*** low offset for FD and still fit***??
*** low offset for FD and still fit***??
i bought aset of wheels which i thought would fit the fd because hey came off and fd and i got a good price not knowing the offset. when i recieved them i took measurments and i found out that the offsets were really low___ ff 17x9 + 25 and rr 17x10.5 +31.75... next thing i did was try them on and they fit REALLY WELL.....i tried to bounce suspensiuon and it didnt hit ...when i turned the whheel it came close to inner fender.. i would most likely go w a 40 profile rather than 45 he had on there...and i would mostlikely roll fenders ....but what should i do should i trash em ....or can i work w these offsets...peopl on the forum have gone lower but can anyone help?
we test fitted some 17x9 +17 with 225/45 tires on them on omochis car
iunno if the thread is still on here though it got heated
ur +25 will sink the wheel in enough to make it just about flush but id imagine you'd have wider tires than 225's, PLUS go to a 40 series anyways, they look much better and perform that much better as well
you should be able to fit a 235 or 245 wihtout any problems
the fender needs to be rolled though for sure
otherwise ur tire catches
using this: http://marksink.com/tire_wheel_offset/offset.html
it shows ur 10.5 will only stick out 5mm more than what we had his at, and that would be perfectly in line with the body, however camber and tire choice is where u have to determine ur pull, cause it needs to be rolled for sure
iunno if the thread is still on here though it got heated
ur +25 will sink the wheel in enough to make it just about flush but id imagine you'd have wider tires than 225's, PLUS go to a 40 series anyways, they look much better and perform that much better as well
you should be able to fit a 235 or 245 wihtout any problems
the fender needs to be rolled though for sure
otherwise ur tire catches
using this: http://marksink.com/tire_wheel_offset/offset.html
it shows ur 10.5 will only stick out 5mm more than what we had his at, and that would be perfectly in line with the body, however camber and tire choice is where u have to determine ur pull, cause it needs to be rolled for sure
SMG944>>>>the rear already came with 275 could i go wider or will it catch....i know i have to roll THE fenders but will i need flares? ANOTHER friend said i might have to pull the fender whats the diff?
Last edited by njstreetrx7; Jan 1, 2007 at 02:19 AM. Reason: SPELL
BATTLE AXE>>>so will i have problems with eating my fenders at all? BTW AS U CAN SEE IN MY SIG MY CAR IS LOWERED DOES THAT MAKE A DIFF?
ANYBODY ELSE
ANYBODY ELSE
Last edited by njstreetrx7; Jan 1, 2007 at 02:24 AM. Reason: .
I think as long as you have coil-overs, a good fender roll, and and tire that doesn't have a tall sidewall it might fit. Check out this thread . . . .
https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/new-wheels-work-vskfs-578543/ (first post for wheel sizes)
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...3&page=7&pp=15 (post 101 for pics of wheels mounted)
https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/new-wheels-work-vskfs-578543/ (first post for wheel sizes)
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...3&page=7&pp=15 (post 101 for pics of wheels mounted)
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Originally Posted by njstreetrx7
BATTLE AXE>>>so will i have problems with eating my fenders at all? BTW AS U CAN SEE IN MY SIG MY CAR IS LOWERED DOES THAT MAKE A DIFF?
ANYBODY ELSE
ANYBODY ELSE
you will have troubles eating ur fenders like i said
thats why u have to roll ur fenders
PULLING is hammering it out to fit, or u can get flares if u like
having a lowered car does make a difference
this is lowering springs and adj shocks
this is the 17x9 +17 with 225/45
no roll and no pull

this is a pull on my car:

thanks battle i was thinking of flaring cause i sawit on a rex and it gives an aggresive stance....after pulling the fender body work is required cause paint might crack and it might no be even?
another option i havre is because they are 3 piece wheels i seperated them and put the rear facing of the wheel to front's back and front lip....and i gained a 44 offset which is ideal.....but it lowered my rear offset to 20 . WHICH IS THE BETTER OPTION???????????..THANKS GUYS FOR HELPING ME OUT!
What method did you use to measure the offset? It is easy to screw up the measurement/calculation, so my first guess is that the offset numbers you have are incorrect.
One way to do it correctly:
* measure the real width of the wheel (outer rim edge to inner rim edge), which will be about 1+/-0.5" larger than the nominal (bead) width
* carefully measure the backspacing, which is the distance between the wheel pad that mates with the hub, and the plane defined by the inner edge of the rim
* calculate: offset = backspacing - (real_width / 2)
-Max
One way to do it correctly:
* measure the real width of the wheel (outer rim edge to inner rim edge), which will be about 1+/-0.5" larger than the nominal (bead) width
* carefully measure the backspacing, which is the distance between the wheel pad that mates with the hub, and the plane defined by the inner edge of the rim
* calculate: offset = backspacing - (real_width / 2)
-Max
ok i measured my backspacing the same way
so idealy if i measured a 9 and 10.5 its really a 8.5 and 10.....i dont see how measuring it ur way would throw it off by .5... if u r right this most likely would raise my offset
so idealy if i measured a 9 and 10.5 its really a 8.5 and 10.....i dont see how measuring it ur way would throw it off by .5... if u r right this most likely would raise my offset
I did a quick little drawing to help clarify what the measurements mean and how to measure and calculate offset.

