When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So after running 18x11 with 285 square for 2 seasons and struggling with being able to put down the power on corner exit. I decided it was time to jump up on rear tire size in the back.
Now the setup is 285 fronts and 315 rears. Rears were already rolled so we just had to do a small pull. On the back I'm at 1.8degs neg camber and 1/8 toe in. its the same specs I have been autocorssing with. going to bump that to just over 2degs rear before the next autocorss. I did do a test fit on the front and with some pulling on the front fenders I do believe I can get a 315 to fit. But not sure its worth it for autocorss as getting temp into a 315 on the front would be hard
I am running CCW Classics 18 x 11 square set-up with Hoosier A7 315s all around. I had the stock front fenders english rolled and I had to cut part of the bumper, front spoiler and fender to make room for the 315s when turning lock to lock. For the rears, I used a fender roller to flatten the fender lip. Also I used a body hammer with a dolly to massage the rear fenders to make room for the 315s.
Is the shock the limiting factor in the rear, or the trailing arm. I've got 7.5" backspace CCWs (18x10 +50), and they've got a bit of room left to the inside, but it appears the trailing arm would rub first, or the inside of the fender well.
Can’t go any wider unless you start pushing the wheel out work parts that are available now.
The spacing from rim to coilover and trailer arms is the issue.
A offset shock bushings will move the coilover in board to give you room. But you would now be effectively lowing your spring rate. So you would need to adjust spring rate
The trailing arms would need to be custom. A machined billet arm with an offset would work. But would need to find someone to make them(working on that now).
Originally Posted by ptrhahn
Is the shock the limiting factor in the rear, or the trailing arm. I've got 7.5" backspace CCWs (18x10 +50), and they've got a bit of room left to the inside, but it appears the trailing arm would rub first, or the inside of the fender well.
18x11 +45 is really close to the coilover and the stock trailing arms in the rear. Like, your camber and rear toe is limited close.
Front it is really close to coilover and front lower arm at full steering lock.
If you go aftermarket rear trailing arm and justify the front pivot to the inside of the mount with the heim spacers you gain some room to the trailing arm.
If you use an offset rear lower shock mount you gain some room to the shock.
Or an extreme example back in the day was Area51 FD that used rods instead of shocks to an inboard shock system mounted to the roll bar in the hatch.
But then if you want to go further in you have lumps in the top front of the wheelwells sheetmetal that limit tire bump compression - those can be hammered flat if you arent in a your FD is now a $100,000 car state of mind and you want to total it out in the name of mods.
In front the coilover is really close and the lower suspension arm at full steering lock. Offset lower shock mont will again give you room to the inside, but you would need steering lock limiters or grinding the lower arm to avoid rub at full steering lock if you go in more.
18x12 +40 and 335/40-18 front and rear could be done with the above mods and a roll with pull.
But its much easier to do 335/30-18 front and rear with mild +20mm wide body fenders (like Feed kit) and 18x12 +30.
04-13-22, 01:21 PM
