rxrotary2_7

Any tips?
i know i can figure it out, but after today i feel like asking and stop "figuring"
i know there are many of you out there on both sides of the fence. those who payed someone else, and those who did it on there own. maybe some of the people who opted to pay could even contribute.

these are my hurtles so far...

1. for the manifold...where did you get bolts? as the ones used from the stock turbos obviously will not work.

2. for your 1600 injectors...what did you do for an O-ring?
(bacon and i discussed this and he says just use a stock primary rail's seal. i dont have a part number listed for it in my microfiche and do not have an 'extra' set)

3. oil returns from turbo...what one did you use?


thanks in advance. and maybe this could help some others who are interested in a diy project.

setzep

I'm in the process of making my own "kit" and I think it's the way to go if you have the tools or know-how to do so. I just got my turbo the other week and now I'm in the process of making a manifold. I have weld els on there way from McMaster-Carr. I got a few 90's and 45's to work with. I chose 1.5 " sch 10 pipe butt weld pipe for the main tubes and 1.25 for the WG tubes. The 1.5" pipe is actually 1.68 ID and 1.9 OD which is perfect for my ports (smalish cosmo ports) and I used the 1.25 just because it was the next size smaller. I am going to go down to the local steel yard and get a 3/8 or 1/2" plate thats 15"x6", that will be enough to make the main flange and the turbo flange. I'll also pick up a couple feet of the straight schedule 10 1.5 and 1.25 304l pipe.
For the oil return I wish I would have drilled and tapped a hole in the front cover but at the time I put the front cover on I was thinking I was just going to use the rear drain ( I have a 13b-re that had a rear drain for the rear turbo). I'm not using a OMP and I happened to take the shaft out before I put it all together so what I think I'm going to do is take that block off plate off that I made and make a new thicker plate and port it to allow a fitting to be threaded in there for the turbo drain.

-Cam

Rotary93

If you need some directions on the Single turbo upgrade try www.xs-engineering.com

They have the directions on their site for the T04S Kit. It should be the same as any other Single turbo kit....

I installed my XS T04S kit and it was pretty simple...If you have any questions PM me...

rxrotary2_7

Cam,
you may want to check out racingbeat. they have a flange already made for a cheap price. i believe it is like $25.
also for the turbo flange...check out turbonetics

rxrotary2_7

thanks. i have not been able to open that site for some reason, but i have a feeling that none of the info i was looking for is going to be on there. it is not that i dont know "how", but i was jus having questions as to what was used.
please read my first post. actualy #1 and #2 are the only things i was realy questioning.

thanks for the link though, could be a good refrence for someone else

setzep

They have 304L SS ones? It's not reallly a big deal because my buddy said he'd machine out a set for me. Damn guy has a CNC mill in his bacement! I'm just wondering what thickness I should get.

twint78

rx i used the stock bolts of the manifold to use with my t78 kit.i installed everything myself.1600's come with a rubber o-ring already.mine did.for oil line.i used a steel braided line,welded some male connection to the nipples greddy sent me and then was able to screw my oil line on instead of clamping it down.make sense?

rxrotary2_7

twin78
after looking at my stock bolts, i guess they will work.
my 1600's did come with an O-ring, but does not seal properly.
and about the oil lines, i will make them work, but was wondering about what to do with the "other' return...
thanks for your input.

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

kieth ill go to mazduh and get u the pn#'s b/c i cant find that reciept outa the hundreds i have...as fas as "the other return" fab a block off plate..i think the thread size is somehting like m8 1.5 so u can go to pep boys and buy shorted bolts b/c i know the oil return bolts are a tad long stock...hell if i get creative wensday ill make u one i got the 6062 almnium in my garrage....dont worry ill hook u up

twint78

u must buy block off plates.the block off plates has a second oil return line to block off the hole on the rear part of the engine.u can use the original bolts.plus u need the plates to block everything else off for a single.anymore questions just ask i went through the whole hassle of this process.but once u do it one time u never forget.

where did u buy ur injectors?u can buy the rail from k2rd or RMS.im not sure but the secondaries should have o-rings on them.it has been awhile.plus when u pull ur secondaries,there is little rubber/plastic pieces in the hole u need to pull out with pliers or tweezers.this way u can fit ur secondaries in there.u will also need a pair of GM 3.8 injector harness connectors from pepboys.like 12 dollars a set.worth it though,cuz u need them.and u must keep the fuel thermosensor that is in the stock rail.just unscrew it and let it hang under the manifold.ur computer needs it to run the engine(if u use a powerfc, not sure about other ecu's)i hope this helps.

rxrotary2_7

thanks Len, call me latter.