Also, 1+/-0.5" means "about an inch, but might be as small as 0.5 inch or as large as 1.5 inches". In my experience, wheels are usually a little more than an inch larger in width than the specs (since the specs refer to the tire bead width, and not the overall rim width). If you measure 10.5" from rim edge to rim edge, that is very likely a 9.5" wide wheel.
-Max

Also, 1+/-0.5" means "about an inch, but might be as small as 0.5 inch or as large as 1.5 inches". In my experience, wheels are usually a little more than an inch larger in width than the specs (since the specs refer to the tire bead width, and not the overall rim width). If you measure 10.5" from rim edge to rim edge, that is very likely a 9.5" wide wheel.
-Max
Originally Posted by njstreetrx7
So Ur Saying That That I Shouldnt Measurefrom Outside Of The Lip....i Went To Alot Of Sites And They All Say From Outter Lip To Outer Lip
-Max
Originally Posted by njstreetrx7
ok i measured my backspacing the same way
so idealy if i measured a 9 and 10.5 its really a 8.5 and 10.....i dont see how measuring it ur way would throw it off by .5... if u r right this most likely would raise my offset
so idealy if i measured a 9 and 10.5 its really a 8.5 and 10.....i dont see how measuring it ur way would throw it off by .5... if u r right this most likely would raise my offset
(However, nominal width is relevant once you know the offset for predicting whether the wheel will fit a car, since wheel widths are normally given by nominal width, rather than the actual width.)
If you measured 9" and 10.5" actual widths, I would bet that those are 8" and 9.5" wheels.
-Max
MAXCOOPER u were sooooo right thanks, MY WIDTH WAS WRONG u haveto measure from inside lip rather than outside ff =8 inch wheel rr=9.5
so for FF- BS(5.5in) - CL(4in)= 1.5in x 25.4= 38.1mm OFFSETB
and for RR- BS(6.5in) - CL(4.75in)= 1.75 x 25.4= 44.45mm offset
thanks for everyones help, it looks like im really good in the rr just the front i have to worry bout
so for FF- BS(5.5in) - CL(4in)= 1.5in x 25.4= 38.1mm OFFSETB
and for RR- BS(6.5in) - CL(4.75in)= 1.75 x 25.4= 44.45mm offset
thanks for everyones help, it looks like im really good in the rr just the front i have to worry bout
I'm not sure you have the offsets right yet. Those offsets actually sound good, but it looks like you used the bead width rather than the actual width in the calculations. So I can't tell if you got it right this time or not.
Clear your mind.
Look at the picture again:

Offset is the distance between the wheel pad and the (imaginary) wheel centerline.
Determine the actual wheel width. Sounds like 9" and 10.5".
Measure the backspacing very carefully. Like this, except don't use a round pole
:

Go forth and calculate... Offset = Backspacing - (actual width / 2)
-Max
Clear your mind.
Look at the picture again:

Offset is the distance between the wheel pad and the (imaginary) wheel centerline.
Determine the actual wheel width. Sounds like 9" and 10.5".
Measure the backspacing very carefully. Like this, except don't use a round pole
:
Go forth and calculate... Offset = Backspacing - (actual width / 2)
-Max
I did measure w the bead width the second time. I thought bead width equals actual rim width.. and ur measuring backspacing alil diff than most sites say... on wheels sites they say measure from inner bead down to hub on wheel. u measuree from outter lip to hub.....which one is it ....thanks again we gotta get it right this is also good info for club members!
Start here: offset is the distance between the wheel pad (that mates with the hub) and the imaginary centerline of the wheel. Once you understand this, you can "check your work" to make sure the measurements and calculations you have done make sense. Without this knowledge, how can you ever be sure that you got it right?
Look at my diagram sketch again. It shows the easiest way to measure a wheel and calculate the offset, in as clear a form as I can communicate it. Look closely. Focus. You only need to measure the real/actual width and the backspacing to calculate the offset. You do not need to measure the bead/nominal width.
Measure carefully. If you are off by a few mm on both measurements, your resulting calculation could be way off (due to compounded errors).
Backspacing is measured just like my picture (except use a stiff, straight, and flat/square edge instead of a round broom-handle, to minimize the error
). Any site that says/shows otherwise is wrong. I suspect you have simply misinterpreted their diagrams/explanations.
All of these pages are consistent with my diagram and advice (though most fail to give useful advice on how to measure a wheel and calc offset, and some fail to distinguish between actual and bead width):
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/...jsp?techid=95#
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/...jsp?techid=101
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...297449208!NONE
http://www.yokohamatire.com/utcustom.asp
http://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html
-Max
Look at my diagram sketch again. It shows the easiest way to measure a wheel and calculate the offset, in as clear a form as I can communicate it. Look closely. Focus. You only need to measure the real/actual width and the backspacing to calculate the offset. You do not need to measure the bead/nominal width.
Measure carefully. If you are off by a few mm on both measurements, your resulting calculation could be way off (due to compounded errors).
Backspacing is measured just like my picture (except use a stiff, straight, and flat/square edge instead of a round broom-handle, to minimize the error
). Any site that says/shows otherwise is wrong. I suspect you have simply misinterpreted their diagrams/explanations.All of these pages are consistent with my diagram and advice (though most fail to give useful advice on how to measure a wheel and calc offset, and some fail to distinguish between actual and bead width):
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/...jsp?techid=95#
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/...jsp?techid=101
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...297449208!NONE
http://www.yokohamatire.com/utcustom.asp
http://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html
-Max
Last edited by maxcooper; Jan 4, 2007 at 05:34 AM.


