On my FD

I got my car re aligned today and the shop was not able to get hte - Camber numbers I had specified .

They said my driver side camber bolt had a flat spot , because they could do it just fine on the passenger side but when ti came to the driver it would not go over -2 camber .

Now this was strange because not 3 months ago I had gotten an alignemnt and everything was fine . ( the previous shop had said that he had to lower caster to 4.0 to get the neg camber I wanted ) and when I looked at hte sheet from the alignment I got to day he had added a degree more caster . and after doing some research blah blah yeah dynamic caster affects camber, ( which is probably why my last shop had to lessen it to 4* . and I was fine with how the car handled and how quick the wheel returned to normal with 4* caster .

BUT! it so happens that I do have a spare camber bolt that I COULD swap in .

But my question is how difficult is it . I read alot of people having to heat the bushing to get the bolt out , and alot of times ruining the bushing .

if thats the case I rather jsut lower caster to 4. and just redo it .

 

I just refreshed my suspension this past weekend and all my camber bolts pop right out, Front & Rear.

 

thank you , I'll be doing it this weekend .

 

+1. If the nut hasn't been cracked in some time, it may need some PB, but once you get that off, the bolt should easily come out (take pressure off the bushings first though and you may need to tap it some).

But, before you go through all that, make sure you aren't getting a line of BS from your shop about it being "flattened".

 

Yeah, just move the arms up and down with a jack till you can push the bolt out with your hand, don't try to tap it out with a hammer if you feel any pressure on the bolt or you might risk damaging the thread.

 

i would mark where it is too.

also the Rx8's bolts are labeled caster and camber, even though they do both, like the FD. the labels seem to fool most shops, so make sure this isn't you. since you have a race car, just loosen both and pull the bottom of the wheel out and forwards as much as you can, this is max camber/castor.

 

The bolts are hardened and will withstand "light" tapping. Just don't start whacking if they don't move with light tapping. If they don't move, that means they are bound somewhere. Jack the arm up or down till the the tension is relieved

 

Best to keep spare new camber bolts on hand, as this is a common issue.