BLUE TII new fitment: stock fenders and 255/40-17 front 275/40-17 rear
09-25-08, 11:32 AM
#26
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oh yeah the new wheels look GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHA!
very nice choice and sizes too, yip yip yip!
nice HONDA GT in the pic too, awesomesauceness.
WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHA!
very nice choice and sizes too, yip yip yip!
nice HONDA GT in the pic too, awesomesauceness.
Last edited by owen is fat; 09-25-08 at 11:35 AM.
09-26-08, 01:11 AM
#27
Mmm, those are nice rims MaczPayne. It looks a bit Sylvia-ish with those and the hatch tint blurring the B pillar line, but in all the right ways (I really like Sylvias).
17x9 +24 looks great up front and I can't say that I am totally against a bit of roll, especially up front where fenders can be replaced.
I ended up w/ the 8.5 +30 in front because that is what came with the 9.5 +40 for the rear and I knew it would fit- I was just trying to get the rear to hook up.
17x9 +24 looks great up front and I can't say that I am totally against a bit of roll, especially up front where fenders can be replaced.
I ended up w/ the 8.5 +30 in front because that is what came with the 9.5 +40 for the rear and I knew it would fit- I was just trying to get the rear to hook up.
12-04-08, 11:49 PM
#29
My suspension is off BLUE TII (and on the running(ish) NA...), so I had a chance to see how the rear will clear with full suspension compression.
It clears the sidewall to the top of the wheel well in the rear, but then the tire hits in the 10 O'clock and 2 O' clock positions by the time the sidewall is halfway past the top of the fender with 1 deg negative camber.
I could add more negative camber to clear the tire through full suspension travel, but I feel this would negate the effects of going to a wider tire for forward traction.
I have found a graph of the effects of negative camber on forward traction and it was really close to the same from 0 to 1 deg negative and then dropped off sharply after that. I am not sure for what tire construction it was for, but the trend is an obvious one- I am not running bias ply.
I am going to try to roll the lip under a bit where it hits the tire this weekend.
I had awesome results with a hammer on the front, I will see how I manage with a fender roller on the rear... Ooooh, I can practice on the NA
It clears the sidewall to the top of the wheel well in the rear, but then the tire hits in the 10 O'clock and 2 O' clock positions by the time the sidewall is halfway past the top of the fender with 1 deg negative camber.
I could add more negative camber to clear the tire through full suspension travel, but I feel this would negate the effects of going to a wider tire for forward traction.
I have found a graph of the effects of negative camber on forward traction and it was really close to the same from 0 to 1 deg negative and then dropped off sharply after that. I am not sure for what tire construction it was for, but the trend is an obvious one- I am not running bias ply.
I am going to try to roll the lip under a bit where it hits the tire this weekend.
I had awesome results with a hammer on the front, I will see how I manage with a fender roller on the rear... Ooooh, I can practice on the NA
12-05-08, 12:15 AM
#30
for any of you guys thinking of a 275 up front on a 17" wheel just remember that is a TALL TIRE wow like whoa!
the 285/30R18 is super short in comparison (if you can afford it pal, lol) and will fit nicely on a 18x9.5 wheel up front with the proper offset and a 20mm or panspeed type of fender.
255/40r17 can be pretty damn tall too, NyToy / soloracer had them up front on a 17x9 +15 with tein flex and mariah 30mm fenders and while driven hard there was a lot of rubbing to take care of with trimming here and there and the car couldnt be lowered too much either.
the 285/30R18 is super short in comparison (if you can afford it pal, lol) and will fit nicely on a 18x9.5 wheel up front with the proper offset and a 20mm or panspeed type of fender.
255/40r17 can be pretty damn tall too, NyToy / soloracer had them up front on a 17x9 +15 with tein flex and mariah 30mm fenders and while driven hard there was a lot of rubbing to take care of with trimming here and there and the car couldnt be lowered too much either.
275/40-17 Nto1 is .65" taller than stock TII tire, so you get .325" taller ride high and .325 less compression up front at the same suspension height OR .65" more ride height with same compression or .65" less compression at same ride height.
That does make a difference as even with my .2" shorter than stock height 245/45-16 RA 1 and 7k front springs I was bottoming the top (tread surface) of the tire against the flat part of the fender liner when racing.
Some 285/30-18 Toyo R888 sound nice for the street/track, but they are more expensive, the rims will be more expensive and weigh more and I will have less traction over rough surfaces from weight and sidewall stiffness (remember I am bottoming 245/45-16 on 7k springs, so there is some texture on the course).
12-07-08, 11:18 PM
#31
Well, I was wrong again- or maybe right all along :P I do clear in the rear!
