My last race of the year, we went through and found a bunch of vacume leaks in my FD that we did not know about since my boost was reading only 17lbs vs 19lbs. Somehow my trap speeds dropped from 117 to 108. Could it be the tune if it was originally tuned with the vacume leaks?

Anyways....after a couple of runs, my car stalled at the end of the run and would not start. I thought I blew the engine for sure. Now I can barely get it started but it will die once it idles. We did a compression test and the motor has 3 even burst.

Someone told me it sounded like the GM 3 bar map sensor went out. If the map sensor went out would the car act this way? He said a big back fire could cause the map sensor to go out which sounded rediculous. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Well I guess one way to find out is to hook up the laptop and see what the map sensor is doing.

 

That's the other problem....my laptop is broke so I can't even load my map with the stock 2 bar map sensor. I guess I can go buy a new map sensor and try it but just wanted to see if anyone has ran into this problem.

 

Are you running a pfc? check to see your peak boost.

I had problems with my 3 bar when I first installed it---I used the crimp-fit connector provided. I would be cruising down the road and the car would just die. Upon inspection of my commander, it read something like 2.13 kg/cm^2! Pop the hood, wiggle the three 3-bar wires, and the car would start up, showing normal vacuum readings.

The car was basically shutting down from all the spontaneous fuel injected. I ordered the proper pigtail connector from horsepowerfreaks (which allowed me to solder the connection) and havent had a problem since.

 

That's what my car did when we tried to start it with the map sensor unplugged. Make sure you have the right voltage setting for the map sensor, and that it's fully plugged in. Mine was like 1/3 unplugged and caused a whole bunch of problems.