safc2 power and tuning - RX7Club.com



safc2 power and tuning

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Old 05-13-08, 06:18 PM
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Wink safc2 power and tuning

so i finally ended up taking the car to the dyno today.
88 10th ann
-knightsports turbo upgrade
-rb full exhaust
-fcd
-blitz bov
-walbro 255 fuel pump
-550 primaries, 1000cc secondaries
-custom tid
-turbosmart boost conrtoller
-all emmisions removed
apexi safc2
- running at about 15-16 psi
anyways i made 307whp and 280wtq.
on my first run i was at about 13.5-1 all across the board. so i ended up setting my ne-points all throughout the rpm range from 4 too 6000. in the end i ended up taking about 6-7% fuel away and having my a/r at about 11.5-1. so i am pretty happy with the safc and it is very easy to use.

Last edited by t2ae; 05-13-08 at 06:19 PM. Reason: forgot something
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Old 05-23-08, 01:41 PM
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nice man hope to see this thing some time . how much was the NS turbo upgrade?
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Old 06-28-08, 12:50 PM
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on my first run i was at about 13.5-1 all across the board. so i ended up setting my ne-points all throughout the rpm range from 4 too 6000. in the end i ended up taking about 6-7% fuel away and having my a/r at about 11.5-1. so i am pretty happy with the safc and it is very easy to use.
Anyones else get confused here?

If you take fuel away, it shoudl get leaner not richer...
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Old 06-30-08, 07:34 AM
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yeah that didnt make much sense to me either lol
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Old 07-14-08, 07:21 PM
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true
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Old 07-14-08, 08:02 PM
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You said FCD in your list of mods. It may be time for you to start looking into standalones. You are starting to cross the border of stock pressure sensor and afm.
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Old 07-20-08, 02:56 PM
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is that normal?
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You said FCD in your list of mods. It may be time for you to start looking into standalones. You are starting to cross the border of stock pressure sensor and afm.
how much can stock sensors handle... iv seen some wicked 360 hp fc's in japan with chipped ecu's and stock sensors and what not.... share this knowledge im curious
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Old 07-21-08, 12:18 AM
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is that normal?
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???
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Old 07-21-08, 12:46 AM
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I don't think guys using S-AFC's understand that when they pull AFM % out of an AFC they also advance timing, 16 psi on pump gas + more timing sounds like you just dialed a bomb , just because it made it out of the dyno and it runs good doesnt it mean it will stay together, a non-loading dyno cannot simulate the driving conditions you will find on the road . Lest's not raise the prices of rotor housings by creating more demand and get ourselfs proper engine managements
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Old 07-21-08, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ( ^ ) <-_-> ( ^ ) View Post
how much can stock sensors handle... iv seen some wicked 360 hp fc's in japan with chipped ecu's and stock sensors and what not.... share this knowledge im curious
I believe these are per RETED

AFM - 300hp
MAP - 15psi

The chipped ECU you are talking about could be an RTek esque ecu where it is much more than chipped but almost fully tuneable. They allow you to pull timing back under load. The stock ecu is actually quite advanced up at redline, and as aforementioned, a bomb waiting to happen.
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Old 07-21-08, 11:55 AM
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is that normal?
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ok so should we all with safc dial our cas's and timing dead on 0 or retard it all the way then set up a map on the safc?

BTW gas now has less then 10% ethonal so shouldn't we really really make our cars run richer????
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Old 07-21-08, 03:42 PM
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how much can stock sensors handle... iv seen some wicked 360 hp fc's in japan with chipped ecu's and stock sensors and what not.... share this knowledge im curious
The stock boost sensor only goes up to 15psi.
So, if you go past 15psi, the boost sensor will not know it, and the stock ECU will not know it either.

If those Japan FC's are really making "360", they are not using stock fuel injectors and / or are *most likely* running some kinda AIC - additional injector controller.
AIC's are very popular in Japan, and it's a hack job for fuel delivery.

The stock AFM should've pegged max a long time ago at 360.

I usually would put the upper limit at around 300 with the "stock ECU".
It is not recommended to shoot for high than that using the "stock ECU".


-Ted
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Old 07-22-08, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed View Post
The stock boost sensor only goes up to 15psi.
So, if you go past 15psi, the boost sensor will not know it, and the stock ECU will not know it either.

If those Japan FC's are really making "360", they are not using stock fuel injectors and / or are *most likely* running some kinda AIC - additional injector controller.
AIC's are very popular in Japan, and it's a hack job for fuel delivery.

The stock AFM should've pegged max a long time ago at 360.

I usually would put the upper limit at around 300 with the "stock ECU".
It is not recommended to shoot for high than that using the "stock ECU".


-Ted
Hahah I was dead on. I actually read and remember what Ted writes months ago XD.
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Old 07-22-08, 10:54 PM
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In my personal opinion and personal experience I think the AIC idea is not bad at all . See, the reason why they do this is so they don't have to pull out AFM % by having bigger injectors, with AIC your timing can stay the same and all you do is have the AIC take care of the extra fuel need it. I personally have done this a few times in the past with an E-manage ( that cost the same as the S-AFC and has AIC capabilities built in)
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Old 10-08-08, 03:07 PM
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yeah sorry i gotta it backwards talking about the fuel with the safc added fuel. but yea i cant tell a difference at all adding or taking fuel away from the safc. so since then i have just set everything to zero since i dont have a wideband. but im about to sell the safc and try out the rtek 2.1 and see how i can do on tuning with the palm pilot since u can have more points of correction and play with timing and alot more basically. but yeah this week im putting a front mount on and hopefully sending the ecu to get chipped. after that im gonna get some sticky tires and go to the strip. im ready to break into the 7'S in the 8th. last pass was 8.3 at 90mph still spinning bad on used tires and no tune or fmic. keep posted