When I tested the rear with 275/40-17 Nitto Nt01 on 17x9.5 +40 at full compression with ~1 deg negative camber- I really did try it at FULL compression (ie trailing arm hitting chassis and sway bar link hitting brake line).
Of course this is not supposed to happen...so I measured
rim to wheel well arch at full droop with shock on = 13cm
rim to wheel arch at full compression (trailing arm hits body, etc) = 1.5cm
shock stroke until bump stop = 5cm
bump stop length = 6.5cm
So unless I hit a bump big enough to compress the 6.5cm bumpstop down to 2cm I will clear the rear fender as it is fine until the top of the wheel arch is 5cm from the rim.
When I tested the rear with 275/40-17 Nitto Nt01 on 17x9.5 +40 at full compression with ~1 deg negative camber- I really did try it at FULL compression (ie trailing arm hitting chassis and sway bar link hitting brake line).
Of course this is not supposed to happen...so I measured
rim to wheel well arch at full droop with shock on = 13cm
rim to wheel arch at full compression (trailing arm hits body, etc) = 1.5cm
shock stroke until bump stop = 5cm
bump stop length = 6.5cm
So unless I hit a bump big enough to compress the 6.5cm bumpstop down to 2cm I will clear the rear fender as it is fine until the top of the wheel arch is 5cm from the rim.
07-23-09, 12:55 AM
#32
So I got BLUE TII running again so ScrapFC and I could drive the annual hillclimb my auto-x club puts on.
After an in garage tire/fender check we had to do a little surgery to the rear fenders by rolling the lip under a bit in places. We clearanced the fenders enough to get into the bumpstop ~1/2".
After a subsequent auto-x style suspension set up session we had to pull the front fenders very slightly and work on the rear a bit more.
So, this set up didn't *quite* work on the body the way it was with full suspension movement and tire deflection
Also, despite their being about 1" from muffler to tire we had to use metal u-clamps instead of exhaust hangers to keep the heavy RB Rev II rear section from contacting the tires in cornering= lots of grip here.
Finally, the 1/8" from tire to trailing arm is not enough to prevent the tire from rubbing the trailing arm in hard cornering. I have toe eliminator bushings, which leaves one rubber bushing in the tri axial hub carrier to deflect; could be that or just tire deflection.
So far it is just rubbing the tire on the edge of the tread cap and not sidewall so I am keeping an eye on it. O.o
Here are some pics of the car after the hillclimb, the fender work is so minor it is hard to spot in person even.
After an in garage tire/fender check we had to do a little surgery to the rear fenders by rolling the lip under a bit in places. We clearanced the fenders enough to get into the bumpstop ~1/2".
After a subsequent auto-x style suspension set up session we had to pull the front fenders very slightly and work on the rear a bit more.
So, this set up didn't *quite* work on the body the way it was with full suspension movement and tire deflection
Also, despite their being about 1" from muffler to tire we had to use metal u-clamps instead of exhaust hangers to keep the heavy RB Rev II rear section from contacting the tires in cornering= lots of grip here.
Finally, the 1/8" from tire to trailing arm is not enough to prevent the tire from rubbing the trailing arm in hard cornering. I have toe eliminator bushings, which leaves one rubber bushing in the tri axial hub carrier to deflect; could be that or just tire deflection.
So far it is just rubbing the tire on the edge of the tread cap and not sidewall so I am keeping an eye on it. O.o
Here are some pics of the car after the hillclimb, the fender work is so minor it is hard to spot in person even.
08-06-09, 09:21 AM
#35
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Thanks for sharing for the hillclimb, Blue TII! The new setup is sick!! I'm glad to see you finally got enough grip to do right by all that power. The funny thing is that with all that grip, the blue TII actually felt a bit underpowered up there. :P
Also, the hill was an absolute blast. I can't recommend it enough for anyone who can attend. Now if only I can remember how to drive, maybe we can grab that SM2 record from the hands of the evil 240Z!
Also, the hill was an absolute blast. I can't recommend it enough for anyone who can attend. Now if only I can remember how to drive, maybe we can grab that SM2 record from the hands of the evil 240Z!
08-06-09, 02:17 PM
#36
The 240 is using its powers for good not evil ~.^ (it is clean stock body 240zx that tears it up- a bit after my own heart.)
I will have to see about raising the boost up from 12psi and getting a race gas tune on dyno! That should help make the car faster.
Now about making me faster...
I will have to see about raising the boost up from 12psi and getting a race gas tune on dyno! That should help make the car faster.
Now about making me faster...