Twin78
i have already made all my BOPs...they are all inplace.
i got injectors from a place in Ma. i am aware of taking out the 'inserts' in the LIM and the rubber piece on top, after i did that, that is where the original question arrose. there was no proper sealing.
why do you say that "you are not sure the secondaries sould have O rings"? no offence, but that does not sound right AT ALL. unless MY 1600's are different than anyone else, which i doubt.
as far as fuel rail...i have a "custom" one. a copy of the specs of a K2rd. it is made a little nicer than theirs. ask bacon
as far as fuel thermosensor goes, i am not using it. i do not believe it is required to run a motor. I am not using the PFC, i am running a haltech e6k.

twint78

halteck is not my territory.i use a power fc.i do not use the fuel thermosensor,but i let it hang.when i spoke to the mechanic after i had sent my power fc to xs to get it tuned the car would not run.he told me make sure the thermosensor is connected.i snapped it in and now it runs.the ecu has to read something even if it is 0.in order for the power fc to run the car.but halteck like i said i have no earthly clue about.

i was just letting u know about the plastic pieces in the manifold just in case u didnt know.no prob.

what i was ayin about the o-rings on the stock secondaries was that im pretty sure they came with the orings but not sure,cuz so long ago.bad memory plus i read ur statement wrong.whoops.

did u lube ur o-ring b4 u placed the injectors in?this is not an insult to ur intelligence.this is a reasonable question.if u did how are they not fitting right?wat are they doing not to fit right?are they leaning to one side?not going in?

if i have the block off plate in place y r u asking what to do with the second hole?thats what one of the bop do.

hey bacon,what can u make?anything?can u make a simple inline type of manifold(like a box with seperate runners jg edelborck makes for honda)for a 20b and put injector holes where i need them?if so how much?

rxrotary2_7

the injector is to small around the bottom to fit correctly. it seems as if the O-ring that comes on them is way to big if air difuser if still in place, but way to small when taken out.
i was kinda asking if anyone had a prefrence for a particular one for any reason...actualy, i dont know why i asked...

not to offend Bacon, but if he can not make it, i have someone who can. just do the leg work of what exactly you want, and he can do it. but he is very busy so it is not gong to be done in a short period of time.

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

no offense taken kieth,im dropping your oil return block off plate @ jims later today...

as fas as a breadbox manifold....yea i could make one...CAN i??..no i dont have the shop/ tools/ materials redialy avable...put it this way for the headache of me getting everythgin together youd be better off going with kieths man...plus i have abt 6billion projects going right now

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

grr im a retart ill drop it off tomorow

rxrotary2_7

thanks Len, you are the man

BTW...i got a flying lead harness and i am redoing my haltech instal i should have in the first place.

Kurgan

On my 20B, I had to make injector grommets for the primary injectors to fit the block... as far as I know, its the same housings as your re block. The grommets are not available stateside unless you get them through mazdacomp.

The secondary injectors are in a custom fuel rail as well, but they use the standard 13brew injector grommets. I would order those from mazda... they are two pieces per injector (not counting the o ring that comes on all injectors)

I made the injector grommets out of fuel line... just cut it long enough to fit over the end of the injector and secure it into the block.

rxrotary2_7

interesting...thanks

streetraceseven

i am almost done with mine next week it should be on the road.... www.richsrotary.com

rxrotary2_7

Len, you may know the answer to this one. what is the thread size and pitch for the oil injectors? did your primary rail fit after modifying it like we did? my oil injectors seem to be in the way and since i am not using it anyway, just wondering if you or anyone else has blocked them also?

MOSTIN

Can you tell what connectors or sensors are still used in a single turbo set up before i start to cut mines?

let me start the list:
Injector connector
fuel regulator solenoid
oil injector harness
water temp sensor

please help me finish my list

MOSTIN

Can some one tell what connectors or sensors are still used in a single turbo set up before i start to cut mines?

let me start the list:
Injector connector
fuel regulator solenoid
oil injector harness
water temp sensor

please help me finish my list

rxrotary2_7

it depends on what sensors you are going to use.

i used GM:
-air temp
-water temp
-MAP
-O2

from stock i used
-TPS
-2 of the stock injectors

i think thats it.
you no longer need your oil injectors as the e6k can not controll it.

I have one question...what wire (in engine bay) next to the fan relays did anyone use for one of their PWM's?
BTW len, i figured out the threads on oil injectors. i was just being lazy again and felt like asking on here instead of actualy taking them ALL the way out.

MOSTIN

Sorry for the double threads

For the oil injectors I am using a PFS PMS which is a piggy back of the stock ECU

how about the vacuum lines that goes to the oil injectors do we still need them?