Last edited by t2ae; 10-08-08 at 03:09 PM. Reason: wrong
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Old 10-09-08, 02:53 AM
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Beginner tuner without a wideband is a recipe for disaster , keep in mind that your budget cutting on proper engine management can be greatly offset by hurting one single engine, with the money you'll spend rebuilding another engine you could of have the top of the line ECU and a wideband . The RTEK has enough flexibility for a beginner tuner to hit the wrong key and blow the motor, but what most people don't realize is that one of the main reason to go stand alone is to change that un-reliable 20 year old engine harness, all it takes is for one of the sensor/injector clip for that given revolution not to pass signal and you'll have $2000 going out the tailpipe. Also if you're a 1/8 racer the first 60 foot is where is all at, If you donít have anti-lag/2step you wont be able to achieve full torque out of the hole (none of this features are available with the RTEK)and how about flat **** between gears for full boost between gear shift? I know that Rtek price seems enticing but keep in mind the above and also that you're stuck with an airflow meter and 20 year old sensors.
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Old 10-14-08, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Siverturbo View Post
Beginner tuner without a wideband is a recipe for disaster , keep in mind that your budget cutting on proper engine management can be greatly offset by hurting one single engine, with the money you'll spend rebuilding another engine you could of have the top of the line ECU and a wideband . The RTEK has enough flexibility for a beginner tuner to hit the wrong key and blow the motor, but what most people don't realize is that one of the main reason to go stand alone is to change that un-reliable 20 year old engine harness, all it takes is for one of the sensor/injector clip for that given revolution not to pass signal and you'll have $2000 going out the tailpipe. Also if you're a 1/8 racer the first 60 foot is where is all at, If you donít have anti-lag/2step you wont be able to achieve full torque out of the hole (none of this features are available with the RTEK)and how about flat **** between gears for full boost between gear shift? I know that Rtek price seems enticing but keep in mind the above and also that you're stuck with an airflow meter and 20 year old sensors.
your right on alot of points you make........but the harness hasnt gaveout in 3yrs of giving the car hell. driving it hard every week doing what i built it to do. so far reliable....dont get me wrong if i had the money to spend on a standalone i would def get one. but for now im gonna go with the rtek . i've read nothing but great reviews about it. for my setup it seems to be plenty to tune with. ill keep this thread updated with what happens over the next month.
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Old 02-06-09, 10:43 PM
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its funny i was showin this thread to my buddy before i got my car dynoed saying how i have the same set up other than mines S5 and i made 313whpp 289ft-lbs ....very close lol
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Old 03-01-09, 03:05 AM
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Question

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Originally Posted by RETed View Post
The stock boost sensor only goes up to 15psi.
So, if you go past 15psi, the boost sensor will not know it, and the stock ECU will not know it either.

If those Japan FC's are really making "360", they are not using stock fuel injectors and / or are *most likely* running some kinda AIC - additional injector controller.
AIC's are very popular in Japan, and it's a hack job for fuel delivery.

The stock AFM should've pegged max a long time ago at 360.

I usually would put the upper limit at around 300 with the "stock ECU".
It is not recommended to shoot for high than that using the "stock ECU".


-Ted
Ahh yes those AIC controllers are fantastic. I wish HKS was still making them.
I actually just purchased a new old stock AIC controller from EBay a couple months ago just keep for another project one day.

We have one tuner in my town 'Chee from Dynamic Automotive' that ran his stock FC ecu with AIC and plumbed the AFM with boost after the intercooler. This was the simplest setups i had witnessed. He was able to run his stock block with 62-1 at 1.6bar boost successfully. Iím guessing the flow potential of the AFM increases if its run under boost instead of vacuum.
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Old 05-26-09, 08:07 PM
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yea so basically its been awhile since i've been on here but nothing has really changed on my setup besides the fmic....lol. i guess its still a time bomb but still have been driving it everyday and still running great with no tune. but hopefully one day ill actually stop driving it and send the ecu off to get chipped. since then i've been just kinda blowing my money. just recently installed two buddy club racing seats, replaced some seals and gasket, and just waiting for the cold weather to come back...lol whenever i get it tuned i will post back up the difference. btw the fmic was a great investment, could def tell a huge difference in power and a couple more psi.other than that im just either gonna keep waiting to get it tuned or blow it one. either way it still runs great beside the flooding....lol
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Old 06-24-10, 01:28 PM
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man its been awhile since i've had time to post on here....anyways car is still running fine with still NO TUNE!? maybe im just a handful of the lucky ones who can get away with this but thats the problem you run into when you have a low budget. anyways just wanted to say that
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Old 10-26-11, 07:17 PM
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wow, bringing this thread back. everything is still the same but now with a rebuilt motor,streetport and a bnr stage 4 turbo. what air fuel ratios would you guys recommend for this setup? i am planning on getting this this finally tuned in a couple of weeks.
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Old 10-26-11, 07:37 PM
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Old 10-26-11, 07:45 PM
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11.5 for wot? what about for cruising and at idle?
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Old 10-26-11, 08:44 PM
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11.5 for wot? what about for cruising and at idle?
idle AFR in the 12's most likely, possibly low 13's. During cruising the O2 sensor takes over and the AFR will fluctuate between 14 and 15
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