when should a T66 with a .96A/R spool?
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when should a T66 with a .96A/R spool?
My car(89 turbo t2, ported motor)has/had a T66 with an undivided .96 tangential a/r. when should it hit full boost?
the motor ended up throwing in the towel at about 3k.(unknown reason, smoke coming from oil)
the builder says i revved it too high. Is 8500 too high for a "built" 13b?
the motor ended up throwing in the towel at about 3k.(unknown reason, smoke coming from oil)
the builder says i revved it too high. Is 8500 too high for a "built" 13b?
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Re: when should a T66 with a .96A/R spool?
Originally posted by 4cefed7
. Is 8500 too high for a "built" 13b?
. Is 8500 too high for a "built" 13b?
8500 is just perfect. I dont understand why you keep having engine problems. Its begining to even irratate me now
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I was thinking about your car the other day I thought of something... You keep blowing engines, but you've changed out everything except your primary injectors and your ignition... I wonder if there is something wrong with either of those... if anything, I would suspect the primary injectors of spurradic failure leading to a lean condition and resulting in TICK TICK BOOM!
just a thought...
just a thought...
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supposedly the injectors(both sets) were cleaned. the ignition has been upgraded to an msd 6a on the leading coil(which has also been replaced). the plugs were thought to be a problem, so i used NGK 11.5's ,NGK 9's. and HKS Irridium 12's with no luck.
That is why, after 7 years, im just moving on no more rotary for me. i love to drive the car, but not only 2 months a year.
That is why, after 7 years, im just moving on no more rotary for me. i love to drive the car, but not only 2 months a year.
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#8
Laying Down Rotary Law
seems to me your having tuning issues
maybe your timing stays to advanced when hitting high rpm/boost
I would switch to 720 prim's
there's too much of a leap from 550 to 1600
maybe your timing stays to advanced when hitting high rpm/boost
I would switch to 720 prim's
there's too much of a leap from 550 to 1600
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thats just it tuning. i left my car in Texas till the builder felt it was done. I had problems with the last motor he built(tuning wise) which led to its demise at 3k. So he put it back together for free, but wanted to keep it till he tuned it and worked out all the bugs.
well my car is sitting in the garage torn down because it broke again. this motor lasted about the same time(3k). When i told the builder what it was doing(smoke coming from the oil, spitting oil out the exhaust, hard to start, no power, backfiring, etc.) he said it could have had eccentric shaft walk from me overevving it(ignition cut it set at 8500rpm,been that way since the Haltech was installed) causing the rotor to contact the housing, cracking it. he also said it could be other things(side seal, oil seal, o ring faliure)
so in the end i have a boken car that sat in Texas for 6 months till it was tuned right. that wasnt tuned for ****. to let you know how well it was ruinning it ran a 9.0@85mph in the 1/8.
which is really good for a car with a T66 on it
well my car is sitting in the garage torn down because it broke again. this motor lasted about the same time(3k). When i told the builder what it was doing(smoke coming from the oil, spitting oil out the exhaust, hard to start, no power, backfiring, etc.) he said it could have had eccentric shaft walk from me overevving it(ignition cut it set at 8500rpm,been that way since the Haltech was installed) causing the rotor to contact the housing, cracking it. he also said it could be other things(side seal, oil seal, o ring faliure)
so in the end i have a boken car that sat in Texas for 6 months till it was tuned right. that wasnt tuned for ****. to let you know how well it was ruinning it ran a 9.0@85mph in the 1/8.
which is really good for a car with a T66 on it
#10
BS.
If that motor was built and tuned properly it would last more than 3K miles!
Probably instead of getting rid of the car you should get rid of the builder!
crispeed
If that motor was built and tuned properly it would last more than 3K miles!
Probably instead of getting rid of the car you should get rid of the builder!
crispeed
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hmm i saw your car befor it left texas. the thing was tuned great. it was even tuned with safety margin so it would not blow up. when you picked the car up I was told you were more than satisfied with how it was running? And I thought you spun the motor a little higher than just 8500? you are the only person i have seen having all these problems. I think there is something else playing into your problems other than tuning? it was tuned with a wideband and someone who knows how to tune cars.
