "cone" w/ the hard stainless.

Is there a better tool available? Was the flaring tool I used just too cheap and have a soft "cone"? Do I just need to radically taper the end when I deburr before flaring? Lube?

I just don't want to F*&ck up another tool experimenting :-).

I think I might just end up using the anodized? aluminum tube, but I prefer the heat (stays shiny) and vibration fatigue resistance of SS; if I can get it to work...

Gene

iTrader: (1)

Pegasus racing sells a special double flaring tool I think, they claim it's really good.

LT1-7

I must admit, I was skeptical about using a C-clamp but tried it out and it works like a charm. You guys just don't understand how happy I was when the tube started to squish and formed a bell shape

Thanks again guys

jimlab

John, do you have any pictures of the brake lines you're fabricating? Are you adding a 929 master cylinder, or are you replacing all of the lines in the engine bay?

LT1-7

Well, I've been hella lazy these last couple of weeks. I just double flared one line, got too cold, and went back inside I don't know if you know but I took my ABS out. So the only lines I'd have to make are 2 going to the front brakes and one going to the rear. I'm just using the stock master cylinder but will likely upgrade later on

If you look at SP Engineering's Supra7, you can see how my setup is going to be. The hardest part for me so far is using a summit racing tube bender which only bends in large radius and is difficult to fabricate any tubing in small areas. I'll have it done next week probably and post some pics

jimlab

OK, gotcha. You might do something similar to what I plan on doing with my 929 master cylinder (when it shows up), unless you're set on doing it all yourself.

When the 929 MC shows up, I'm just going to bolt the bracket from the FD to it and take it to a brake shop and have them fabricate lines for me. I'm going to be using a seperate reservoir for the clutch master cylinder, so I don't have to swap brake reservoirs (929 has no clutch) and all I need are a couple small lines. I didn't figure that was worth the aggravation of doing it myself or expense of buying a flaring tool, one of the few tools I don't have.

Then again, I am torn between replacing my fuel lines with black braided hose (Earls?) from front to rear, or using hard lines bent to match the stock lines (but in larger diameter, and stainless) under the car. I could always take the stock fuel lines to someone, too, though. I have enough "projects" that I'm going to have to do myself at this point not to want to add anything to the list...

The Aeroquip socketless hose comes in blue or black and is very inexpensive, but the concept of not tightening down the fitting is just alien to me. I'm not sure if I trust a "push on" fuel line, even if it is rated at 250 psi.

jimlab

Funny how many things seem to come full circle for me. Here I am looking for help because my stupid flaring tool doesn't work for ****, and not only do I stumble across a post detailing a way to make it work, but I posted in it saying that I was going to let someone else do the brake line fabrication for me.

I bought a package deal from Eastwood Company for about $49, if anyone is interested, which includes the mid-grade double flare tool, a pipe cutter, and a tubing bender with different sized cams for various line diameters. The bender and cutter work like champs. The flaring tool, on the other hand, was driving me nuts until I decided to search on the forum for the trick to using it, and lo and behold, look what I found...

NewbernD

iTrader: (1)

I used the socketless stuff for my fuel system and if you new what a bear it was to push those bastards on you'd feel comfortable about using it. I like the look of the stainless hose ends instead of the anodized blue/red, and not having to deal with or pay for braided was nice too.

I'm not so keen on the color of the blue hose that's available
(you can see here) and would probably go with the black if I did it again. That, or try to die it a darker blue.

FWIW.

jimlab

I won't be using the socketless hose. I'm going to go with the Aeroquip Startlite Nomex covered hose and "traditional-style" Endura fittings instead.

jimlab

So much for flaring my own brake lines... the 3/16" insert just broke while I was practicing. The "stub" that inserts into the line stayed in the line... boy, that really chaps my hide.

anobii

Dude, I know your pain i went through 2 flaring tool sets, breaking the 3/16 on the first try both times. I think that the brake lines are too strong to do a double flare without a big block chevy turning the handle. I just did a single flare on them and wrenched them down, been goin for a month now with no fitting leaks.

E