FD3S-K

iTrader: (6)

Ok so I'm driving, and my boost controller is set at 1.05bar=15psi.
I boost the car starts to hesitate quite a bit, then loses power slowly,
i down shift, still losing power. then it dies.

There is spark.
There is fuel.
The engine will crank.

Oil and water temps were fine, boost was fine.

Now the car wont start, even with bomb starting it.

This is my setup:

Engine:
Blitz SBC I-Color
PLX R-500 Datalogit, and Wideband
Exedy Twin Plate Clutch
Exedy Light Weight Flywheel
2 Way L.S.D.
GT35R .70
T4 Manifold
44MM WG TIAL
50MM BOV TIAL
HKS Twin Power and Harness
Megan Racing Midpipe
3in RX-7 Store Downpipe
Apex'i N1 Exhaust
Trust/Greddy 3Row Intercooler W/ Elbow
Racing Rad and Fans
KG Parts Primary Fuel Rail
KG Parts Secondary Fuel Rail
850cc Injectors x2 (Primary)
1600cc injectors x2 (Secondary)
Aeromotive FPR
Greddy Pulley Set
Battery In Hatch
Greddy Catch Can
Greddy Turbo timer
2x Walboro 255lph Fuel Pumps
Microtech LT8s
Solid engine, and diff mounts.

I am freaking out!, please help me out.

Thanks


If you need other info that may help to determine the problem let me know

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

wrong section but have you tried a compression test?

justturbo2

iTrader: (4)

+2

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

i second that. start by checking the compression. can you retrieve data from the time this took place and post it?

FD3S-K

iTrader: (6)

I didnt have it logged

Whats the best way to check for compression, dont you just remove the plugs and feel the air comming from the housings?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

bomb starting?

What gear and rpm did it start to hesitate in? that's not a good sign at all.

When was the last time you changed your fuel filter? Was it a fresh tank of gas?

Best way to check compression is with a rotary compression tester, but those are hard to come by. Check here: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html

FD3S-K

iTrader: (6)

where you push the car then let go of the clutch in gear. but that did no good.

fuel filter is brand new, getting full pressure, afr was right on the dot, and yeah full fresh tank of gas.

It hesitated in third around 4k rpm.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Sounds like right after full boost hit. Go back and check your receipt and verify the octane that was put in the tank. It's a long shot, but it could be you got a bad tank of gas. It happened to me back in 2001.

FD3S-K

iTrader: (6)

hmm, it says 94 octane, and thats what i always put in.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

plug temp/age?

FD3S-K

iTrader: (6)

age is around 250 miles, temp are 10's.




the car is doing a gallop sound. so i guess the seal is gone

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Mine blew with 93 octane on the receipt. Back then Dave at KDR drained the tank and told me the fuel looked bad. **** happens, in my case I figured the fuel truck filled the tanks in the wrong order, so 87 and 93 were mixed up. Another reason why I love my Aquamist water injection setup, saves you from stuff like this.

I hope I'm wrong, but it's the only thing I can think of. Really sucks to be in this situation, I feel your pain

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Sounds like your engine blew. Who built your engine and what were the state of the fuel injectors upon installation? All the supporting mods aren't going to help if one of your injectors fail. If you don't have a compression tester, all you have to do is pull both lower plugs, disconnect all the upper plug wires, and crank the engine over while listening for even pulses through the spark plug holes. Any variations indicates loose of compression.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

gallop? no good. Oh well join the club, I'm rebuilding right now engine 2 in 1700kms. One lasted 300kms and chucked a seal (bad rotor groove clearance), this one went 1400kms and chucked a seal (20 psi boost spike while tuning).

Third time's the charm

FD3S-K

iTrader: (6)

Yeah its been sitting a year just being slowly put back together, just got the car back a week.

He doesn't warranty, so I'm fucked in that sense. I hate living in a smaller city.

I think ill have to go bridge port, and dowel it.

What are some other options as for engines and stuff?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Well, you dont need to go bridgeport, nor do you need to dowel it. It just needs to be properly built, installed, and tuned.

You need to figure out why it blew, or you're doomed to repeat the cycle.......

FD3S-K

iTrader: (6)

Yeah well my take on it is it leaned out, from the fuel filter. Either than that im not sure, but i will make sure what the culprit was. I talked to the owner and think i will go with a semi-large street port, and not dowel it, since my aim is 400 rear wheel hp.

He is saying around $3000. To rebuild with new seals. And $400 for the street port.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Why would it lean out from a brand new fuel filter? that doesnt make sense.

For that price I hope he's including the engine removal and reinstall.

FD3S-K

iTrader: (6)

Well yeah, not sure he says it could've been old debris from the fuel tank, but i just think hes covering his ***, not sure. But yeah that price includes removal and install.

What kind of seals should i go with? 3mm? or 2mm? and what extra things do you think i should do or improve since the engine will be out.

GoodfellaFD3S. i love you input, your a great asset to this site.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Why would you bring it back to him if you suspect something in the first place? I would take it to a reputable place around you and have them build and tune it.

FD3S-K

iTrader: (6)

I never said i'd take it back, and im not im trying a shop up here (well 4 hours away) called staff's auto, its a way smaller shop, hopefully would pay more attention to my car and he offers coverage on the work he does.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Thanks man, I'm here to help

Nothing wrong with sticking with 2mm mazda oem seals. I've heard great things about the NRS seals, but have no firsthand experience with them. I'd recommend spending the money on a nice water injection system vs blowing it on unneeded internal upgrades, on a street car at least.

FD3S-K

iTrader: (6)

How exactly does the injection system work? Im not to familiar with it. Im assuming NRS are the ceramic seals?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

I have my aquamist 1s system setup to inject windshield wiper fluid (which is simply water and alchohol with a little coolant) into my greddy elbow at anything above 10 psi. It uses the stock w/w tank as a reservoir, it's a nice tidy install. More info here:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=aquamist+pics

Yes, the NRS ceramics.

G's 3rd Gen

iTrader: (11)

What color is the light on the microtech when you are cranking? Should be a steady blinking yellow.