First off this is a 13BT swap into a 1990 GTU chassis, full driveline and T2 swap, interior is great, exterior needs paint, side markers, and front lights (not headlights), it is all N370.

Sooo, I was cleaning my sparkplugs and injecting oil to deflood, and..... apparently gas/oil eat a syringe, and whel basically an inch long by probably spark-plug hole diameter, whel it fell in the engine, rear rotor.

So after punching myself in the face several times, and trying every trick to get it out (including shop vac, and much careful hand-turning), I have determined that it must be disassembled to get it out, as I refuse to just turn it over with the starter and cause much more damage.

However, I have a few options to go with, unless someone has better ideas.

My fuel injection system has BEEN screwed up, I've replaced just about EVERYTHING, most all sensors, and tuned it up several times, the thing just doesn't want to run cold, and randomly dies (linked to CAS).

NOW, I was wondering, I'm not dismissing the thought of a carburetor, infact, I have a wrecked 85' transam with a good beefed 305 and 700r4 in it, with a Holley 4160 on it.

(fade to part 2)

Option 1:

I'm used to carburation and would like to give that option a shot, I've seen it done on a TII (Pedro), and while I don't have ANY of the parts to do a carburetor on a 13bt (except for the ... carburetor), I was wondering if it would be (amazingly) possible that anyone in Texas has all of the parts to convert it, this is just option 1.

Option 2:

I know where I can get V8 swap mounts, and stuff from, but not the driveshaft or anything, and in addition, this would place me back into an automatic which I do not like. It opens up a possibility to just swap the entire working 305 from my trans am in, or in my more favored idea, a Chevy 4.3l Vortec, to keep weight down and still retain plenty of torque and room.

I'm kind of torn on the ideas.

But first things first is to get the debris out of this engine, and the only way I can think of is to pull it out, and then I might as well do inspection work on it as well.

 

Remove the exhaust, Get it out of the exhaust, should be very very simple to get it out you can see the entire rotor housing and the best part is the apex seal will sweep it to the exhaust hole for you.


Your welcome

 

Whel heres the problem, it binds against the housings when i turn it too far, so it just locks it up, and I'm afraid to turn it any harder...

 

Jiggle it back and forth?

 

did it about 30 times, with and without the shopvac.

 

Where is the rotor at inside the housing, is the apex seal towards the sparkplug hole or is it pointing stright to the bottom.

The only reason you should have to not be able to move the rotor would be where the compression is happening in other words the rotor face is closest to the housing wall.

Can you turn the motor backwards andove the object to near the intak ports

 

Plan Z:

Drink lots of beer.

Remove the exhaust.

Put lots of oil or water (or beer) in that face through the spark plug hole and turn the engine. Hopefully the plastic debris will float somewhat and not bind at the lower edge of the rotor.

Turn the engine until you can fish the crap out the exhaust port.

 

You can do it, don't give up!

 

Agree to do this along with:

Buying a flexible magnetic pick tool.
http://www.magnetsource.com/Solution...ckuptools.html

Or a flexible 4 claw pick up tool.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

There is no reason to pull the engine out for this.
It will be a bitch, but not impossible.
Spend some money, have patience and invest some time to take the needle out.
Report back with your final decision.

 

Its on the compression/ignition side of the housing, and even filling it full with oil, still refuses to turn.

 

Check that your car is in neutral and not in gear, just in case.
I know I'm stating the obvious, but sometimes we miss the obvious.
You can't damage anything by turning the engine back, if you went forward with it to beging with.
Be a man and crank it back manually, grow some cojones boy and don't let this little bitch of a needle beat you.
LOLOLOL

 

K let me put it in perspective, I can turn it about a 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn back and fourth, car isn't in gear. I can hear the apex seal pass the spark-plug hole with a loud whsshhhh sound. But if I go much further it locks and cannot turn it anymore, I can wind it back the other direction, about the same distance, hear the apex seal, and then lock again.

 

OK, I re-read your post.
You said, the "gas/oil eat a syringe".
What did you have "in" the syringe, gas, oil or a mix???
If it was some gas mixture, then pure gas should melt/dissolve the plastic of the syringe.
If the syringe had the needle on (I don't see why ) and it went in, I think your SOL.
The needle could be lodge between the side seal of the rotor and the iron housing or pinched between the apex seal area and the face of the housing.
Start getting ready to pull the engine out.

 

K, out of curiosity, how much would this be potentially worth if sold?