03-31-10, 03:52 PM
#39
So I got BLUE TII running again so ScrapFC and I could drive the annual hillclimb my auto-x club puts on.
After an in garage tire/fender check we had to do a little surgery to the rear fenders by rolling the lip under a bit in places. We clearanced the fenders enough to get into the bumpstop ~1/2".
After a subsequent auto-x style suspension set up session we had to pull the front fenders very slightly and work on the rear a bit more.
So, this set up didn't *quite* work on the body the way it was with full suspension movement and tire deflection
Also, despite their being about 1" from muffler to tire we had to use metal u-clamps instead of exhaust hangers to keep the heavy RB Rev II rear section from contacting the tires in cornering= lots of grip here.
Finally, the 1/8" from tire to trailing arm is not enough to prevent the tire from rubbing the trailing arm in hard cornering. I have toe eliminator bushings, which leaves one rubber bushing in the tri axial hub carrier to deflect; could be that or just tire deflection.
So far it is just rubbing the tire on the edge of the tread cap and not sidewall so I am keeping an eye on it. O.o
After an in garage tire/fender check we had to do a little surgery to the rear fenders by rolling the lip under a bit in places. We clearanced the fenders enough to get into the bumpstop ~1/2".
After a subsequent auto-x style suspension set up session we had to pull the front fenders very slightly and work on the rear a bit more.
So, this set up didn't *quite* work on the body the way it was with full suspension movement and tire deflection
Also, despite their being about 1" from muffler to tire we had to use metal u-clamps instead of exhaust hangers to keep the heavy RB Rev II rear section from contacting the tires in cornering= lots of grip here.
Finally, the 1/8" from tire to trailing arm is not enough to prevent the tire from rubbing the trailing arm in hard cornering. I have toe eliminator bushings, which leaves one rubber bushing in the tri axial hub carrier to deflect; could be that or just tire deflection.
So far it is just rubbing the tire on the edge of the tread cap and not sidewall so I am keeping an eye on it. O.o
I finally ran my new Hoosier A6s for the first time last weekend (245/40/17s up front and 275/40/17s in the back) and had the same rear clearance issues, but mine sounds much worse. It's rubbing both the exhaust heat shield and the control arms.
I have 17x10 +35s and it looks like I'm going to have to run at least a 5mm spacer.
it works fine when they're static, but not durring auto-x runs. I haven't installed my DTSS eliminators yet (it's on my to-do list...) so that might be a lot of my problem.
how are your 275s working out BlueTII?
PS - are you even running exhaust heat shields in the back?
04-06-10, 08:56 PM
#41
The set up was great, but never did eliminate the trailing arm contact on the side of the tread cap with the 275 in back. No problems with the 255 up front at all.
I actually swapped out some 255/40s on the back for 255 on all corners for an Enduro event that was on a large kart track with a banked turn off a 90mph straight because I was afraid of serious rub with the banking and more cornering forces.
It turned out I did not have to worry as it was a wet event.
I did get top time (it was drying out nicely by my run) and if I would have been in my class (SSM) would have set a new record, but had been put in OSPO as they were not supporting SSM class.
With the 255 all around it had some weird bumpsteer- I guess from the small "stetch" out back on the 9.5" and slight "muffin top" up front with the 8.5".
It was perfectly stable with the 255/275 set up which I will go back to.
I actually swapped out some 255/40s on the back for 255 on all corners for an Enduro event that was on a large kart track with a banked turn off a 90mph straight because I was afraid of serious rub with the banking and more cornering forces.
It turned out I did not have to worry as it was a wet event.
I did get top time (it was drying out nicely by my run) and if I would have been in my class (SSM) would have set a new record, but had been put in OSPO as they were not supporting SSM class.
With the 255 all around it had some weird bumpsteer- I guess from the small "stetch" out back on the 9.5" and slight "muffin top" up front with the 8.5".
It was perfectly stable with the 255/275 set up which I will go back to.
04-15-10, 03:26 PM
#43
I guess the 5mm spacer i'm about to try on the 275s isn't going to do very much lol.
are you running muffler heat shields BLUE TII? my 275s rub pretty bad on those too.
04-19-10, 10:36 PM
#44
Yes, I still have muffler heat shields.
I pushed the heatshields up against the Racing Beat RevII mufflers and mounted the mufflers with steel u-clamps instead of the rubber donuts.
The mufflers still push the heatshields into the tire on cornering some from movement in the Y-pipe area.
I pushed the heatshields up against the Racing Beat RevII mufflers and mounted the mufflers with steel u-clamps instead of the rubber donuts.
The mufflers still push the heatshields into the tire on cornering some from movement in the Y-pipe area.
