t-von

iTrader: (8)

Not necessarily. You have to take into account that the average person driving their car will fit off the throttle in the event they feel something is wrong. In my stock car that 1/2" hose disconnected (near the map sensor) and I wasn't able to make hardly any boost. If you loose only 5-10psi with the electronic valve, all your doing is making the engine run rich which helps keep it from running lean. Plus I've also driven my car around with the turbo outlet disconnected on several occasions to see it's performance in NA mode. Turbo's don't just simply burn up that fast is they over spool. You have to have specific amounts of load from the engine to drive the turbine to make that happen. Without the added boost from the turbo, you have less energy being provided to the cumbustion chamber and therefore less exhaust energy. This is why you never get full boost from the turbo my simply just reving the engine in neutral. Mine have over 100k on them and don't leak oil or smoke. In my set-up the electronic blow-off valve opens, you will feel the instant power loss and pressure drop. Anyone with any since would lift the throttle therefore saving any possible turbo over spool. Think of it as the negative surge you get during fuel starvation. Also my system would be set at 40psi water pressure warning level. That's still enough pressure and water will continue to spray into the engine until the boost pressure lowers below your set WI activation pressure.



Regulator isn't needed. The pump itself keeps the system fully pressurized at 100psi at all times. The accumulator does all the work. I designed it this way so that the pump doesn't always have to kick on everytime I need water injected. Plus you have instant WI without having to wait for the pump to pressure up. Having the pump kick on and off eveytime you need water just puts more wear and tear on the pump itself and it's internal pressure regulator.



Obviously you can't please everyone. As I said earlier my set-up has been working reliably for over a 1yr and 1/2.


You are misunderstanding my set-up. I have two solenoids. At 100psi, if both are activated, each solenoid is only getting 50psi each. The regulator would be put in the divided line and not the main line for quicker response. You would always see 100psi with the system not opening but as soon as both solenoid opens, the pressure would quicky lower to 50psi between the two. Then once you get to 40psi the fail safe kicks in. So the reality is it would only be a 10psi drop before the fail safe kicked in. There are guys driving there cars right now with no filters on there turbo inlets. It would be really hard for something to fly up into that small 1/2-3/4" blow off valve discharge hole. Now as far as an aggressive tune, simple solution never tune to the extreme. You should always leave yourself some lea-way just like Mazda did by tuning to such a rich A/F ratio. Also some water spraying is better than none at all. I've had my pump completely run dry but there was still pressurized water in between the accumulator and solenoids which keeps the system operational. Sure the system looses pressure, the flow will also decrease some but not much. I activated my system with the pump disconnected and watched the water spray for over 1min with good amounts of flow and spray. Anyway you look at it, that cheap insurance.

sdminus

????????? Also how do people feel about multiple nozzles. Since reding this i have altererd my ideas about the ratio of water. I have seen ratios of 20% banded about by RICE from time to time but i have seen the mention of 25% on this thread. For more effective charge cooling why not just add an extra chemical ie methanol or as Bill has said on numerious occations a third acetone !!! I still believe pre turbo is the way but i am still struggling with the facts. Where is Rice when you need him

Scott

bill Shurvinton

The ratio depends on a lot of factors, so the easiest way is to work out how much you are leaning off the fuel and replace that will water. So if you are going from 11:1 to 13:1 that is a 20% enleanment which you replace with water.

The reality is more complex, but as a rule of thumb it works fine. Or you can play with the turbo calculator on not2fast and see the first order changes to inlet temperature.

If you ever get over my way buy me a pint and I can go through all the calculations :-)

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Now I see were all the confusion is comming from. dubulup I now understand what you were saying about the "regulator". What I really mean is I will use a fuel pressure "sender" to moniter the water pressure. Not a "regulator"! Sorry guys. The sender would send the pressure signal to my digital gauge and the gauge would activate and send the ground signal to the electronic blow off valve at 40psi and below venting boost pressure. I hope that's a much more clear explanation.