1990 RX7 GTU N/A (T2 Swap) 156k chassis, 22k engine
IF I fix the problem and motor is inspection/parts needed replaced:

Engine & Drive-train:
-S4 keg
-Large Streetport
-S5 Intake/exhaust manifold
-S5 Turbo
-New TPS
-New Water Thermo Temp sensor (to ECU)
-New Alternator
-New Slave Cylinder (clutch)
-New Master Cylinder (clutch)
-Transmission replaced with lower-mileage, but needs shifter bushings
-Taurus E-fan
-9mm spark-plug wires
-Factory NGK plugs all 9-heat rating all the way around
-AC/PS delete
-New(er) TMIC
-TurboXS Blue BOV
-Straight through exhaust, 2.5", no cats, no presilencer, two Magnaflow canisters
-Emissions delete
-Exedy pressure plate/clutch 4 puck sprung
-Walbro 255 on a rewired fuel system
-Entire T2 driveline (engine, transmission, rear-end, propeller-shaft, etc...
-All N370, ECU is FCD chipped

Interior:
-Glowshift tinted gauge set (Oil PSI, Vacuum/Boost, AFR)
-Battery relocated with new terminals and welding cable to starter
-Interior close-to mint
-Factory Auto-Adjusting suspension WORKS and works good
-Dash kit and aftermarket Pioneer radio/cd
-6 speakers retained - 2 6.5" door, 2 8" shock towers (amplified), 2 6.5" center (2 door, need replaced)
-Turbo II seats (no rips, clean)
-Interior almost mint (missing console cover, under dash covers, door triangles, thats it?)
-White gauge backing with blue gauge lighting
-Shock-tower bar in the rear, 4-point, 1 per tower, 2 on floor-pan

Exterior:
-Fairly undented/flawless, a little bondo work done and covered, needs front lights (headlights work), and sidemarkers, brake lights have chips on the bottom, but can easily be filled and painted without notice.
-A little primer over-spray on windows, easily comes off
-Hatch Tinted blueish in color
-91 Convertible BBS mesh rims (6.5"), no centercaps (don't ask)

Maintenance:
-Oil change done every 2-4k miles (on 200 miles right now)
-Transmission fluid just changed
-Coolant changed once a year
-Differential checked once / 6 months
-Spark-plugs changed every 3-4k miles or cleaned once a month
-Propeller-Shaft recently inspected, U-joints proved still perfect

Bad:
-Wipers are finicky at best, delay doesn't work, washer bucket deleted
-CAS is flaky and needs replaced (will replace if saled)
-Cold-start idle doesn't work and needs to gas to be held until warmed up
-Runs a little rich due to lack of piggyback/standalone and Walbro does not help
-Car is setup all for dual belt except for alternator pulley
-Needs tires & alignment
-With the 'Room' fuse in, it immediately pops, unsure of why, but I'm sure the power mirrors would work (also on this fuse) if it wouldn't blow.
-Sunroof is godawful slow
-Needs a paintjob, current paint: rattle-can to prevent rust
-Passenger door latch bushing needs changed in the door
-Bin lighting doesn't work and needs liner

Extras:
-Factory T2 Pressure Plate
-Factory T2 Flywheel
-N/A to T2 Conversion Propeller-Shaft
-TMIC
-LIM, UIM, Properly modified throttle body (Coolant lines, Thermowax, second set of throttle plates, all removed)
-Factory Radio, still working, CD player on it still works, Door woofer amplifier still works, have it all
-Shock tower Adapter from 8" to 6.5" for speakers

Self-View

Ran and drove excellently when it ran... which I am fixing. I put a radio in it, amplifier, and some speakers (tight budget) and they put out sound at best, probably no better than the factory but still sound (worked at an audio shop for years). The cold-start system has been eliminated, and so has the assistance system (3k rpm cold start), so when you start the car, it requires your foot until it gets warm. I have run no more than 9 psi through it, the turbo does need rebuilt but it is not 'dangerous' yet, or even near. The seals are good, it does not unusually smoke, built full compression last checked in December.
It did have an unusual random stall problem, but I have traced it to the CAS, which will be replaced when bought.

I have access to buy a factory turbo with a HKS exhaust manifold and an external Turbonetics waste-gate I would have incorporated to work with the factory turbo if next owner wishes to pay a little more.

Getting rid of this wouldn't even cross my mind if my dad was not giving me his corvette.

So there you have it, All I'm looking for is a price book evaluation, I don't expect it to be too high, if you need more detail, just ask.