I know this. I never said you suggested it was aftermarket. I’m aware it may be a oem truck turbo from borg Warner too. I really like borg Warner turbos. I feel as if they are just built sturdier

 

just got more information. They said t4 80-90 something at least 1.0 ar for the hot side and cold side appears to be a 67

 

By the looks of the windshield wipers and front end, I'm gonna say that the P.O. didn't exactly buy the best for his FD and that turbo came from eBay.

 

very likely. If it’s really unacceptable I will plan to change out the setup.
windshield wipers I need to take the paint off. The front bumper is the aftermarket super flexible type 99 spec shaved bumper. I’d like to sell it actually. I have a oem 99 spec bumper. And the hood is supposed to be genuine re amemnia. It has a plaque under. I’m going to see it in a few days. I’ll take some pictures

 

I could be out in left field but that looks like a chineesium TO4Z 53 600 RWHP Supra/RX-7 and other engines special that you get on fleabay. Or it could be an old BW or Garrett diesel truck turbo.. hard to tell with the photos my friend.

 

ok. Well none of that matters anymore. Motors blow after getting tuned about 20 miles after. Said seems like the plate. Going new turbo system or back to twin turbo. And either replacing plate or just getting a whole new motor or a swap. And when I say swap like a k20 swap. And if possible a fa20dit or ej

also have this manifold so trying to see my options

 

Good luck fitting a boxer engine.

Is there another rotary tuner you can use?

 

lmao. Ok so boxers engine won’t fit. Would have been a great idea if it did. Lower cog kinda like the rotary. But if that’s the case I think my last hope for keeping a fd rx7 is a k24 or k20 swap

 

Why not just run a rotary, but don't be cheap/stupid about it?

You started with a car that clearly had corners cut. Do it correctly first then decide it needs an engine swap.

Or just go ahead and sell it.

 

running a k24/20 isn’t being stupid. It’s your opinion that the rotary is a good engine. I won’t be selling this car. Why should I do it “correctly” then decide to swap it. A rebuild will cost at least 4-6k. Are you telling me to burn that money so I can see if it work and if it doesn’t then spend 15-20k for the k24/20

ive already been to a rotary shop. Spent money on getting it back to omp and tuning when I initially wanted a swap cause I was afraid of rotaries. Well it got done. I drove it 20 miles and now top compression is 0 and bottom is 60. Stuck apex seal fixed before tune. And now stuck again or is it blow. How much money should I dump into this trying to get it working. How many times must I tow it? I’m sorry you don’t like the idea of a swap. But it’s my fd rx7 and I’m gonna do what I want or can do. I’m asking for advice and knowledge of anyone that can help. I’m not asking if I should sell cause you dislike someone swapping out the rotary.

the thing is. A rotary rebuild or crate motor is still on the table

 

K20 swap will cost a lot more than a rebuild

 

Read what I wrote again. I didn't say the engine swap was "being stupid," I said not to be cheap/stupid and cut corners on getting the rotary up and running.

A good engine harness, heat management, turbo/fuel setup, and ECU/sensors then tuning for reliability (not the max/last half-hp) is what I was referring to.

If your engine **** itself on the way home from the tuning session then something was seriously wrong. Either your support systems and general car health is/was ****, the tuner went WAAAYYY too aggressive for your setup, or you were being a ******* idiot on the drive and pushing when you shouldn't have. Regardless, I'd be talking with that shop about wtf went wrong, exactly, and what steps they can take to help correct the situation. If it were my car and I knew that it had cheap/**** parts in it, I'd have asked for the tune to get max-best-torque then back off a degree or two, that way it would be safe and reliable until I could replace/fortify the trash components, but that's just my opinion..

You say you went to a "rotary shop".. is that a known reputable shop with a quality reputation, or just some popup that claimed expertise?


At the end of the day it doesn't matter to me what you do with your car, your decisions won't effect me one way or another. There is something special about a healthy rotary though, my suggestion is just to experience that before you decide it isn't right for you.

 

1st, you don't know how to identify a turbo and post up a random thread with no info for others to help you. I don't think a swap is something you should consider.

2nd, you think there is a top and bottom rotor based on your comment about low compression on your engine. Again, I don't think a swap is for you.

3rd, mentioning a boxer engine swap, again, a swap is not for you.

Sell the car to someone that knows what they are doing and buy a mustang, don't try to mod it.

 

can’t believe he sucked you guys in for Round 2 …
.

 

amazing.
so people need to fit a certain mindset to want a motor swap. Buy a mustang? Why. Top and bottom rotor. I didn’t mean that. Did I say that. Well I guess everything shows I’m just clueless about rotaries. So a motor swap is for me. I really do like the sound of a rotary. I just can’t deal with the uncertainty and going the best route for me. Sorry you can’t deal with that.

 

regardless. You suggesting doing a full rotary build then decide if I want a motor swap is really illogical. Of course I should do the swap if my motors blown anyway. You don’t fix it just to see if you want to swap it. That’s paying twice. A new motor is 6k. I have it listed for 5.5k. Turbo kit another 5k if I go haltec 1500. That’s another 2.5k. Then tuning. Anyway I’m really sorry you dont like my kswap build.

 

The swap is stupid. At least put a good engine in if you are swapping. Not a 4 cylinder fart mobile.

 

what engine do you suggest beside rotary. I won’t go ls swap. That’s for certain.

 

if your going to insist on inane commentary, at least have the courtesy to do it in the proper forum area

https://www.rx7club.com/other-engine...s-non-v-8-118/

.

 

true. Sure I will. But insanity is keeping the rotary engine when it’s known to blow and also an inferior design of a engine. Simpler yes.