The motor builder knows what he is doing and I would not go to anyone else. but thats just baised on my exper with him and what i have seen him do. I have not ever had any problems a motor from him, along with a lot of other friends.
I feel bad you have had so much trouble with your car, good luck with what ever you do from here.
The motor builder knows what he is doing and I would not go to anyone else. but thats just baised on my exper with him and what i have seen him do. I have not ever had any problems a motor from him, along with a lot of other friends.
I feel bad you have had so much trouble with your car, good luck with what ever you do from here.
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well i was spinning it to what the Haltechs rev limiter was set at.
The builder said that it should only be wound out to 7500(after it blew up)
I had detonation by the time i hit texarkana. an i/c hose was loose, which i was told would cause it to not be tuned properly.
If i kept the car i would like crispeed to do the tuning.
the builder in question never could get my car tuned right, well it ran good till it startred detonating. He has not had really anything to do with it since it popped this last time.
The builder said that it should only be wound out to 7500(after it blew up)
I had detonation by the time i hit texarkana. an i/c hose was loose, which i was told would cause it to not be tuned properly.
If i kept the car i would like crispeed to do the tuning.
the builder in question never could get my car tuned right, well it ran good till it startred detonating. He has not had really anything to do with it since it popped this last time.
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detonation by the time you hit texarkana? was this comin from RP or marvel? lil side not.........i used to live in texarkana. nice lil hole in the wall isnt it.
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Mods:
* Ported motor (Marvelspeed)
* 3 mm apex seals
* Haltech E6k
* MSD 6A
* HKS Iridium plugs (coldest heat range)
* T-66, .96 a/r turbine housing, P-trim
* Greddy: Front mount intercooler
* Power Extreme Exhaust
* Boost and EGT gauges
* Apexi: AVC-R, blow off valve
* HKS: exhaust manifold and wastegate
* Bonez: Air filter
* 1600cc secondary injectors
* Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
* Rotary Performance: competition fuel pump, 3" exhaust (turbo to y pipe)
* Ground control coil overs (Tokico illumina, eibach springs (300lbs. fr, 250lbs. r)
* Suspension Techniques: fr & r sway bars, front strut bar
* Cusco carbon fiber rear strut bar
* Stillen: cross drilled fr & r rotors, pads
* Goodrich stainless steel brake lines
* ACT: 6 puck clutch, street strip pressure plate
* SR Motorsports 9lb. aluminum flywheel
* Wheels: Volk Racing TE37 17x7.5 fr, 17x8.5 r
* Tires: Yokohama AVS Sports 215/45 fr, 255/40 rear
* Japanese spec flash to pass lenses
* Ported motor (Marvelspeed)
* 3 mm apex seals
* Haltech E6k
* MSD 6A
* HKS Iridium plugs (coldest heat range)
* T-66, .96 a/r turbine housing, P-trim
* Greddy: Front mount intercooler
* Power Extreme Exhaust
* Boost and EGT gauges
* Apexi: AVC-R, blow off valve
* HKS: exhaust manifold and wastegate
* Bonez: Air filter
* 1600cc secondary injectors
* Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
* Rotary Performance: competition fuel pump, 3" exhaust (turbo to y pipe)
* Ground control coil overs (Tokico illumina, eibach springs (300lbs. fr, 250lbs. r)
* Suspension Techniques: fr & r sway bars, front strut bar
* Cusco carbon fiber rear strut bar
* Stillen: cross drilled fr & r rotors, pads
* Goodrich stainless steel brake lines
* ACT: 6 puck clutch, street strip pressure plate
* SR Motorsports 9lb. aluminum flywheel
* Wheels: Volk Racing TE37 17x7.5 fr, 17x8.5 r
* Tires: Yokohama AVS Sports 215/45 fr, 255/40 rear
* Japanese spec flash to pass lenses
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